Solar with inverter/charger

[Redapple]

Quick question...
I have a 2020 Grand Design Reflection 315rlts, I would love to add Solar with an inverter/charger. Curious about how to remove existing converter from the equation. Watched lots of videos and none of them really talk about specifically how to do that.

I want a nice 3k inverter/charger. Not sure if I should get one with a built in ts or wire in separate one. Going to feed entirely trailer, we just know what not to use.

Main usage, televisions, plugs to charge items, coffee maker,with occasional microwave use (usually a few minutes at a time).

So many ways to do this.

Plan to get lithium batts at some time, but for now I have two 6v golf cart batts.

Looking at 200 - 400 watts on top.

Any thoughts and ideas?

Thanks,
Bill

[R.Wold]

Originally Posted by Redapple

Quick question...
I have a 2020 Grand Design Reflection 315rlts, I would love to add Solar with an inverter/charger. Curious about how to remove existing converter from the equation. Watched lots of videos and none of them really talk about specifically how to do that.

I want a nice 3k inverter/charger. Not sure if I should get one with a built in ts or wire in separate one. Going to feed entirely trailer, we just know what not to use.

Main usage, televisions, plugs to charge items, coffee maker,with occasional microwave use (usually a few minutes at a time).

So many ways to do this.

Plan to get lithium batts at some time, but for now I have two 6v golf cart batts.

Looking at 200 - 400 watts on top.

Any thoughts and ideas?

Thanks,
Bill

Don’t remover your converter. It runs off 110v and makes your 12v so it’s still useful. Install your inverter before your converter such that your inverter is powering your 110v panel and your converter gets its power from there .

Even if you stay with 12v for your entire system (inverter and solar panels), which I’m guessing you are given the 200-400w solar goal, your converter is still useful because it will provide your 12v while plugged in.

I can see the logic of removing the converter, having 12v solar and 12v batteries providing all your 12v needs and your 12v inverter charging it all, but if you ever sell the trailer you’d have to reinstall all the original stuff if you want to keep your solar/Chargers/inverter for the next unit.

Leaving your converter in the system is a little less efficient (converting solar power to 110v, then back to 12v) it’s an easier install. The only change I’d make is to disconnect the charger side of the converter-charger, and let the inverter charge your batteries for the sake of efficiency, but even that isn’t really necessary. Whatever you do I’d leave all original equipment and wiring in place and label anything you disconnect for future reference.

[Redapple]

Thanks, the one I was looking at replaces the existing converter/charger.

What they effectively did was go from the shore connection directly to the new inverter/charger (with the bui6in transfer switch) and just feed the 110 and 12v distribution. That is where I need some guidance

[R.Wold]

What inverter/charger did you buy? When you say ”what they effectively did...” who is they? OEM? It would be most helpful if you listed exactly what equipment you currently have, what you plan to buy, and what, if any, modifications have already been performed.

You should still have your original transfer switch in place and operational. That chooses between shore, generator, or inverter 110v. The transfer switch in the inverter just decides whether or not to provide 110v from the battery bank, and if it’s smart enough, generator support as well. And in my case, it will even support the pedestal power if it’s in a low voltage condition. But it’s purpose is just to decide whether or not to provide 110v from your batteries. It’s not typically a replacement for your OEM transfer switch.

Either way you can still just leave your converter in place. It is powered by your 110v panel (most likely is plugged in to an outlet in the compartment where it’s mounted), which should now be powered by your inverter.

If you want your inverter/charger to be the sole source of 12v (Providing 12v while charging from the sun or pedestal), the just disconnect your converter and leave it in place: your inverter/charger will charge your batteries and your batteries can provide your 12v directly. I wouldn’t do it this way, but if you really want to eliminate your converter, that’s how you’d do it.

[Redapple]

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I have a travel trailer with no generator or transfer switch. Either shore power or battery.

I have purchased nothing or made any modifications yet. Doing research to understand how best to implement for my use.

Victron makes an excellent device that will do all of the things I want and allow me to adjust the charging profile when I upgrade the batteries.

Single device that allows pass through when connected to shore power, or allow batts, and solar and inverter to work together.

Watched several videos done by some of the more popular rv bloggers. I have no intention on spending the kind of money they did, but looking at designing smaller scale of what they did.

