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Old 07-09-2020, 05:03 PM   #57
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I second the Reece double cam and larger truck. Towed 32 travel trailer with that setup. Was great. Had Dodge 250 diesel.
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Old 07-09-2020, 05:08 PM   #58
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14 F150 145" wheel base pulling a 30' Coachmen 29SE and I don't have any sway problems. My RV dealer did a great job setting up the Equalizer 4 point. So like many have said actual trailer and tongue weight need to be established and adjusted if necessary. And then you can have the bars adjusted to match. Some people are pulling 32 and 34' with an F150 without reporting problems so there is a cure without moving up to a 3/4 or larger.
Cheers, Jim & Sandy
'14 F150 SCrew, Ruby Red, FX4, 3.5 EcoBoost. 3.55 E locker, 5.5 with Bacflip VP. Pulling a '15 Coachmen 29SE
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Old 07-09-2020, 05:19 PM   #59
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If, and of course it's a BIG if, the op has the hitch set up correctly, I would place the blame on soft suspension and P rated tires. There is just too much wiggle room with that. I think that the suggestion of a trackbar and upgrading the tires to LT would help a great deal. I'm towing at 30 foot, 7600# gross TT with a 2019 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi, 3.92 gears and LT tires plus an Equalizer 4 way hitch with 10,000 pound bars. No sway. Of course at my age, getting those bars in place is sometimes a struggle even with the cheater bar.
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Old 07-09-2020, 05:34 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Roy-c View Post
if you hunt back through all of the postings about problems pulling a trailer I would bet you will not find a single one where the truck was too much and they wish they bought a lighter duty truck. The one thing that these posts all seem to have in common is they start out with " I have a F150 or 1500 of another brand pickup "
If you are going to tow a trailer you need a real truck.
Spot on! I wish I had a dime for every time someone said “but my truck can tow xx,000 lbs” only to find out that it’s a whole other world when you are rolling down a windy interstate between 2 tractor trailers. I race cars so I have been towing trailers for 30 years... several years back I went to a Chevy dealer to inquire about a new dually. The dealer didn’t have any so he tried to tell me that an Avalanche would “have no problem towing my trailer” without even asking what kind of trailer I tow! There is no magic piece of equipment that will cure too light of a truck but if I were the OP, I would put some load range ‘E’ LT tires on it, make sure I have plenty of tongue weight and start thinking about what my next truck would be - it’s not just payload that’s important but wheelbase. You will also probably need some kind of helper spring / air bag because if his trailer isn’t making the back of your truck squat yet, it will when you get enough tongue weight for it to handle respectably.
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Old 07-09-2020, 06:07 PM   #61
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I had the same truck and a longer heavier trailer. The TW was 16%-17% with an Equalizer 4 point sway control. Never a problem in over 14,000 miles. OP doesn't need to spend money needlessly, he needs help in a proper setup of trailer / hitch / truck.
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Old 07-09-2020, 06:56 PM   #62
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I had an Equalizer hitch and never felt comfortable in wind or when almost anyone passed. I took it to a hitch specialist who set it up correctly, but still had sway issues. Bought a Blue Ox Sway Pro with 750lb bars for 2 reasons, first had read excellent comments and spoke with users and second, I don't want to dump thousands into an Anderson or similar. The Blue Ox was easy to setup and adjust. Took care of virtually all the sway. Traded in the Jayco for a 2020 Imagine 2600RB last November.

First trip out, it hauled nicely, but I was figuring it could do a bit better. After talking with other users, I upgraded to 1000 lb bars and it hauls great.

I've run with a 2016 F-150 and now have a 2019 F-150 with 6 ft box and the 5.0L V8. Plenty of power and easy tow.

