Protecting your TT from theft?

[NITEHAWK]

#1) Get two matching brake drums (without the studs) that match your existing trailer brake drums.
#2) Block up one side enough so you can remove the wheels and then put them in the trailer--covered up so not visible thru a window,
#3) Install "blank" brake drums.

Granted, this takes a bit of time and work, but thieves don't want to risk the time and they definitely aren't hard working.

[Seon]

I had a trailer that the brake drums didn't have lugs studs but rather lug bolts. Easy enough to just change drums to those drums. That would certainly slow the thieves down.

[Fiesta48]

"Out of slight is out of mind" My C class is very hard to see in the back yard. "If they steal it I get a new one"

[Capttjl]

Originally Posted by Souljourner

Can you share more specifics about the particular system you used?

Thank you to the many who responded. I’ve been reading all the suggestions voraciously and have been presented with ideas I hadn’t considered before. Even though my unit is well insured and it’s far from the most expensive unit out there, I’m attached to it, have it fixed up the way I like it, I use it regularly, and it would be hard to replace due to demand even with a healthy insurance settlement.

I’ve come to the conclusion that a decent protection device will stop the opportunist in a camping situation, but that the storage facilities are another issue. I like the idea of removing at least one of the tires, as well as using a tracking device that sends an alert if there’s activity. Perhaps overkill and paranoid to some, but I’m reminded if the ancient proverb, “Trust in God but tie up your camel.”

Does anyone have a recommendation for such a device? What powers such a device?

Also - what does anyone think about the security value of this heavy duty lock, link posted below?

If I wanted a lock in addition to any other deterrents, is there anything better?

AMPLOCK U-BRP2 Boat Trailer, Trailer and RV Coupler Lock fits Specific 2 inches Coupler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NUNFGI0...YDHFAMXGM2RCH0

“The Most Reliable and Durable Lock On Market
Mass of material of 10 pounds heavy that slows down all cutting type attempts
Material absorbs shock instead of breaking, the lock will fold/bump after impact
Resist to torch cut and liquid nitrogen
Better corrosion resistance”

Heres the info on the track4 I have 4 of these one is a 5 volt that is charged via USB it has many variations of notification from 1 hour to once a day and every 10 min if moving. its in my tool bag I charge every 3 months or so. The Motorcoach and Boat and backhoe all have the 12 volt version and report oce a day or every 10 min when moving. All report upon entering or leaving a geo zone set up by me. the 12 V ones are wired to the a source that allows charging when power is on I the bath fan circuit or. The boat in the storage lot is directly wired to on battery with a small fuse it reported from 03/20 thur 01 of 21. I see the boat again changed spots the storage lot in the keys again on Friday. As some folks returned from following ELSA. In the past the Track4 has been helpful in keeping an eye on things such as when the Boat is in transit by the U ship folks. https://www.amazon.com/Trak-4-Mobile...a-783950193559

[Cumminsfan]

Originally Posted by Fiesta48

"Out of slight is out of mind" My C class is very hard to see in the back yard. "If they steal it I get a new one"

x2. Beats having to list it on Craigslist or RV Trader

[LargeMarge]

About 1995, I converted a sixteen-foot heavy-truck utility-bed service-body frame to an enclosed camper-trailer.
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For the bumper-pull hitch on the trailer, I fabricated a captive sliding tube of the same two-inch thick-wall steel used for the rear receiver hitch on most bumper-pull pick-up trucks and vans in the three-quarter ton and stouter ratings.
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Picture the 'V' of the two frame rails at the front of a trailer.
They meet at the 'tow' end of the travel-trailer.
Usually, welded to them is the triangular combo bracket for the ball capture and the landing gear.
I thought that standardized contraption was too easy to attach to a standardized hitch on the back of any suitable-sized vehicle... and grow legs without my consent.
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Instead, I fabricated a receiver on the front of my trailer identical to the receiver on the rear of my towing truck.
Instead of a traditional two-inch ball at the rear of my truck, I fabricated a pintle hitch rated someplace in the neighborhood of fifteen ton.
(Of course, as we all know, that number far exceeds the tow-capacity of a Class 3 truck such as a Dodge 3500.)
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At the front of my trailer, instead of the traditional ball capture and landing-gear triangle, I used thick-wall square tube the next size up from two-inch square tube.
The i.d. (inner dimension of the larger tube) matched the o.d. (outer dimension of the two-inch tube), allowing a slidable extendable removable hitch on the trailer.
This way, my ring (matched to the pintle hitch) can be slid in and held in-place with a standard hitch-pin.
Away from camp, I removed the hitch-pin, and slid out the ring on its two-inch tube.
Another two-inch tube -- blanked so nothing could be inserted -- was locked in the tube.
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I got the idea on a trip through Baja.
Beach launching of small boats on trailers often requires the tow vehicle to be in the surf zone.
Some folks whacked off the standard triangle on the front of the boat-trailer, and replaced it with the tube-in-a-tube.
Using a much longer inside tube -- a standard two-inch thick-wall -- boaters could extend the inner tube out several feet so the truck avoided a salty soak.
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Although I have no photographs of my rig, this is a similar concept.
On mine, for stability, I added a cross-member a couple feet aft of the ring.
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https://compactcampingstore.com/prod...31612144058455