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Old 08-18-2019, 04:49 PM   #29
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I'm confused reading through this...
Join the club!!! I think that, as you said, the Predator without a bonding adapter to tie the "neutral connector" to ground will indicate a fault on your EMS. You measure reverse polarity by sensing the voltage between the neutral and the ground and in an unbonded generator that will be exactly the same voltage as you measure between the "hot connector" and ground. An unbonded generator doesn't have a neutral until you pull it down with an adapter.

Looking at it I vote for loose neutral connections. There is no indication of any ground wires on the neutral bus so it was done to code. Heat would be generated by a loose screw and it clearly is there. If it were a simple short, the breaker would pop on the generator, on the main and even potentially on the circuit in question...way before anything got that hot.

Forget the guy at the RV place...he is more than likely pretty clueless.
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Old 08-18-2019, 04:52 PM   #30
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I'm confused reading through this. There is mention of being plugged into the "box" with some items connected to an extension cord, and to using the generator to supply power to the rig. If so, potential earth ground through this cord? Probably just me but I'm not clear of configuration and sequence of events.



I have a 3500 watt predator inverter generator. The front panel has a twist lock 30amp receptacle, and it comes with an adapter to plug in a 30amp rv type plug. Mine trips out with a load of around 32 to 33 amps after a few seconds, and trips more quickly with higher loads. Recommended max is 25amps. Mine outputs approx 120 volts until the load starts getting up there a bit then drops down to 116 to 117 or so as you max it out. As to the requirement for an edison plug type ground adapter you do indeed need one with this generator, or in my case the Progressive EMS won't apply power for and open ground fault.



I have a lot to learn because I only understood half of that.

Before I ever used my generator and I first got my TT I tried running my AC and my freezer box and the 30 amp breaker in the TT would trip. Which pist me off a bit because I figured it should handle it. But to remedy it I decided it plug the freezer box on a separate extension cord to the shore power. This did the trick.

I then wanted to try to spend a nigh boondocking and plugged into the generator that’s when things stopped working altogether. I wanted to not that the freezer box was not plugged into the TT in those last moments of life.
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Old 08-18-2019, 05:00 PM   #31
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Join the club!!! I think that, as you said, the Predator without a bonding adapter to tie the "neutral connector" to ground will indicate a fault on your EMS. You measure reverse polarity by sensing the voltage between the neutral and the ground and in an unbonded generator that will be exactly the same voltage as you measure between the "hot connector" and ground. An unbonded generator doesn't have a neutral until you pull it down with an adapter.

Looking at it I vote for loose neutral connections. There is no indication of any ground wires on the neutral bus so it was done to code. Heat would be generated by a loose screw and it clearly is there. If it were a simple short, the breaker would pop on the generator, on the main and even potentially on the circuit in question...way before anything got that hot.

Forget the guy at the RV place...he is more than likely pretty clueless.


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Old 08-18-2019, 05:05 PM   #32
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floating ground is the problem, search google lots of info.
you need to get the ground back in line with house or pedastal power.
there is a pug end mod to bond the ground this will solve much problems
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Old 08-18-2019, 05:08 PM   #33
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I run my AC, fridge, TV's, converter and microwave/convection oven on 30 amps.

That freezer box must be a power hog.
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Old 08-18-2019, 05:11 PM   #34
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When I had to add Edison plug, because of EMS, I pulled the gen front panel off and added the wire to the backside of the plugin therefor freeing up the plugin.......
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Old 08-18-2019, 05:15 PM   #35
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When I had to add Edison plug, because of EMS, I pulled the gen front panel off and added the wire to the backside of the plugin therefor freeing up the plugin.......
You can do that but it is generally not recommended since no one can tell the neutral is bonded. A dead plug in one of the outlets with the ground connected to the neutral is the most common solution. It does take a space on the panel but the OP is using the twist lock anyway.
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Old 08-18-2019, 05:42 PM   #36
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I run my AC, fridge, TV's, converter and microwave/convection oven on 30 amps.

That freezer box must be a power hog.
Bet it works after he gets his panel back together. It it was arcing and generating heat, it was also dropping voltage. He should have plenty of AC available with a 3000 watt generator.

My rig is a 2015...think I am going to go an re-torque all my panel connections, including the transfer switch.
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Old 08-18-2019, 06:08 PM   #37
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This explanation confuses me since even if the neutral and ground were bonded in the panel, which others have already said is a code violation, it still wouldn't smoke a hot neutral since there is nothing special about a hot ground as long as there is no ground rod, which there isn't. A bonded generator would only make the generator chassis equally hot under these conditions, but still no current would flow to ground since the generator chassis is isolated from an earth and there would be no relationship between the ground and the hot lead. In short, everything is isolated by tires and rubber generator feet. Or am I missing something. There is really nothing that would make the hot generator lead drive current into an isolated ground.
If the ground was trully isolated........as others have said, some are, some are not, depends on the manufacture. Usually in the owners manual it will state which it is. Without pictures of the burnt wires, its just a guess anyway. Sounds like there is a load problem too if the main was tripping. A lot of missing details.
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Old 08-18-2019, 06:11 PM   #38
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I run my AC, fridge, TV's, converter and microwave/convection oven on 30 amps.

That freezer box must be a power hog.
Agree, some detail is being left out.
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Old 08-18-2019, 06:15 PM   #39
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You can do that but it is generally not recommended since no one can tell the neutral is bonded. A dead plug in one of the outlets with the ground connected to the neutral is the most common solution. It does take a space on the panel but the OP is using the twist lock anyway.


There is a space in the back of the gen. I think with a space to add a ground couldn’t I just add a copper wire to the frame.
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Old 08-18-2019, 06:17 PM   #40
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If the ground was trully isolated........as others have said, some are, some are not, depends on the manufacture. Usually in the owners manual it will state which it is. Without pictures of the burnt wires, its just a guess anyway. Sounds like there is a load problem too if the main was tripping. A lot of missing details.
It is....
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Old 08-18-2019, 06:29 PM   #41
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The generator ground is run thru the power cord, you don't need a seperate ground wire.

That won't fix the floating neutral. That's what's giving you the reverse polarity warning. The Edison plug fixs that.
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There is a space in the back of the gen. I think with a space to add a ground couldn’t I just add a copper wire to the frame.
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Old 08-18-2019, 07:58 PM   #42
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Use a torque measuring tool.

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Bet it works after he gets his panel back together. It it was arcing and generating heat, it was also dropping voltage. He should have plenty of AC available with a 3000 watt generator.

My rig is a 2015...think I am going to go an re-torque all my panel connections, including the transfer switch.
Use a real torque screwdriver or wrench if you do that and loosen them first. Tightening contact screws repeatedly does not assure a good connection. It does damage the terminal and/or the wire though.
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