Water Supply for my RV

[B Root]

Check into using black poly for the supply line, typically available in 100 or 300’ rolls. Increase the diameter of your line to 1” minimum to help avoid at least some friction loss. 200 psi rated. Think of future use of your investment in materials and time, maybe locate outbuilding at the site?

[garywilson]

I just got your query today, so scanned over the answers.
Ref water line- as at least one mentioned, go with 1" to compensated for the friction of the line. 3/4 will get you the pressure, but you won't have much volume. Once turned on, stream will be reduced (probably around 10 lbs per 100'). Stay with Pex. If it freezes, it will probably still be fine with no leaks.
At the trailer, underground valve box. Run pex from the valve to the trailer. To prevent freezing, just put it in pipe insulation (cheap) with a thermostat controlled heat tape.
If you are having to run the electric as far as the water, massive wire. Look at the charts for amp needed.

[jamesham]

We have had the same experience as you are about to start except we were building a new house in the wilderness, not recovering from a fire. If you are going to have a back hoe, be sure to lay everything out with ground spray paint before you start, and mark anything left over from the house that you want to keep.

Unless you are in the woods, there will be codes, permits, inspections, and maybe even noisy HOA rules that determine the specs.

You have a good plan, but I would make these changes:
1. Increase the water line to 1 inch instead of 3/4.
2. Run electric wire size and number of wires for 220 volts. You will not use one of the hot wires if running 30amp RV plug, but will have it available in the future if you ever upgrade to 50amp RV, or build a shed or workshop on the RV site.
3. Getting rid of the waste water is governed by so many EPA laws that you will have few options. If local septic tank required, make it at least 1000 gallons, and run the drain field large enough to cover the output of the replacement house. If public sewer system is involved, code will tell you exactly what they will permit.
4, It is possible to rent a large LP tank of 500 to 1000 gallons to get by while living in the RV. Then the LP company will come take away the eye sore when you move back into the house.

[QUOTE=thecityman;5041212]Greetings! I recently lost my home to a fire (everyone is fine), and I ask my insurance company if, rather than them

[vhcambrian]

<<<What I'd really like to do is just run a line from my camper to my septic tank 200 feet away....and it IS downhill. But I only got 40 feet of sewer line with my RV and even that was pretty expensive. >>>

You want a macerator: Flojet 18555000A 18555-000A Portable RV Waste Pump (I have the other brand [sewerflo] and you will have to jerry rig it to hook to a hose) and 200' of good minimum 3/4" contractor grade water hose and clear 90 degree sewer hookup: Camco RhinoFLEX 90-Degree Swivel Fitting, clear so you can see when its empty and then clean. A 10' hose for hooking to bathroom faucet and putting down toilet.

I live in mine on my property. Make sure you know the ordinances. They changed the ones here in September so that you may not live in a travel trailer on your own property. I now have a very expensive attorney to fight it.

Good Luck

[thecityman]

Originally Posted by smellsmoke

I am a public insurance Adjuster and deal with rv rentals when you have a fire.
The Insurance company will not buy you an rv but will pay to rent it for as long as you're home is under repair. Get a rent to own contract and submit it to the Adjuster.

[/SIZE]

You are 100% correct (as you know) and I've done pretty much what you suggested. i first tried to get insurance to just buy me an RV to live in, but just as you said, that was a no go. So I proposed to them that I buy a new RV with my own money, and they give me the monthly stipend they allow for housing while the home is being rebuilt. WHat I should point out, and one of the reasons I was so anxious to do this, is that if it takes just 7 months to fix my house- and all indications are that it will take much longer- then they monthly payment they have agreed to give me will completely pay for my new RV. SO at the end of the day I'm almost certain to end up with a free RV or at least one that is almost free. They have also agreed to some of the set-up costs (water and electric). I don't want to make it sound like I'm glad my house burned- heaven knows I'm not- but at least I'll get some benefit from it.

I loved some of the other recent posts here. Hearing about the challenges some of you have faced and the solutions you've found really make me fell like I can make it through my little problems. As of today everything is working good in my rv. My water pressure is indeed a little low, but its certainly usable and even if I never improve it it won't be a big deal. Shower still sprays, just not real hard. I take 5 min showers so its just not a big deal. Everything else is working out with the help of the kind folks here!

