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Old 08-09-2018, 04:25 AM   #1
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Wall Anchors/Screws

I have a Heartland Mallard M185 TT. I want to mount a power strip on the wall under the dinette table and want to know the best screw and/or anchor to use.

This outer wall is constructed (AFAIK) of a THIN piece of plywood with 2" of solid foam (translated styrofoam) with a fiberglass outer shell.

Just want to make sure if I'm putting holes in my wall that I'm doing it right so I don't cause problems or have to redo it.

Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:27 AM   #2
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Look for a seam in the panels. You should find a stud behind that to put the screws into. You can mount it to the bottom of the table surface.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:04 AM   #3
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Charlie, thanks for your response. The table in this model can be removed and used outside, so mounting to that is not an option. I'll see if my standard stud finder can detect aluminum studs.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:06 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brenwol1 View Post
Charlie, thanks for your response. The table in this model can be removed and used outside, so mounting to that is not an option. I'll see if my standard stud finder can detect aluminum studs.

Thanks again.
Other note: I need to more or less center it on the wall under the table between the seats so knees won't get bruised. So mounting to a stud at least on one end of the power strip may not be possible.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:21 AM   #5
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We've used wall anchors like this in both our motorhomes:
https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/wa...yABEgJLvfD_BwE

They come in many different sizes and weight ratings. We use the ones meant for 1/4" plywood. You just have to make sure you don't hit a stud when installing them.

I would drill a tiny hole 1/16" just to make sure there's no stud in the way. Then drill the proper size hole and install the anchor. We've used them to hang a number of things on the walls including an outlet strip under the dinette table and a clock.

The only downside is that they are permanent. They can't be removed without having to repair the wall. In our case it doesn't matter much. We kept our first motorhome over 12 years and put on over 110,000 miles. We plan to do the same with our current one. At that age potential buyers could care less that there's an anchor in the wall.
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Old 08-09-2018, 02:05 PM   #6
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Since most RV are similar I’m going to post my experiences.

I don’t like to make large holes and drilling into the unknown on an RV makes me uneasy. So I proceeded with caution.

I prefer the plastic wall anchors since they are less damaging and easier to remove if needed. I’m also not a fan of having something metal sliding around should the fastener need to be pushed through because it can’t be removed otherwise. The metal ones are pretty permanent.

I mostly use command outdoor strips unless there is going to be any weight then I use anchors. The vinyl will stretch and buckle if there is any weight on the strip.

Some helpful info about luan walls and pulling on things that are screwed to it. It can help to reduce the strain on the fasteners when removing a plug from the strip by also using outdoor command strips in addition to the screws. This helps to spread out the tugging wiggling force on the fasteners that can eventually split the luan and pull right out.

I removed a hanging hook thing that my rigs PO installed. The one I was putting up was larger and lower on the wall. The holes turned out well after pulling out the plastic wall anchors. filling with wood filler and touching up with a matching color. I mashed the vinyl wallpaper back into the hole which helped it to be smoother.

A word of caution. I would look at your wiring diagram to find out where your wires are. My 120 runs near my table but I have a different rig obviously.
There can be conduits where everything feeds.

For the new holes. First I poke a probe into where I want the hole. I have a long darning needle I use it isn’t sharp enough to puncture a cable. The yarn through the eyelet helps pull it back out. This gives me the depth as well.

I try not to drill with too much effort because all you really need is the opening in the luan to be large enough to tap the anchor into place. Of course if you have a stud you should use a stop to prevent the drill going deeper than the thickness of your wall.

One reminder. Honestly I thought everyone checked fastener length. Until I had my husband help me with changing the bracket on the countertop. He drove a screw that was too long into the extension part and popped a crack into it. I wanted to cry.
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Old 08-09-2018, 02:31 PM   #7
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No holes

https://www.command.com/3M/en_US/com...180809202951:s
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:07 PM   #8
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I don't drill ANY holes. Use Command Strips for everything needed. They are awesome just get the correct product. Have a clock hanging on them and its heavier than a power strip. Get a small power strip.
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:10 PM   #9
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Not a good idea if there is any weight. I found this out the hard way. Glad it was in the closet.

On vinyl wallpaper which is in most RVs it will pull off the board behind it and stretch the vinyl. I had a spot that completely pulled off the wall leaving a bubble. I also have a manufactured home and did the same thing in the storage room.

Drywall no problem.
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:18 PM   #10
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Wall Anchors/Screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by Forkyfork View Post
Not a good idea if there is any weight. I found this out the hard way. Glad it was in the closet.



On vinyl wallpaper which is in most RVs it will pull off the board behind it and stretch the vinyl. I had a spot that completely pulled off the wall leaving a bubble. I also have a manufactured home and did the same thing in the storage room.



Drywall no problem.


The OP wants to secure a power strip. A very few ounces.
I have secured pictures in heavy frames with Command strips for years.
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:23 PM   #11
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I vote for the command strips for lite weight.

1" plastic anchors for heavier stuff.

1" plastic anchors to fix blind hold downs.
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampDaven View Post
The OP wants to secure a power strip. A very few ounces.
I have secured pictures in heavy frames with Command strips for years.
I have used strips for frames. I don’t pull on them or wiggle them to get plugs unplugged. This is under a table nobody is going to use both hands.

I hung a small computer speaker from a lightweight command hook and that pulled the vinyl off the wall.
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:51 PM   #13
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Fleetwood recommends that when attaching to the walls, because you are really working with 1/8" plywood at the best, is to use high expansion pop rivets like these. These rivets have wings that expand over more of the wall surface from behind.

I used these rivet to mount a terminal strip along the kitchen counter top, a towel bar, a shelf over the lavatory sink, and some hooks for hanging clothes.

For the power strip, I would rivet a mounting late and then attach the power trip to the mounting plate.
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:18 PM   #14
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I refuse to put holes.. Command strips or super strong 3M VHB double sided tape. The tape is used to hold airplane panels so it's STRONG. Works perfect.
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