Community Forums

Tomahawk · 06-13-2021, 05:49 PM

I just got back from a week trip to Sequoia. The weather was cool in the day and cold at night. Got down to mid 30s on 3 of the nights, we had the heater set on the lowest setting, I am guessing about 48F all nights. I had two odd issues.

The toilet first (Dometic 310). On the 2 coldest nights (Tues/Wed) a small pool of water formed at the base of the toilet. I am 99% sure it was water and not waste as it was clear and did not have a detectable odor. I touched the valve assembly and supply line and there was a drip of water on the supply line were the PEX connects to the adapter. All other nights everything was dry. There is no chance someone missed. This seems like it will be difficult to debug as it is very intermittent.

Refrigerator issue (Dometic DM2652LBX) . On the last 2 days (warmest day at about 65) I saw a drip of water on the tire. I looked above and could see a drip forming where the wheel well plastic meets the floor. This right below the fridge. No water was coming out of the condensation line. I am guessing the condensation collection system was not performing correctly but I am not familiar with how that works and what might make it not work. There were no drips with the fridge running on 110V in my driveway for 5 days before our trip (my wife packs early) and no drips for the first 4 days of our trip on Propane. There are no drips currently in my driveway. One thing of note here is, when I first got the TT the condensation drain was inside the access area. I found this because the fridge was not working on 110V the day I brought it home. When I looked into it, the fuse was blown and the area looked like it had been wet at some point. I moved the condensation drain outside and everything has worked well for the last 4 years. Again, this seem like it will be hard to find as it doesn't do it all the time. I guess to be fair, it could be from somewhere else, like heater condensation, but that is a little farther away.

Thanks for any input.

Old-Biscuit · 06-13-2021, 06:19 PM

Cold temps...change in Toilet Supply line PEX Crimp...little leak
Keep an eye on it...lay a couple sheets TP under/around valve. If wet/still leaking

Fridge....Drip tray drain lines are CHEAP JUNK
they get brittle and crack....and usually up high where you can't reach w/o pulling fridge out a few inches

Dometic drain lines are installed so they stick thru the lower vent cover and should have a 'check plug' in the end of hose

tuffr2 · 06-13-2021, 07:50 PM

My refrigerator has a hard plastic shelf that I have to make sure it is pushed fully back. Else water drips places it should not drip.

Tomahawk · 06-13-2021, 08:03 PM

Thanks.

The TT won't be used for a few months so the toilet lines won't be under pressure until then. I will try TP trick once I pressurize everything. Based on where the drip was I think it is from one of the adapters or the line above the valve (no sustained pressure).

I took the fridge access off and a couple of ounces of water came rushing out of the drain tube. There is no check plug in my line, unless it is all the way up where the drip tray is located. After the water came out, I fished a wire up the drain tube to check for obstructions. Seemed okay and no more water came out. I rerouted the drain line to straighter and exit lower on the access panel. The line goes so far up I can't imagine replacing the drip tray without completely removing the fridge. I am 6'2" and I don't think my arms are long enough to reach to where the drain tube ends. I hope it is not that. The access area for the fridge hasn't been wet, everything in there is dusty. I opened all the access doors inside (under fridge and two under sink) and there is no evidence of water in any of them. I also inspected the heater as best I could and saw no evidence of water. This might also have to wait until I see it again and then tear things apart.

Another mystery came up as I was looking around in the access panels. Where the water pump is located, on the output side, there is a tee with three valves attached. The valve on one leg of the tee is closed and connected to a hose that goes nowhere. It is about 10" and free at the other end. Seems like a horrible idea. Only thing I can think of is you can use it to prime the pump if necessary.

Tomahawk · 06-13-2021, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuffr2

My refrigerator has a hard plastic shelf that I have to make sure it is pushed fully back. Else water drips places it should not drip.

Do you mean a shelf accessed from inside the fridge or something outside? I will check that all closely as soon as I get a minute.

dustyone · 06-13-2021, 11:19 PM

Another mystery came up as I was looking around in the access panels. Where the water pump is located, on the output side, there is a tee with three valves attached. The valve on one leg of the tee is closed and connected to a hose that goes nowhere. It is about 10" and free at the other end. Seems like a horrible idea. Only thing I can think of is you can use it to prime the pump if necessary.

That line is for winterizing. You put that line in an antifreeze jug open valve then open each faucet till the pink comes out. Make sure you drain water tank and water heater tank first. And turn valves to isolate w/h.

Tomahawk · 06-14-2021, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dustyone

That line is for winterizing. You put that line in an antifreeze jug open valve then open each faucet till the pink comes out. Make sure you drain water tank and water heater tank first. And turn valves to isolate w/h.

Okay I see it now (I think). It is really on the input side of the pump, so to winterize I'd Isolate the tank by closing the first valve then put the tube in the jug and run the pump to flow the "pink stuff" through the system. Is the isolation of the hot water heater to protect it or to limit the amount of "pink stuff". So Cal so no need to winterize, just curious.

Thanks for the info.

garywilson · 06-14-2021, 01:30 AM

Isolating the WH is because it is easy to drain the WH and no point in using up the pink stuff.

To original post... if you think the leak on the toilet was at the Pex crimp, sometimes they didn't get it quite tight enough. One of mine was just leaking a few drops every week or so. Tightened with Pex crimpers, no more leak.

I used the blue 'shop' paper towels to confirm no more leak. Even after they dry you can tell it had been wet.

Ref refrigerator drain tube. Mine has a plastic plug fitting with tiny holes at the end to keep insects or trash out. If yours doesn't, it might be worthwhile to replace the plug (amazon) or zip-tie a piece of screen on it and check it for blockage once in a while.

tuffr2 · 06-14-2021, 05:08 AM

I mean the cheap hard plastic tray inside the refrigerator. Mine feeds the drain tube that goes outside so it needs to line up meaning the tray needs to be fully back. When mine was not set properly I just had drops of water inside my refrigerator.

bddadles · 06-14-2021, 05:58 AM

Another possibility for the toilet drip I'll throw out. Mine is a Thetford and I had a leak from the Vacuum breaker (I think it is called). It was the original and looked real crusty. I appears it only allow a small amount to leak out the top and only when the toilet was flushed. It was not expensive or hard to replace but I did have to pull out the toilet.

SKP Kirk · 06-14-2021, 09:53 AM

Quote:

I will try TP trick once I pressurize everything. Based on where the drip was I think it is from one of the adapters or the line above the valve (no sustained pressure).

You may want to tighten the water connection to the toilet just a little before you turn the water back on. Things often loosen from the vibrations of traveling over roads, especially rough ones. I have seen that happen many times in our years of RV travels.