When is level level?

[varmonter]

I have a 2 foot level. I put in on the bumper
To see if i need a board or 2 under the tires.
Then i put in on the floor inside the door
For front to back level..its really a matter of close
Enough for the fridge and fryingpan.

[LETMGROW]

My refrigerator is on the passenger's side of my coach while my bathroom door is on the driver's side. If I open either the refrigerator or bathroom door and they stay put without swinging open or closed on their own, I'm level.

[Mudfrog]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Level.....that is for fridge operation
Use level on fridge frame/freezer floor etc

***Comfortably level is the standard
Level enough that you are comfortable walking, sleeping etc
Set glass half full of water on counter and eyeball it
Tilted...not level
Close...level enough

Yep! I was taught some 40 something years ago that the absorption refrigerator was the main reason for leveling. I've kept a bubble level in all of my rigs ever since. Placing the level in the freezer floor definitely get's it about perfect but in all actuality, is probably a bit overkill on newer units these days.

Our rig is over 18 years old. First thing I did when we got it was to place the bubble level inside the freezer, level the rig to center that bubble, then adjust a separate bubble level that's mounted at the driver's seat to match. I have checked a time or two since but so far have not had to ever do any re-adjusting.

[daryl123]

If the bathroom door doesn't open or close itself were level

[Dav L]

I use an electronic 3 axis level sensor in front floor and rear floor.
If they show a difference, then the chassis is twisted and needs to be rectified before moving slides in or out.

Some day I'll integrate that into the auto leveling system to replace the single sensor (front under floor) that it uses.

[oh no]

Like post 14 said level the refrigerator. them install your out sided levels

[bill_delong]

we are new to RVing and recently bought our Class A used so we don't have any experience with what the level situation was when new.

There is an "Auto" level with our rig, but we've found that the slide for the master bed tends to "sag" about an inch off level. We noticed this when sleeping on our bed the first night, our heads felt sunken down, so I placed a level on the counter top of the slide and sure enough it wasn't level. Since then we've switched to "Manual" mode after using the "Auto" level and then raise the driver side of the rig until our level is centered on the master slide which takes priority over the rest of the rig.

What's nice is that all of doors have a natural tendency to close themselves with this configuration making it a win-win for us, ha!

[BoJango]

There are three pages of comments about leveling or what's level. I haven't seen anyone comment about the accuracy of the level (tool) used. I have found mid-priced levels in stores that were not accurate and I doubt most RVers buy the expensive ones. I'm sure some do. Check them there before purchasing them to make sure.

[ByeTheWay]

I get different reading everywhere I put my level. My bride checks level with a can on it's side on the kitchen counter.

[glwinger]

I make sure my frig is level, or very, very, close. First front back on the freezer frame, then left and right on the freezer floor. I use a 9 inch Johnson metal frame level. Not cheap but accurate.

I've found my countertop next to the fridge reads the same, so that's where I use it. I've also used my Iphone level app. It's within 1 degree of the bubble level. Close enough.

Trying to get everything perfect will drive you crazy unless you want to use 1/2 inch shims on the leveling blocks. Then wait for the ground to settle.

[09 harley]

Originally Posted by MCCOHENS

Thinking the frame of the trailer would be a good indicator of level I epoxied a small level to it. After a few uses it became evident that the bed, fridge, kitchen table, floor were not level with the front of the trailer frame. The difference was at least an inch of ball coupler height. No the frame is not bent, as far as I can tell. So time to chisel off the level, and start over. Anyone else have this happen?
TIA

Put a level on the floor. Level the trailer. Turn the level to get front to back. Now that both are done get the small two pack of levels and stick one to the front and one on the side. Done.

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by BoJango

There are three pages of comments about leveling or what's level. I haven't seen anyone comment about the accuracy of the level (tool) used. I have found mid-priced levels in stores that were not accurate and I doubt most RVers buy the expensive ones. I'm sure some do. Check them there before purchasing them to make sure.

I haven't seen a level that wasn't accurate enough for the non critical nature of leveling an RV. The ones that are typical for RV specific usage are the cheapest, cheesiest levels I have seen. But good enough.

The sensors I use are extremely precise. But way overkill. They don't cost any more / less for what I needed electronically for the implementation.

I will guess that if not an RV specific bubble level, then RVrs would buy a level from HomeDepot intended for house building projects. Any of those will be way good enough.

An RV fridge needs to be reasonably level for proper operation, but there is a pretty wide spec that is acceptable. Most people notice that amount of unlevel even without a bubble level. I suspect most that post here are just very particular on degree of level.

[BobtheRVer]

Usually I eyeball it to start. Then I go inside and take my bullseye level and place it on various surfaces until I find one that is close to level. At that point I call it good and crack open a cold one. If the beer slides off the table and hits the floor I know I have more work to do. This method saves alot of time and frustration. Good luck.

[Cristos]

... is the ONLY real measure of level.