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Old 09-10-2020, 11:28 AM   #1
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Towing capabilities

I would be crazy to try and tow a 5700# tt with an SUV w/ a towing capacity of 6500#?
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Old 09-10-2020, 12:56 PM   #2
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Welcome to iRV2.

Best answer is probably!

Is that the trailer GVWR or dry weight?

Your SUV max tow capacity if probably determined with only a 150 lb driver , so all weight over 150 lbs. in the vehicle has to be deducted from max tow.
Then you have axle weights to consider.
Load the SUV with family and pets , fill with gas and have it weighed.
Take your actual weight and compare to the vehicle and tire ratings .. I believe you’ll be shocked by how little capacity you have left for hitch and tongue weight, particularly on the rear axle.
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Old 09-11-2020, 05:22 AM   #3
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Lets go, you got a lot of homework to do. If your SUV only has a towing capacity of 6500 then a 5700 lb trailer will probably put you way over your carrying capacity. You'll always run out of carrying capacity long before hitting your towing capacity.

Post up the info on your trailer and tow vehicle and we can help you figure it out.
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Old 09-11-2020, 07:18 AM   #4
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To accurately determine your vehicles towing capacity, and properly match towing vehicle and trailer, use this online towing calculator.
You will note it requires actual weights in some blocks, and offers the optional 20% towing safety factor most full-timers use to insure tow vehicle longevity and handling safety.
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Old 09-11-2020, 07:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LetsGoChamp View Post
I would be crazy to try and tow a 5700# tt with an SUV w/ a towing capacity of 6500#?
Good advice posted above. The first issue is you have not given enough information to make that determination. That probably means you will be over weight maximums.

The ratio of TT weight to towing capacity says you MAY be OK. The way to know is to get the Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight from the sticker on the front driver's side of the TT. Even the same brand, model, and year can be different sometimes. Dry Weight or Unloaded Weight is not useful for this purpose.

Next get all the specifications from the driver's door frame from the TV. Again, individual vehicles that seem to be the same may be different. Dry or Unloaded weight of the Tow Vehicle is the starting point.

Tow vehicle Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight minus the Dry weight is the Cargo Capacity. Subtract weight of everything added to the TV since it left the factory. There is already and allowance of 150 pounds for a driver. Everything from added trailer hitch to passengers and luggage counts against cargo capacity.

What remains is what you have available for TT tongue weight and weight distribution hitch. Tongue weight must be at least 10% of TT Gross Vehicle Weight for safe towing. 15% will be more stable. Published tongue weights for TT are usually not correct. My last two trailers came in at double the published weights.

There may be other specifications on the Tow vehicle door sticker. None of those maximums including tire maximums may be safely exceeded. Not all maximums are always shown on the stickers. A dealer for the SUV may be able to find them for you. Published value tables can be confusing. Even dealers get it wrong sometimes. Finding them using VIN number is the most accurate.

The above procedure is for planning purposes. Actual values while towing are what matter. When towing near the capacity of a tow vehicle, you should get actual axle weights from a commercial truck scale and check them against the sticker maximums.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!
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Old 09-11-2020, 05:07 PM   #6
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I just posted this in another thread.

I have a 23' Rockwood Ultra Light and its dry weight is 5555. I had a 1/2 ton Ram with every single towing option including the air suspension, tow mirrors, all towing accessories, 3.92 gears and the 3.0 EcoDiesel with a 12,000 lb tow rating. It was great off the line but anything over 60 mph it was wheezing and doing all it could to pull the trailer. The trailer never felt stable behind the truck either. All the way home with the trailer, it was hunting between 3rd and 4th gear. I really thought all these "1/2 ton towable trailers" could be towed with a 1/2 ton truck, but let's just say that within a few days I traded for a 2500 diesel. Problem solved.

The RV places aren't going to tell you that you can't tow these with a 1/2 ton truck, heck they sold my friend who has a EcoBoost Ford 1/2 ton truck a 9500 lb dry weight trailer, and he will be the first to tell you it isn't up to the task. He's currently looking for a Ford F250.

Personally, I would not go over 21' and nothing over 4500 dry behind a half ton. I pulled my friends 21' Micro Lite with no issues. That Micro Lite is a good 1-2' shorter than my Ultra too, which is likely part of the problem.