Those folks are full time, I am not.

Thanks,
Bill

[Tomahawk]

I have a similar sized system (280 watts) on my 18ft TT. I did a lot of research prior to setting it up and I decided just to use a MPPT Solar Charge controller connected directly to the battery bank. I added a separate inverter that I can plug my shore power into if I want AC power. One thing to be aware of is, if you leave your converter in place (I would) and connect your shore power to the inverter you should disconnect the battery from converter. If you leave it, the inverter will draw power from the batteries and run the converter, the converter will then try to charge the batteries. I read this is a potential fire hazard, that seems unlikely to me if everything is properly protected with fuses, I am no expert in this area. It does seem like it will create a lot of wasted energy. In my system, I have 3 circuit breakers, one between the batteries and the trailer (main one it came with), one between the SA Charge controller and the batteries, and one between the inverter and the batteries. If I want AC power to the entire TT, I flip off the battery to TT breaker and plug the shore power into the inverter.

A couple of things I did that I am happy with that I'd recommend:
1. I wired 2 outlets that just go to the inverter. That way I can run just those without powering the entire TT with all it's parasitic losses.
2. I bought a larger 24 Volt SA Panel. To efficiently use that you need an MPPT charge controller. The 24 Volt panel has 2 big pluses in my opinion. First, you can run lighter gauge wire from the panel to the SA Charge controller. I kept my panel free standing and have a 25 ft cord (made from a 10 gauge outdoor extension cord). I can park the TT in the shade and put the panel in the sun. I can tilt and move the panel to get maximum SA input. Second, most 12 volt panels sell for about $1/Watt, I got my panel for $160, so about $0.57/Watt.

My system isn't the nicest but it works for me. I use my TT 6 times a year for between 4 and 8 days each trip. In the 2 years I have owned it, I haven't ran a generator once. I'd like Lithium batteries primarily for the weight and ability to draw down further. Going from memory, I spent $160 for the panel, $100 for SA Charge controller, and $100 for a 1000W inverter. Throw in the extension cord and conncetors and call it $400 total. About the cost of 2000W inverter generator.

Last thing, I have about 200 AH of flooded lead acid batteries. I am pretty miserly on the power consumption. LED lights, propane fridge, water pump, phone charge, tooth brush charge, furnace if it is below 50 (wife insists). The movable panel completely charges the batteries if it gets 4 hours of sun. Which makes sense if I am using about 70 AH per day. If pushed the batteries to 40% SOC, I would need to add back 120 AH each day. The panel would need about 8 hours of sun (or another panel).

[Nwcid]

You can leave your OEM converter in place, just turn off the breaker, that is what I did. If for some reason I ever had a problem with my inverter, and I have shore power my batteries could still be charged.

Also, do you have a 30a or 50a shoreline? Setting up a single pass though inverter/charger is much easier and straight forward on 30a then 50a

[Redapple]

I have 50 amp service

[Nwcid]

Originally Posted by Redapple

I have 50 amp service

I am not aware of a company that makes an inverter that will do straight pass though 50a the way an RV is wired. I went though this last year when I did my set up.

Many inverters have either a 30a or 60a pass through for the AC side. This means you will only be able to wire it to one side of your input. You may have to change some things around in your power distribution box, I had to.

[R.Wold]

What’s the Victron part #. As you can see by my sig, I’m a member of the Victron faithful. Two Blue Solar MPPT 150/35 controllers, Color Control GX, BVM700 and Multi-plus 24/3000 inverter.

[Redapple]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

What’s the Victron part #. As you can see by my sig, I’m a member of the Victron faithful. Two Blue Solar MPPT 150/35 controllers, Color Control GX, BVM700 and Multi-plus 24/3000 inverter.

Was looking at this one:
Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 120V VE.Bus

[Redapple]

I am beginning to see I will need to adjust what I am able to realistically accomplish.

[jcussen]

Originally Posted by Redapple

Was looking at this one:
Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 120V VE.Bus

Yes, have that one, can not go wrong, plus its a hybrid, will battery assist if load too high. Bluetooth settings and operation.

[Tuscany3680]

Very easy to take it (current converter) out of the equation, turn off the circuit breaker. Should be a 15 amp breaker if it’s the same as my 2020 Northpoint.