Community Forums

gmacecsko · 09-05-2017, 06:51 PM

In preparation for our first real trip . I turned the refrigerator on 2 days in advance. The night before we left I unplugged and switched to LP. I made sure it was running and cold. After 340 miles we arrived at our stop for the night and the refrigerator temperature was 54 degrees. I plugged in and the display flashed from 54to L.P.. I had to turn it off and back on then it seemed to be working again. I do not understand why it did not stay cold. I confirmed that there was propane and both bottles are turned on. Any thoughts on what may have happened?

twinboat · 09-05-2017, 07:02 PM

Did you have the battery switch on ?

Are the batteries charged ?

The fridge control circuits need 12 volts to run.

jimmerz · 09-05-2017, 07:13 PM

I would imagine if the trailer was connected to the truck it's getting 12v power from that, no?

gchapell · 09-05-2017, 07:18 PM

I have found that after sitting for a while, 1st use too, that just by removing from ac power it is supposed to switch automatically to lp. It switches but there is no lp in the line and the igniter times out before enough is drawn in to the burner. I turn on the stove to draw lp into the system. I can more directly see the flames in the stove thereby knowing that lp has been drawn through(primed). Fridge will now kick on before igniter times out as you originally expected. Probably, if you were looking for it, there was an error light, red, indicating that it didn't ignite. Good luck.

renhcir · 09-05-2017, 07:26 PM

Yes it sounds like either the LP didn't prime or maybe the LP valve behind the fridge Access cover outside is off??? It may never have been turned on.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

renhcir · 09-05-2017, 07:29 PM

Also if you did have it actually running on LP maybe there something wrong with the igniter?? I would manually switch it to LP and check they it actually lights you should be able to see the flame behind the shield outside it will be easier at night since they have a lot of sheet metal surrounding the burner area

Sent from my Nexus 5X using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

twinboat · 09-05-2017, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmerz

I would imagine if the trailer was connected to the truck it's getting 12v power from that, no?

Sure, if the charge line is working, it sends 12 volts to the battery but if the master switch is off, it won't get to the fridge.

gmacecsko · 09-06-2017, 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

Did you have the battery switch on ?

Are the batteries charged ?

The fridge control circuits need 12 volts to run.

Yes I discovered that once unplugged I then verified battery switched on.

xrated · 09-06-2017, 03:48 AM

Gchapell nailed it with his reply. The very first time I used mine (same situation as O.P.) I switched to propane and it took 5 attempts to get the frig going. The next time, I turned on the stove, which sits right next to the refrigerator, and left the burner on for about 5 seconds. I then turned the frig on, listened for the igniter to come on, then the gas valve to click on and I could hear the small burner in the frig working.

Remember, the burner in the refrigerator is about the same size as a pilot light in a gas furnace or water heater, so it uses very little gas....thus the reason it takes so long to purge any air that is in the line to the frig and some gas to the valve/burner tube.

gmacecsko · 09-06-2017, 04:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by renhcir

Also if you did have it actually running on LP maybe there something wrong with the igniter?? I would manually switch it to LP and check they it actually lights you should be able to see the flame behind the shield outside it will be easier at night since they have a lot of sheet metal surrounding the burner area

Sent from my Nexus 5X using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

I am beginning to think you are correct. I cracked the gas line as close to the ignition I could get and there is gas. But I hear the ignition clicking and clicking but no flame. Then it times out. Hopefully I can get an igniter at our next stop.

renhcir · 09-06-2017, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmacecsko

I am beginning to think you are correct. I cracked the gas line as close to the ignition I could get and there is gas. But I hear the ignition clicking and clicking but no flame. Then it times out. Hopefully I can get an igniter at our next stop.

If you hear the ignitior it should be working the spark is what makes the noise it basically a mini lightning bolt, so either gas is not getting to the burner? Or the ingniter is out of place?; I would look for a small knob on the line between the gas fitting you spoke of and we're the line goes behind the burner cover (make sure it's open, if that's ok maybe the spark isn't getting to were it's supposed to? I will take a photo of my gas shut off on my fridge and post it later it will give you a idea of the valve I'm talking about it might not be obvious? The ignitiors on these frigdes are basically the same as a car has, (a coil, sparkplug wire, and a sparkplug ( the sparkplug is permanent on the fridge)) so if the sparkplug tip is out of place it or the wire is broken or unplugged the spark might be going off in the wrong place? I would be careful if that's the case when it's sparking it could give you a small tazer like shock.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

renhcir · 09-06-2017, 04:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by renhcir

If you hear the ignitior it should be working the spark is what makes the noise it basically a mini lightning bolt, so either gas is not getting to the burner? Or the ingniter is out of place?; I would look for a small knob on the line between the gas fitting you spoke of and we're the line goes behind the burner cover (make sure it's open, if that's ok maybe the spark isn't getting to were it's supposed to? I will take a photo of my gas shut off on my fridge and post it later it will give you a idea of the valve I'm talking about it might not be obvious? The ignitiors on these frigdes are basically the same as a car has, (a coil, sparkplug wire, and a sparkplug ( the sparkplug is permanent on the fridge)) so if the sparkplug tip is out of place it or the wire is broken or unplugged the spark might be going off in the wrong place? I would be careful if that's the case when it's sparking it could give you a small tazer like shock.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

Also depending on the brand there could be a relay or valve not opening up to send the gas through (hope that's not the case it could be costly :( RV parts can be way overpriced)

Sent from my Nexus 5X using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

gmacecsko · 09-06-2017, 08:04 PM

So I disconnected the wires to the selonid and then cleaned around the ignition. Also adjusted contact. Turned it on and it has been working.

nytmare · 09-07-2017, 02:55 PM

I've found that every time I switch from LP to electric (or visa versa), my check light will come on and I have to switch off the fridge (button on the top front of the unit) and then back on. That seems to fix my issue and the check light goes out. At least 'til I switch again. Anyone know what might cause that? Or... is that how it's supposed to work? TIA