My friend tried towing that 21 footer with a Yukon with the 5.3 V8. He did everything he could to make it work, including adding air bags to the rear. How did it go? He has a Silverado 3500 diesel now.

I'm not a newbie to towing either, I've been towing all across the country since the 1980s, all different types of trailers.
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Old 09-15-2020, 06:48 AM   #7
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How do you find RGAWR and RGAW? This is entirely too complicated just to get a number that you can tow. O.o

Example:
Tow vehicle is:
2000 Toyota Landcruiser
GVW or curb weight is 5115#
GVWR is 6860#
Max tongue weight on hitch 650#
TT is:
GeoPro 20bh
GTW or gross trailer weight is 3513#
CCC of trailer is 942#
Hitch weight listed by TT mfg is 455#

Its me, small wife, 2 small kids, and a medium amount of cargo. Maybe 500lbs total =passengers + cargo.
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Old 09-15-2020, 08:30 AM   #8
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First work of advice is to forget dry weights. Use the trailer GVWR as stamped of the tag on the left front corner. Now take 12% of that weight for an estimated tongue weight. With an SUV, you will probably reach your GVWR or payload capacity for the SUV long before you reach the tow rating.

The SUVs tow rating is most likely based on a base model and only a 150# driver. You have to reduce payload rating and tow rating for every pound you add over the base unit. This means you have to deduct for passenger, cargo and the hitch.

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Old 09-15-2020, 09:58 AM   #9
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I question the use of the GVWR, that has to be a derivative of the dry weight. so if the dry weight is not correct neither can the GVWR be correct. best way is to take the T/T to some scales and weigh it empty that's your new dry weight to work from.
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Old 09-15-2020, 10:36 AM   #10
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Letsgo,
Axle weight ratings are generally listed on the tag afixed to the drivers door post. Lacking that, look at your tires. On there will be a Max weight or load carrying capacity @ XX PSI. Multiply that number by 2. That will be the GAWR as per vehicle mfg.
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Old 09-15-2020, 12:17 PM   #11
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Gotta say this is very confusing. Just now trying to learn about towing. Lot more complicated than hitching the jeep up to the motor home.
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Old 09-16-2020, 06:53 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by TOO LONG View Post
Gotta say this is very confusing. Just now trying to learn about towing. Lot more complicated than hitching the jeep up to the motor home.
Agreed. It sucks. Too complicated. I cant take the TT down to weigh it as I haven't bought it yet. Thats the reason I'm asking. I don't wanna buy something then later find out I can't tow it. Zzzzzz

I've watched countless yt videos of guys pulling the GroPro with ease w/ their V6 SUVs, light trucks, vans etc. So I'm going to assume my 5.7L V8 Toyota Landcruiser will pull it as well and skip all of these shenanigans. I think these details are more relevant when you are pulling something with much more skewed weights. Like trying to pull a 5th wheel with a Yugo.
Im going to buy a good WDH and call it good.
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Old 09-16-2020, 07:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LetsGoChamp View Post
Agreed. It sucks. Too complicated. I cant take the TT down to weigh it as I haven't bought it yet. Thats the reason I'm asking. I don't wanna buy something then later find out I can't tow it. Zzzzzz

I've watched countless yt videos of guys pulling the GroPro with ease w/ their V6 SUVs, light trucks, vans etc. So I'm going to assume my 5.7L V8 Toyota Landcruiser will pull it as well and skip all of these shenanigans. I think these details are more relevant when you are pulling something with much more skewed weights. Like trying to pull a 5th wheel with a Yugo.
Im going to buy a good WDH and call it good.
EDITED.

Based on your reply above, I wouldn't, but you might be in spec.

In addition to that WDH, of course, you need an EBC. Don't leave the lot without it.
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Old 09-16-2020, 08:23 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jay D. View Post
I question the use of the GVWR, that has to be a derivative of the dry weight. so if the dry weight is not correct neither can the GVWR be correct. best way is to take the T/T to some scales and weigh it empty that's your new dry weight to work from.
Jay D.
Dry weight and GVWR have nothing to do with one another. GVWR is determined by the manufacturers design and chassis components used in building the unit. Dry weight is determined on the scales by the manufacturer using a basic equipped unit in it's shipping configuration to the dealer. Anny optional equipment is not accounted for in this dry weight.
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