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Old 09-08-2024, 09:15 AM   #1
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shore power plug

Looking to upgrade the trailer side of my shore power to a twist lock 30 amp style plug. I have not looked at the connection inside the trailer but i know their is a junction box in their where the existing cord is tied in. When i switch do i change the wire from the junction box to the new trailer plug to solid copper wire or just cut and use the existing trailer cord? Just changing this up to give the mice one less point of entrance when im plugged in at home, as well as pc of mind since my plug exits the back of the trailer im always worried that the cover may pop open and im one of those guys dragging his cord behind him.

https://www.amazon.ca/OPL5-Receptacl...mr_ca_hp_atf_d
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Old 09-08-2024, 10:02 AM   #2
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If I understand correctly you are switching to a "independent" SP cord vs the pull out style on older models?
If I did, than I don't see any reason why you could not use the existing SP cord that is tied into the converter to connect to the new style twist lock found on newer models.
It is still the correct awg wire and rated for the cord you want to use.
Unless there is something wrong with the cord, all you would be doing is swapping good copper with new good copper.
PS: I'm assuming you're going to cut the cord to the new twist lock receptable you are mounting. I would not just cut the plug off and use the whole cord as you may encounter too much voltage drop with that awg wire and length.
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Old 09-08-2024, 10:55 AM   #3
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Thats what i was thinking that i could just use the existing wire, Plan was to cut the existing cord to the length i need to install the new plug on the trailer side and then use the remainder of the cord with a new plug on the end as my shore power cord.. This way length is not changing other than the times i have to use the extension cord.
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Old 09-08-2024, 11:56 AM   #4
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Shore CORDS have very fine wire strands, that is what makes them cords. Many devices such as the inlet you are considering, may not be designed to properly capture and clamp down on that fine stranded wire. It will continue to compress and the wire will become loose in the connector.

I finally bought a ferrule kit and have taken to using ferrules on wire in cords and many wires in general in an RV when you doing connections. You get a better connection and eliminate the posibility of stray strands going where they do not below.

However, I would run a new 10 gauge wire from the inlet to the power center, eliminating any junctions in between. Its just better.

I used my old hard wired shore cord to make an extension when I converted to a turn lock installation, pics were made when adding the female end to the cord. Yes, the cat sitting on the work bench made a pretty good background!

Charles



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Old 09-08-2024, 01:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrock2010 View Post
Looking to upgrade the trailer side of my shore power to a twist lock 30 amp style plug. I have not looked at the connection inside the trailer but i know their is a junction box in their where the existing cord is tied in. When i switch do i change the wire from the junction box to the new trailer plug to solid copper wire or just cut and use the existing trailer cord? Just changing this up to give the mice one less point of entrance when im plugged in at home, as well as pc of mind since my plug exits the back of the trailer im always worried that the cover may pop open and im one of those guys dragging his cord behind him.

https://www.amazon.ca/OPL5-Receptacl...mr_ca_hp_atf_d
I did what you are asking about to my trailer. I pulled out the shore cable all the way, then about a foot outside the trailer I cut the cable. That portion, still connected to the converter, was then connected to the new power docking port and installed into the trailer.. Next I took the remaining shore cable and put the twist lock connector on the cut end. All done, nicely finished.
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Old 09-11-2024, 08:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
Shore CORDS have very fine wire strands, that is what makes them cords. Many devices such as the inlet you are considering, may not be designed to properly capture and clamp down on that fine stranded wire. It will continue to compress and the wire will become loose in the connector.

I finally bought a ferrule kit and have taken to using ferrules on wire in cords and many wires in general in an RV when you doing connections. You get a better connection and eliminate the posibility of stray strands going where they do not below.

However, I would run a new 10 gauge wire from the inlet to the power center, eliminating any junctions in between. Its just better.

I used my old hard wired shore cord to make an extension when I converted to a turn lock installation, pics were made when adding the female end to the cord. Yes, the cat sitting on the work bench made a pretty good background!

Charles



I usually just take some solder and tin wire strand wires when i have to clamp them down. Personally i do not like any type of crip on connector especially with houshold voltage.
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Old 09-11-2024, 08:12 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Brunnie View Post
I did what you are asking about to my trailer. I pulled out the shore cable all the way, then about a foot outside the trailer I cut the cable. That portion, still connected to the converter, was then connected to the new power docking port and installed into the trailer.. Next I took the remaining shore cable and put the twist lock connector on the cut end. All done, nicely finished.
Thanks
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Old 09-11-2024, 09:27 AM   #8
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FWIW:
I really like the use of Ferrules, they were used prodigiously at the Robotics Company I worked for.