[PaulAchuff]

Here is what I did to my MH this winter. It cost me $260 for the 1 1/2" thick R 7.5 insulation board and another $26 for the silver duct tape. I also put 4" PVC pipe and insulation around my sewer line and ran heat tape around the water pipe coming out of the ground. I also have a heated water hose. I had the local propane company bring in a 100 gallon propane tank and hook it up to my supply line.

I live in a very cold part of the Rocky Mountains and so far everything is holding up fine...even on those cold nights in the 10s and low teens.

[INDEPENCORPS]

I don't recall seeing anyone warn you to put a freeze protected pressure gauge on the water going to your RV. You could destroy a lot of expensive stuff and get a flood if you over pressure some of the stuff. Also, I would have a valve near the rv that could easily turn off so the water pressure isn't on but when you need it every few days.

Also, just like a sprinkler system has a backflow protection to keep water from your garden going back into the potable water, I think the same would be a darn good if not in fact required. If you are city manager there must be some decent lic'd plumbers who could and would want to be helpful.

Same thing with solving the black water to your septic. These are not things to risk doing wrong. Contaminate your own property and anything that is downhill from it, like your neighbor's lettuce patch.

And, as a lawyer who has represented govt entities the last 35+ years, now that you have put this out there, I would be carefully to always obey your laws. First of all, it makes things safer for you and your neighbors, second, it will keep you from being embarrassed by your political adversaries.

[janelewbill]

I agree with B Root. Enlarge your pipe to at least 1" to mitigate friction loss. Buy a roll of at least 1" plastic pipe that is rated for water supply and bury it. Once you get to the RV, put in a hydrant what is freeze proof and put stone beneath it. It will automatically drain when you turn it off and unhook the supply line to your RV so there will not be danger of freezing. Good luck!

[Redapple]

I am going against current advice. Since you already ran the water and electric, and low water pressure seems to be the only issue, and you seem to be dealing with it, I will simply congratulate you. You have made some tough choices amidst a disaster. Kudos. Keep truckin!

I wish you the best and hope your new construction goes well. Hope to hear some good progress reports on your new house and your rv adventures in the barn!!!

[Red Rocker]

We lived in a 27' travel trailer while our home was being built, didn't have electric or water issues due to it being close by, but for sewer, until we had septic put in, we used a 35 gallon tote, a real PIA to use, but worked for a while. Once the septic was in, we ran a line from the bathroom in our shop to it & at least had indoor plumbing until the house was finished.

[RangerFred]

Providing a low wattage heating source that runs along and is attached to the exposed piping may be your answer. Heat Tracing can be found on-line in various lengths and wattages that simply plug into a 120V outlet. Running the heat trace under insulation such as Armaflex will pretty well guarantee your water supply plumbing will survive the next ice age.

Easily found at Northern Tools, Grainger, and etc.

For one who serves as a project /construction manager in the Pharma world, protecting exposed piping is critical, and this is a common method.

[kssme2]

Get the rent check. I had water damage and lived in my motorhome for 7 weeks. My insurance company would have paid $90.00 per night plus board my 4 cats at $25/night/each. The insurance would have also paid for my meals. I itemized what I paid for my lot rent for my motorhome and it was like pulling teeth to get $56/night. My insurance company also did a poor job with paying the claim. FYI make sure when your insurance company sends a third party estimator out that you have your own estimator at the same time. They won't go for a water hook up since it can be used after your house is fixed. Don't let them put you in the cockroach hotel like they tried with me. That's why I decided to live in my motorhome. Very angry at my home owner's insurance. Go to a hotel with the pool and hot tub.

[Liza007]

I know that someone else commented already about your straw bales
And I hate that you already bought them BUT
the other guy is right. Bad idea.



Rodents are a huge issue and with straw bales, you are just providing the perfect environment for them. I highly recommend you look into foam board insulation that is outdoor rated.


I don't recall seeing if you checked the water pressure before you hooked it in to the camper. If you have a good flow outside and it seems that the faucets are ok, then it's your shower. 6 gallons of hot water doesn't go far. There's probably an additional water restrictor in the shower (just a guess)


The restrictor that the dealer recommended is always great to keep in the kit as some hydrants can blow out your water lines, but you may not need it with your situation.



The good news is that once this is all done, it sounds like your barn will now have water and electricity.