What's less expensive: heating with propane or campground electric?

[RVfixit]

Originally Posted by d23haynes57

All electric heaters have the same energy consumption vs. heat energy produced. Only difference is how that heat is radiated or distributed and how that makes you feel.
This only way to get more heat out of a given amount of electricity is a "heat pump". These can typically provide three times or more heat per watt than resistive heating. There are out temperature limitations, but most will work near freezing and above. Something to consider for future rig purchases or if an existing roof top needs to be replaced.

Yes, but oil heaters are convection and store heat longer than resistive element heaters. Once temp is reached, the element heater shuts off and goes instantly cold whereas when the oil heater reaches temp, even if it cycles off it retains heat in the oil and will continue to heat until it drops below its temp setting.

I am only speaking from experience but I found the oil heater to run less and keep the temp more stable than the element type that I used to have.

You are absolutely correct in stating that a 1000w oil heater and a 1000w element heater use exactly the same power when on due to the resistance being the same regardless of heat delivery method.

Safe Travels!

[Dave Pelletier]

Originally Posted by RVfixit

Yes, but oil heaters are convection and store heat longer than resistive element heaters. Once temp is reached, the element heater shuts off and goes instantly cold whereas when the oil heater reaches temp, even if it cycles off it retains heat in the oil and will continue to heat until it drops below its temp setting.

I am only speaking from experience but I found the oil heater to run less and keep the temp more stable than the element type that I used to have.

You are absolutely correct in stating that a 1000w oil heater and a 1000w element heater use exactly the same power when on due to the resistance being the same regardless of heat delivery method.

Safe Travels!

beyond that; they both use the same power for the same BTU's provided.....the only reason the oil one provides heat when there is no power to the element is that it's radiating heat the element previously put into the oil....there is no free ride. An electric/oil heater feels nicer due to being able to provide heat when the element is off, moderating the heating spikes but it uses the exact same amount of energy to provide the same amount of heat.

Dave

[Bill Gail]

Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier

beyond that; they both use the same power for the same BTU's provided.....the only reason the oil one provides heat when there is no power to the element is that it's radiating heat the element previously put into the oil....there is no free ride. An electric/oil heater feels nicer due to being able to provide heat when the element is off, moderating the heating spikes but it uses the exact same amount of energy to provide the same amount of heat.

Dave

What I've found through both usage and research is an oil heater (also called an oil-filled radiator) is more efficient than a convection heater because oil heaters retain heat better, meaning they can maintain a consistent room temperature while using less energy over longer periods, whereas convection heaters heat up quickly but need to run more frequently to maintain warmth which requires more energy . The convection heaters also employ a fan to distribute the heat which is also a power draw .
So the oil radiator puts out heat for a longer period of time for the same amount of energy consumed .
This in addition to it being a safer form of heat .

[TB673]

Originally Posted by TonyMac

Also depends on what you're camping in. Many RVs use the furnace to keep the wet bay from freezing. If you're using electric, either supplementally or solely, the furnace may never come on, thus never supplying heat to the wet bay.

If the OP really wants to go only electric, he could turn the thermostat FAN control to ON instead of AUTO (if equipped) and the fan would run constantly and circulate the warm air thru the ductwork.

Tim

[Dave Pelletier]

Originally Posted by Bill Gail

What I've found through both usage and research is an oil heater (also called an oil-filled radiator) is more efficient than a convection heater because oil heaters retain heat better, meaning they can maintain a consistent room temperature while using less energy over longer periods, whereas convection heaters heat up quickly but need to run more frequently to maintain warmth which requires more energy . The convection heaters also employ a fan to distribute the heat which is also a power draw .
So the oil radiator puts out heat for a longer period of time for the same amount of energy consumed .
This in addition to it being a safer form of heat .

They are great heaters but they are NOT more efficient.....KW in = BTU's out. It's a common myth.

https://green-energy-efficient-homes...e-heaters.html

Dave

[d23haynes57]

Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier

They are great heaters but they are NOT more efficient.....KW in = BTU's out. It's a common myth.

https://green-energy-efficient-homes...e-heaters.html

Dave

But for some, they feel better, make you more comfortable, and that is a goal.