I mounted a 30 twist lock on the back wall of my rig. The inside of the new twist lock plug goes to 12 gauge solid wire (about 2') that ultimately goes to a 15A receptacle that has a 15 A Circuit breaker built in.
The cord is a 30A with a 15A adapter at the end to plug into the standard receptacle on the power pole.
The purpose is to allow power to the portable heater or a coffee pot. My rig is a 30A version, so when the water heater is on, maybe the A/C or Microwave or ceiling fan, the sum of those currents can be close or over the 30A supply. With the additional receptacle, I can leave the portable heater on or make coffee (or other items) and it's on it own supply.
I also mounted another 30A twist lock on the electrical box where a permanent generator would be in the front storage compartment. In one of those odd situations where the campground power pole is WAY forward, I can plug the 30A cord in to the front twist lock, taking advantage of the transfer switch already installed by the converter. This 30A twist lock location also lets me connect the Honda Generator that travels either in the storage compartment in the front, or in the bed of the truck.
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Old 09-11-2024, 02:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrock2010 View Post
I usually just take some solder and tin wire strand wires when i have to clamp them down. Personally i do not like any type of crip on connector especially with houshold voltage.
These are not crimp on connectors, they are ferrules. Sleeves that slip over the wire, and the sleeve is crimped into place. you can see the end of the wire sticking out of the end of the ferrule. They are commonly used in industrial equipment.

Charles
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Old 09-11-2024, 05:46 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by zrock2010 View Post
I usually just take some solder and tin wire strand wires when i have to clamp them down. Personally i do not like any type of crip on connector especially with houshold voltage.
for decades wire nuts were used in household electrical systems.
Now they are using wagos/leverlocks.
And it's been proven time after time, a crimped connection is as solid as solder connections. Manufacturers are now using molex type outlet connections, just stick wire in and snap it down basically. Nothing wrong doing it your way.
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Old 09-12-2024, 07:20 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
These are not crimp on connectors, they are ferrules. Sleeves that slip over the wire, and the sleeve is crimped into place. you can see the end of the wire sticking out of the end of the ferrule. They are commonly used in industrial equipment.

Charles
Still crimped... Nothing wrong with them i just do not like them. And as much as i hate to say this i don't need another tool...LOL
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Old 09-12-2024, 12:02 PM   #12
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As I mentioned, but it wasn't read, Ferrules were used in High current robotics where I worked, we never soldered wires and then inserted them into a screw terminal or clamping terminal like a WAGO.

If you like soldering, great, go for it. Have a look a the following if you dare.

AI responded have been know to be inaccurate, but if you don't believe this, do some research...

When I did a search on
"Tin wires before clamping"

Tin Wire Ends Fail Clamping
Based on the search results, it is generally recommended not to tin wire ends before clamping them into a terminal block or screw terminal. Here’s why:

*Risk of solder joint failure: Tinning the wire can create a weak point in the solder joint, which can break when the screw closes down on the wire, leading to vibration, loosening, and corrosion.
*Incompatibility with threaded fasteners: Stranded wires should not be tinned when used in threaded fasteners, according to IPC standards (IPC-A-610 Rev E, page 4-10, Section 4.1.4.2). Tinning in these situations can create a defective condition.
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Old 09-14-2024, 07:02 AM   #13
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not saying the above statement or research is wrong but been doing it this way for over 40 years.. Im my mind that statement was researched and recorded by a company that manufacturers those connectors. I fail to see how tinning a wire is more harmful to a wire than one that is being crimped and compressing the wire. Reason those are used is in the time i can tin 1 wire properly you could install 10 of those.. My self i hate anything crimp and if i purchase anything that has anything but a factory connection i will replace it and solder everything.
Not trying to start any type of argument here just 2 different point of views.. Still amazes me on how many times i see strand wire crimped down into something with neither a crimp/tinning on them and the wire is crushed and strands breaking everywere.
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Old 09-14-2024, 11:53 AM   #14
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It appears that no website can be presented that everyone will believe.

If tinning wires before inserting into a compression connection is a method that is chosen, a regimen of retightening should be strongly considered.

The following document is presented for anyone's reading pleasure.

The problem with tinning wires

There are a lot of things that have been done for years, that have been found to not be best practices.
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