Community Forums

Trvltrash · 08-12-2021, 03:15 PM

Disregard last post different issue all together, my bad ! Da

TravelSolo · 08-12-2021, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigd9

Well I'm confused! How do you know the PO has a trailer? That plug is the same one I plug into my toad. I had it fall out once and it received the same road rash as the PO's picture shows.

Also, I have a 12 volt feed from the coach to the toad to keep the toad battery charged. BUT, it is only alive when the ignition key is on and the engine is actually running. I had the same power feed when I used to tow a trailer in order to keep the trailer battery charged.

In any case, shore power has no direct connection to the RV to trailer/toad connection. The 120 volt AC shore power never directly or hard crosses into the 12 volt DC power. Maybe there is a indirect cross over IF the RV has a battery charger, and if someone wired a always on 12 volt DC "charge line" to the trailer/toad connected. Why that would be the case is beyond me.

Well we are in the Travel Trailer forum and all the wiring is related to that.

carybosse · 08-12-2021, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigd9

In my coach, if the motorhome ignition key is off, the 7 pin plug is dead, dead dead deader than a doornail. The only time there is any voltage on any of the pins is if the ignition key is on. All of the 7 pin wires are protected by relays and fuses as designed by Freightliner. As far as I know, there is no difference between towing a trailer or a toad in the 7 pin plug wiring.

Other RV's could be wired differently, but it sure would be easy to check with a multimeter or a 12 volt test light.

I haven't tested my Silverado, but on my 2015 Canyon, the 12 volt on the 7 pin was always hot, even with engine off.

There was some rundown protection that if the truck battery was growing weak, it would shut down various systems, I assume this is one of them.

When I was a youngun, my dad was working on our television set. One of those ancient, black & white units, with the rotating channel selector that clicked for each VHF channel. He had the cover off the back of the TV, and being the inquisitive lad I was, I had my nose in looking at the neat components, when my dad discharged the high voltage capacitor with a load crack and a bright flash just inches from my face. I have been known to wire things hot, but I generally like to insure there is no power anywhere before I begin.

Remember, electricity is smoke and light. Once all the smoke and arcing stops, you have run out of electricity. This is bad.

Ray,IN · 08-12-2021, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigd9

Well I'm confused! How do you know the PO has a trailer? That plug is the same one I plug into my toad. I had it fall out once and it received the same road rash as the PO's picture shows.

Also, I have a 12 volt feed from the coach to the toad to keep the toad battery charged. BUT, it is only alive when the ignition key is on and the engine is actually running. I had the same power feed when I used to tow a trailer in order to keep the trailer battery charged.

In any case, shore power has no direct connection to the RV to trailer/toad connection. The 120 volt AC shore power never directly or hard crosses into the 12 volt DC power. Maybe there is a indirect cross over IF the RV has a battery charger, and if someone wired a always on 12 volt DC "charge line" to the trailer/toad connected. Why that would be the case is beyond me.

This is the travel trailer forum, that's how I knew.

Actually there are two different tow wiring standards used. The SAE standard and the RV standard.

WillT · 08-12-2021, 10:10 PM

If you have not replaced this yet, I will tell you what I did. I have a new truck and for some reason my 3 year old TT's 7 pin plug did not fit tightly into the receptacle on the bumper. I saw on other forums that this has been an issue for some new trucks for some reason. Wrapping a length of electrical tape around the plug helped, but I was not thrilled with that solution. A couple of friends use the EZ Connector system and had recommended it but I had not seriously considered it because of the added cost vs an old fashioned 7 pin connector.

But I decided to chance it and boy am I glad I did. Replaced the cord and plug on the TT and also the receptacle on the truck. It works great and is very secure. The system is much better than my OEM set up. The only drawback is the cost. It is several times what a regular old 7 pin cable and receiver costs. Plus you really need to also buy a couple of adapters so you can tow and connect to trailers you might have that don't have the EZ Connector system, like my 35 year old utility trailer. Also so if someone without the EZ Connector needs to pull your TT.

If I was not having a problem with the OEM connection from the TT to the new truck, I probably never would have switched it out. But now that I have, I will never use anything else.

CharlesinGA · 08-12-2021, 10:19 PM

Do yourself a huge favor and buy a complete harness and plug. It is darn near impossible to get all those wires in all those connectors and tighten the screws, and they will come loose or you will have stray wires somewhere shorting something out.

Measure the length of the harness from the plug to where it goes in the trailer and then open up the inside and find the junction box (it may be outside on the front frame). Disconnect the battery and no shore power.

Buy a good Bargman plug and harness, they are about the best around. They come in various lengths. The difference in RV vs the other standard is the color of the wires in various positions. The positions on the plug have the same functions, its just that the wire colors are different.

Charles