[chuckftboy]

Generally it is cheaper to heat the RV with electric heaters of some type as there is no loss of air to serve the wet bay. Typically all the make-up air for the LP furnace comes from inside the RV. If 10% of that air is lost to the wet bay it will be made up by cold air infiltration back into the RV. That air will come in from around windows, roof vents and any opening that is not air tite from outside.

This is also why an Aqua Hot or Oasis is so efficent as there is only recurculation and very little to no air loss.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by TonyMac

Also depends on what you're camping in. Many RVs use the furnace to keep the wet bay from freezing. If you're using electric, either supplementally or solely, the furnace may never come on, thus never supplying heat to the wet bay.

Temps in 20's.........radiant heat may not provide 'freeze' protection so I would use propane at night and that electric in daytime

Frozen piping/burst piping is not worth the worry about cost between one heat source vs another

[Jim.B1]

I am currently travelling from Ontario to Florida in (January) and running my fridge and furnace on propane non stop.
The fridge runs at 35F and the furnace 67F.
I am boon docking the entire way and temps have been down to 18F at night.
Just for the fun of it I measured my cost after the first 48 hours, and it worked out to be $0.77 / hour.
I was pleasantly surprised to learn how reasonable it is using propane.

[db4570]

OP here. I don't think my cheap-ola Wildwood has any sort of "basement" heating. It doesn't really have a basement. Just a loose plastic cover over the frame. So I don't think the propane furnace has any advantage there. I am using a heated supply hose and heat tape on the outside drain plumbing. I am hoping the tanks have enough thermal mass to not freeze over the few cold hours overnight, and that the supply lines under the floor somehow stay liquid from heat soaking through the floor. So far, so good.

I just refilled a propane tank at Tractor store today and it was $17. More than I expected. I'm going to check the electric meter and try to get a feel for exactly how many KWH it uses in 24 hours.

I prefer electric heat because it is quiet and easy to zone. And I don't have to lug propane tanks to the Tractor store every couple of days. The propane furnace still has that new hot furnace smell, which I don't like, even though it has a couple dozen hours on it. As cheap as I am, I won't squabble over a couple of dollars a day one way or the other.

And yes, oil filled radiators are very nice and quiet and safe and comfortable, but they are heavy, and in my obsession to minimize weight I use a nice little fan-forced heater that works great and is very quiet. And the built-in "fireplace" to supplement if I need it.

[hamm2018]

Originally Posted by db4570

OP here. I don't think my cheap-ola Wildwood has any sort of "basement" heating. It doesn't really have a basement. Just a loose plastic cover over the frame. So I don't think the propane furnace has any advantage there. I am using a heated supply hose and heat tape on the outside drain plumbing. I am hoping the tanks have enough thermal mass to not freeze over the few cold hours overnight, and that the supply lines under the floor somehow stay liquid from heat soaking through the floor. So far, so good.

Even the ceroplastic covering gives some protection. Generally, a heated underbelly (basement) is accomplished by running a heat duct from the furnace and leaving the end open to the area.

[Hit_the_Rhod]

If you are at a fixed location, particularly one which you own or lease, having a larger tank delivered by the local propane company makes a lot of sense. Plus you will be purchasing propane at a significant discount for household use, as opposed to filling up 20lb gas grill containers at the local propane fillers.

In addition, many suppliers will provide an "Introductory special rate" (ours did) for the initial fill after you sign up with them. So, for our 120 gallon tank, the introductory rate was about 25% off of the regular rate, a rate which was STILL lower than what I would have received if I took containers in to be filled at my local Ace Hardware, TSC, etc.

[zrock2010]

From past experience and seeing the electric bill for the camp ground i was working at electricity was running around $500 per month in the winter per unit that was running electric heat. we were unmetered and people did not care the site rent barley covered the hydro. No mater how many times we would tell people to use their furnace system most would not, but then when their water froze up it was our fault..LOL.. People like that would get asked to leave.

[SafariBen]

Originally Posted by db4570

OP here. I don't think my cheap-ola Wildwood has any sort of "basement" heating. It doesn't really have a basement. Just a loose plastic cover over the frame. So I don't think the propane furnace has any advantage there...

Typically the ductwork runs under the floor, so there is some leakage and some benefit to prevent freezing.



Also, heat tapes and heated hoses are not ideal in colder weather, dump and fill when needed, walk out the hoses so they're empty. That will make a bigger difference in cost than the difference between propane and electric at the rates you mentioned.