You might look at the Blue Ox Sway Pro. Unless we get a 5th wheeler, that's what we're staying with.
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Old 07-09-2020, 07:29 PM   #63
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Weight / balance in your trailer. What's happening is there is more weight on the back side of the axle therefore really tossing the front side of the trailer around so you feel it while driving. This scenario can be really dangerous especially in the mountains as it is a whole lot easier to loose control of the trailer and vehicle.
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Old 07-09-2020, 08:11 PM   #64
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You would be surprised how much of a difference improper loading makes. A few years ago I was hauling 2 500gal propane tanks on my 30' 18k flatbed pulling it with my gmc 3500 duramax. Both way under capacity but I got loaded just a little too far back on the trailer and it was swaying like crazy anything above 50mph. I pulled over and winched the tanks 10" forward on the trailer and it pulled like a dream the remaining 300 miles. Make sure your tongue weight is accurate. You have to weigh it at the coupler right where the ball goes. I have seen people weigh it at the jack because it is easier but that will definitely give you the wrong number. Another important thing is to weigh it at the same height as it sits on the hitch. Weigh it loaded exactly as you pull it. Keep at it till you figure it out, you'll be glad you did.
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Old 07-10-2020, 06:02 AM   #65
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Little lite with the F150 but it can be managed to control sway with two things if it hasn't been stated earlier. You need stiffer sidewall tires for the pickup, load E that will take 80 psi air pressure. Without driving your setup I would bet the sway is your pickup, the tires are flexing to the side. You upgrade the tires and that may take care of the problem but not totally with a side wind such as vehicles passing you. Next, you need one or two frictions bars and a different hitch for the pickup. Here is the friction bar and type of hitch you would need. You can see in the picture of the hitch were a ball can be placed for the friction ball. There are videos on youtube how to install the friction bar.
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1989 Avion 32s
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Old 07-10-2020, 09:21 AM   #66
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Swaying too much

We are retired and travel about 8,000 to 10,000 a year.
We tow our Lance 1985 with a Lincoln Navigator.
Basically a heavy 1/2 ton pickup with a SUV body.
I run load range E tires and a weight distribution hitch.
Also a EEZ tire monitor system on all 8 tires.
The Lance tires are inflated to their spec, the Navigator tires are 5-PSI over their spec. It does help especially on the Navigator with tire wear
This is our second trailer and have been doing this since 1994.
The grey and black tanks are behind the trailer axles and are normally towed empty except when looking for a dump station after boondocking.
The fresh water tank is forward of the trailer axles and will have a minimum of 10 gallons for emergency purposes.
The forward compartment stores the heavy stuff.
Even then there was a bit more sway than I wanted regardless with both waste tanks empty to full.
Have read for years that the trailer being level is not a big deal.
Got curious and parked on a flat road and got out the measuring tape.
The dealer had set up the hitch incorrectly and the trailer was 3/8-inch nose high. Dropped the ball down to the next notch and re-measured.
Trailer now 1/8-inch nose low. Made a difference in handling especially underpasses in a cross wind.
Now that I have said that, if we went to a trailer up to 28-foot I would go to a 3/4 ton. Larger than that a 1 ton.
Our factory towing capacity is 8,000-Lbs. By the time you subtract us and cargo and take into consideration that we live in a mountainous area and have to lob off another 8% for the grades we encounter our 8,000 is now 6,900 to 7,000-Lbs. Trailer gross weight 6,500-Lbs. Taking into consideration grades is important is, just because you can pull a hill and maintain road speed you also have to come down the other side and there are always curves. Have a good idea about this as I drove log trucks in the Sierra for a few years.
Anyhow, have said more than I intended and previous blogs have many worthwhile suggestions. GOOD LUCK !
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Old 07-10-2020, 11:23 AM   #67
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Location: Florida
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Thumbs up Great information...

R. Wold nailed it. I have been pulling boats my entire life and every time the weight is distributed a bit to the rear, the trailer will invariably sway. As he said, find a way to redistribute your weight to the front and I am willing to bet you will see significant improvement. By the way, trailer sway is extremely dangerous and can get away from the driver and make the rig uncontrollable in a short minute. A longer and heavier tow vehicle will help too, but may not be necessary. Travel safe so we all can!
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Old 07-10-2020, 11:52 AM   #68
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tail wag, You have too much weight behind the axles.
plain & simple solution adjust ur load move more up front but do not over load the tongue, either. also, maybe think about hauling less stuff as in less is more.
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Old 07-29-2020, 12:11 PM   #69
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Sway control not always part of WDHitch

Does your WD hitch have a separate sway control bar? Not all WD hitches have sway control and it must be added. My Blue ox didnt have this and I added it to the system to solve issue. Was only about 60 bucks fro the brackets and sway control bar.
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:42 PM   #70
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We had a 7200 lb trailer with a rear slide. Our tow vehicle was 3/4 ton Suburban with the 8.1 big block. The first hitch we had was a Reese Dual Cam.

Our first trip with the trailer was a nightmare because the sway was so bad. The DW swore shed never go on another trip unless I did something to fix the sway problem. At the time I had no idea, but later realized the weight in the back from the rear slide was making the tongue weight too light.

To make a long story short, the solution was to get a Pro-Pride hitch. It took care of the sway completely. It was expensive, but completely worth the $$$.
It aint camping unless you have a microwave.
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