Community Forums

NYJoe · 07-25-2021, 06:41 PM

Being a newbie to the RV world, I made the mistake three years ago of being wowed by the option of a front window in the fiberglass front cap. "you can see the stars at night from bed" ....what BS.... This window lets the sun bake the RV in the summer and my head freezes at night when the temps dip below 60. My thoughts were to get a foam seat cushion to block the window and add some insulation. I noticed that there was little to none insulation between the fiberglass cap and the interior wall. Question for the group: I can get access to the 2 inch space between the fiberglass cap and the interior wall by removing window trim and was thinking of sliding in some insulation.

Will this cause any problems down in the future that I'm not thinking of?

Don't think that it's used for air circulation and can't think of other negative effects.

HopsBrewster · 07-25-2021, 08:13 PM

I don't know whether you're thinking of this, but assuming your factory installed window is watertight at this point you very well might bung that up, and void the warranty in the process.
The older trailers with front windows used a fiberglass cover or louvers. You might think in that direction.

I have a front window. I keep the blind and curtain closed if the nose is in the sun, and when it's cold I'll wear a cap to sleep in, just like they did before the invention of central heat.

tuffr2 · 07-25-2021, 08:16 PM

It will probably be more trouble than it is worth. I know you can take the front cap off. It is sealed at the roof and screwed along the edges. But putting it back on would be a pain.

Lol - I sleep with a tossle cap on. My bald head gets cold if I don't wear a tossle cap.

NYJoe · 07-26-2021, 04:41 AM

I can access the space from inside by removing the interior window trim. Just four screws holding the plastic trim. Wouldn't dream of removing the front cap or window. That's way above my pay grade.
Later today I was going to do a little exploring to see if it was doable.

tuffr2 · 07-26-2021, 06:00 AM

Probably worth a look see but on a 40 degree night that whole front area might need more insulation. I have heard other people say the front cap in not insulated very well. I have had 3 trailers and a 3 I would agree - not insulated very well.

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charliez · 07-26-2021, 06:31 AM

Get a roll of Refelectix and make a window shade for it. it will make all the difference. It's what AI do with al of my windows and it works.

sirtate · 07-26-2021, 09:25 AM

If you can get the window trim open, could you load up that gap with spray foam insulation?

Along with that metallic 'bubble wrap' in the window, it could change things...

RobbieH · 07-26-2021, 09:31 AM

As Charlie said, I cut a piece of Reflectix and put it in the window. Problem solved.

After having the trailer in this configuration, especially since I have a Murphy bed, the window makes no sense. It would if the kitchen was in front and the bed in the back, but with the bed in front, the window is covered during the day and then uncovered when we are in bed which is exactly when you want the window covered.

Cumminsfan · 07-26-2021, 11:35 AM

As if we don't have enough areas that could leak already. Then RV manufactures put a window in that makes it hotter or colder and offers nothing in return. By the time I'm in bed I'm not all that interested in looking at stars or clouds or rain.
I could see it in an FL 5th wheel where you'd be up high enough to see over your truck. But in a TT thats 10-10 times parked behind your tow vehicle and facing the general public whats the point except during the night when you're probably sleeping?
Bling sells I guess.

NYJoe · 07-26-2021, 05:43 PM

Well I took a look behind the interior window trim at the space between cap and interior wall, and in typical RV manufacturer fashion, the insulation that was there was done half-Asked... A couple of random pieces here and there. A lot of large gaps and nothing around the window trim.

For now I fashioned an out door seat cushion to fit in the window. Hoping it will minimize solar gain and drafts when the temps dip. Also added a piece of thermal shield. Will revisit the insulation when I have some time.

arcaguy · 07-26-2021, 06:02 PM

I was thinking about the foam insulation too and if there are no wires or anything else you may need to access up there it might be a good solution. That said I would use non expanding foam or minimally expanding foam so as not to deform anything. You might also think about putting the foam in garbage bags so it would be easier to get out if you need to. Good luck.

NYJoe · 07-29-2021, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arcaguy

I was thinking about the foam insulation too and if there are no wires or anything else you may need to access up there it might be a good solution. That said I would use non expanding foam or minimally expanding foam so as not to deform anything. You might also think about putting the foam in garbage bags so it would be easier to get out if you need to. Good luck.

Good idea about the garbage bag but looking at the space, it may be a lot of foam.
Just bought an infrared thermometer, checked the temp outside on the fiberglass cap which registered 103 degrees. Inside the temp varied 89 to 98 depending where the insulation was. So this illustrates the need for more insulation.

BirchyBoy · 07-29-2021, 07:16 AM

Talk to on of the companies that make the magnetic window shades for class A’s. Put it on when needed and take it off when you’re at a place where you could enjoy it.

TXiceman · 07-29-2021, 08:29 AM

Ran across a new Beacon owner a few weeks ago. He had the model with the big front bedroom window and was already regretting the big window. When the noon and west sun hit that window, you could not keep the bedroom cool. He had tried putting Reflectix and a layer of bead-board foam in it to knock down the heat and it helped, but now he was in a dark cave.

Ken