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Old 09-28-2020, 01:52 PM   #15
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Thank you all for the very helpful responses. The angle pieces/rails are unfortunately not held on with self-tapping screws and are welded to the frame. Given this, I may try one of the few suggestions around repairing the drain valve. I'll start looking into fittings and glues. Thank you again everyone!
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Old 09-29-2020, 06:54 AM   #16
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Adhesives don't work

Good luck finding a adhesive that works on the water tank material.
Try to find a company that can "spin weld" a new outlet and plug the old one. I couldn't find an adhesive that worked.
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Old 09-29-2020, 07:20 AM   #17
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Check Tap's Plastic about these products.


https://www.tapplastics.com/repair_p...stic_adhesives
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Old 09-29-2020, 01:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliez View Post
just glue the fitting in with a suitable glue.


There is the issue. It's really difficult to get over the counter glues to work on rv tanks. I had a 5'er with a hairline crack in a black tank. I tried everything to seal it and finally got JB Weld to work. It would only pee out on the ground if you were several days into a trip. Note: Pun Intended this time.
Another thing mentioned when we visited the Winnebago plant last year was that they make all their own tanks and that the fittings are spun on without adhesives. The fittings are spun at high speed and pushed onto the tank at the appropriate spot and the resulting friction melted both surfaces. After just a few seconds the fitting is released and is now an integral part of the tank. All that said, surely there is an adhesive that will work in that type of plastic. I'd call Winnebago and ask about it.
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Old 09-30-2020, 08:53 PM   #19
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It looks to me like there is still plenty of plastic "meat" left where the valve ripped out. Maybe enough to use a good pipe thread tap, one size up from before. If it was 3/8" pipe thread, go to 1/2" pipe thread. If it was 1/2", use 3/4". If you can carefully cut new threads, then installing a new valve should be pretty simple!
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Old 10-01-2020, 06:24 AM   #20
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Talking

I would start by contacting the manufacturer and see if they can just spin a new valve into that spot. If they can't then we start through the other options. You said you sheared it off while driving. Did you hit something or does it stick down so far normal driving conditions got it?
Personally I think the way to keep it up out of the way is just a plug and not a valve. It looks to be easy to get to. Check if you can find something that you can just cut new threads in the tank and screw it in.


IF you can't find anything big enough to do that you can make a plate and drill and tread a hole in that for whatever size you can find and then use a piece of ribber for a gasket and just screw the new plate over the old hole. May need a little sealer on the screw heads but if you screw through the rubber they should seal themselves. At least they always did on the old stock tanks back on the farm.
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:19 AM   #21
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Just Google RUBBER EXPANDING PLUGS hundreds of configurations to chose for.
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:54 PM   #22
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Just in case anyone is curious, I ended up using a 3/4" pipe tap (Drill America DWTPT3/4 3/4"-14 NPT Pipe Tap, Carbon Steel, DWTPT Series) to put a few threads into the plastic of the opening. I put thread tape on a 3/4" brass plug (3/4 in. MIP Brass Plug Fitting) and screwed that into the threaded hole. I no longer have the ability to drain the tank, but I'm happy to now have a tank that I can use again. If I do need to completely drain it, I'll just use a pump through the fill hole. Thanks again everyone for the suggestions!
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