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Old 05-22-2021, 12:09 PM   #1
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To Glue or Not to Glue Vinyl Plank snap lock flooring

I am going to install Water Proof snap lock Vinyl Plank Flooring in my travel trailer to replace Buckled and cracked Linoleum. The Vinyl Plank I am looking at is Traffic Master at home depot. It has a Rubber like backing and is designed to float. No underlayment needed. Several people in different forums say to Also Glue it down. Home depot says not to glue it down. I would like to hear from those who have installed the Vinyl Plank snap lock flooring in their RV. Did you glue it down or not.

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Old 05-22-2021, 10:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhbell View Post
I am going to install Water Proof snap lock Vinyl Plank Flooring in my travel trailer to replace Buckled and cracked Linoleum. The Vinyl Plank I am looking at is Traffic Master at home depot. It has a Rubber like backing and is designed to float. No underlayment needed. Several people in different forums say to Also Glue it down. Home depot says not to glue it down. I would like to hear from those who have installed the Vinyl Plank snap lock flooring in their RV. Did you glue it down or not.

Mel
Glue it down with contact cement. If you have to pull it up it is not to hard. A little heat will release the contact cement.
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Old 05-22-2021, 10:59 PM   #3
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A S&B does not go bouncing/vibrating/twisting down the road

As suggested
Contact Cement......holds but isn't permanent
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Old 05-22-2021, 11:02 PM   #4
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why would you want to glue it down? i have done several floors in houses and non of the them recommend gluing. i have never seen any floor covering manufacture recommend gluing.
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Old 05-23-2021, 01:43 AM   #5
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I am not sure about gluing it down. I would put a little glue on the snap lock joints. One of my friends had done several installations and recommended that I do it when I was doing an install. I ignored him and followed the instructions. When I was done the floor looked perfect. After a few weeks, I notice some of the seems had opened a little, not enough to be a problem but I noticed it. That was just from thermal cycle, in a trailer with the vibration it will be much worse.
The only other comment I have is that stuff is heavy, I wouldn't want to use my payload that way.
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Old 05-23-2021, 02:03 AM   #6
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I've done several RV's, and more cabins and house rooms, with LVP. Doing another friend's RV tomorrow. As with all Minnesota RV's, it'll see temps from -30 to 120 on the inside.

I've never glued down an entire installation. Never saw the need, and I've have never had a problem stemming from not gluing it. The RV may bounce, but the vacuum formed under the plank body keeps it nicely stuck to the underlayment.

There are some places - especially in an RV - where a small chunk sort of hangs off by itself, and you can't depend on the holding power of all of the surrounding planks because there aren't any - ledges around stairwells, etc. - and so I have glued or screwed those down. But the main mass of the floor, no.

Just leave the recommended gaps, and when you're done, fill in all of those gaps with a thick bead of clear silicone, troweled down flat to match the boards. Keeps the whole plank body from sliding in the moving RV, and keeps spills from draining under the planks. If it gets hot and the floor expands, the silicone will compress and let it expand. If it gets really cold and the floor contracts, the silicone will release the plank before the planks start to gap.
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Old 05-23-2021, 05:52 AM   #7
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I dont what brand product a friend used in his 5th wheel,, but it was snap together flooring and recommended to install floating. The problem developed after one full year where temperature excursions occurred. The flooring expanded with heat just fine but when cooled and shrinking occurred the seams separated in many areas leaving visible gaps.
If I were doing an RV install I would consider some adhesive in the joints at least. Something fluid like superglue might work and only have to do spots vs 100% of every seam?
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Old 05-23-2021, 10:25 AM   #8
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I had a professional flooring installer put the LVP in my MH, and he also installs for a local RV dealership. I also used the Home Depot Luxury Vinyl plank. He used a permanently flexible flooring adhesive that allows removal of a damaged plank, should it be necessary. So far, no issues.
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Old 05-23-2021, 11:16 AM   #9
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Vinyl is unstable in extreme temp changes. Manufactures of LVP use a variety of sub-straight or backing materials to help with this. Be sure to read the box to see what the manufacture says about temp range.

If you full-time or live in an area that does experience the major temp changes, you should be fine with most LVP flooring.

If you glue it, it will find the weakest area to relieve itself. I've seen some split at the heat registers.
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Old 06-17-2021, 05:26 PM   #10
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I would probably use a modest amount of caulk -- the most common garden variety one they sell at the big box stores. It should hold the planking down fine, yet you will still be able to remove it if need be. When we had new granite countertops put in our home kitchen, that is what the installers used -- they squiqqled a few beads of the caulk here and there.

He said they do not ever use glue, because then if they needed to pull the granite up for any reason, they could not do so without breaking it. He said with caulk, it hold it in place but they could still pull the granite up intact.
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Old 06-18-2021, 06:56 AM   #11
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I did not glue but I have a couple places I stapled an end at a wall. This stuff will move and a crack will become visible on occasion but that location will change with your road moves. If l was going to do it again I would be sure to run the planks in the direction that would put ends under the kitchen slide instead of the edges. That way when that slide sags a tiny bit there are short seems to open up instead of a long edge seem.

Another thing to look at before buying is the thickness of the color layer. The thicker the layer the less likely to show a scratch.


One last thing to do is study the direction the locks go. They are much easier to attach from one side than the other. It is kinda like locking them in place backwards and that is harder than front wards. Study the parts a bit and it will be easy to see the difference.
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