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Old 09-18-2016, 05:37 PM   #29
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I lived in Indiana where the temperature gets below zero. I have used the compressor blowout method as explained above for 15 years and no problem. I never put anti freeze into the lines. I do put antifreeze into grey and black tanks. I do each faucet one at a time and make sure all moisture is blown out of faucets. I make a list of each part (faucets, low water drain, etc) Check off when done so I don't forget one.
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:26 PM   #30
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I usually blow mine out ( pain in the butt ) then do 3-4 gallon of antifreeze. I know belt AND suspenders,$12-$ 16 is chump change, seems like everything RV repair wise starts at $600.

However, I could use some advise. I have a plug with a tire core valve that screws into the water inlet. I would like to find a connection that I did not have to push in and hold, to air up the system. I never seem to get it filled. It's like hold the air hose, go inside open one drain. Come back out, repressurize, go n and open one more valve....about 10 times going in and out. Then it sounds like there is water gurgling in the line somewhere.
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:48 PM   #31
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DGBPokes... Get yourself one like this. Then just set your air pressure regulator to the correct pressure and no more running in and out.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-19-2016, 04:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthpawHD View Post
For everyone that says just add some antifreeze and pump it through, how exactly is that done? Are you dumping it in the fresh water tank and pumping through? If not, what is being hooked up to what then?

I used compressed air last winter but I'm open to something different.
read the manual for your unit. Ask whoever you bought the unit from. Ask with model and year here and somebody might know.

On our first one there was a multi valve setup at the water panel. One pattern was for winterize. The connection was 1/2 NPT that I bought a tubing fitting for and a couple of feet of vinyl tubing to use as a suction hose. Current one has T and tail with a 1/2 NPT plug screwed into the tail fitting that I unscrew and put in the same tubing fitting and tubing. Valve next to the T cuts off water from the tank so the line will suck antifreeze. As was said, some units require an added pump. Some folks do their own way by dumping a lot in the bulk tank. There are probably other ways.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:17 AM   #33
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PERFECT...... thanks Kirkout, on order today.
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:28 PM   #34
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Old 09-24-2016, 06:56 AM   #35
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My set up is a little different.
First off, where the engineers decided to put the pump, I can not get to it without dismantling a cabinet. So if it goes tits up, it'll be heck to get to to replace. I can barely see it through the cobweb of hoses in the cabinet.
The docking station where the water hose hooks up to has a lever to select city water or tank fill only, there's no winterization setting. Also there is no gravity fill tube for the FW tank. So to winterize, I had to buy a pump to pump antifreeze in thru the city water and then I pump some into the fresh water tank and suck some thru the pump and then let the remaining antifreeze drain out of the FW tank. I suck antifreeze up from the tank to make sure the pump is winterized.
Come spring when I de-winterize, I sanitize the FW tank & system really good with bleach and you can't tell there was pink juice was even in the FW tank.


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