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Old 06-01-2007, 11:40 AM   #1
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<span class="ev_code_RED">Upgrade Your Fan-Tastic Vent to a Wireless Remote</span>

My new Fantastic Vent Fan Upgrade with Wireless Remote arrived recently and I just wanted to share with you the installation procedure that I accomplished with out installation instructions. (I found out later they were missing oops!)

I called technical support and they talked me through a few key issues and I was able to proceed. 800-521-0298 The number was located right on the box.

Made in the USA the 6600 Upgrade Kit promises to transform any "Fantastic Vent" or "Create a Breeze" unit into a top of the line, hi-speed 920 SCFM, manual or auto opening & closing dome, reversing, rain-sensored unit using an RF Remote Control. The remote can be used in manual or automatic mode. The manual mode allows you to select 1 of 14 speeds by percentage of fan speed. The Auto function allows you to dial in a temperature setting as to when you want the unit to begin working. The auto range is from 60? to 90? F.


Fantastic Vent Fan 6600 Upgrade Kit arrives in a box containing quite a bit of <span class="ev_code_GREEN">"green"</span> packaging made from recycled materials.

The enclosed hardware poly bag contains all the electrical connectors you will need to accomplish the installation. I used my own connectors from my wiring kit.


The main components of the upgrade kit include new pre-wired interior assembly with electronics, RF remote control, auto lift motor and arm, wall cradle, AA batteries included and electrical connectors and extra screws.

Preparing to install the kit, address the fan", "Hello Fan!" (Ed Norton). The orientation that I will use will be from the right of the coach looking toward the street side. No need to fear, find a #2 Phillips screw driver. Remove the screw from inside the manual lift knob. Remove the 4 retaining screws from the old housing.


Remove the existing interior assembly 4 screws. Take the opportunity to clean the interior of the housing before continuing. Note the ground wire directly attached to the dome cut out switch.

The unit will pretty much drop out from the frame still attached to one wire. Cut the black wire coming in from the side of the enclosure that goes to the fuse assembly. You need to keep about 6 to 8 inches inside the opening. Strip off about 7/16" of insulation and crimp on a blue butt connector. This is the "Hot" 12 volt wire. The (white) ground wire will be connected directly to the dome cut out switch. It features a bullet connector. Remove same cut the bullet (close) off the end of the white wire. Strip 7/16' off the insulation and crimp on a "blue" butt connector. Use the strip gauge on the tool.

Remove the diode board from inside the old housing.

Remove the red wire from the diode board. Remove the black wire from the diode board. Remove the diode board, 2 screws. Cut the end of the red wire "click" about 1 " from the end of the spade connector. Strip off about 7/16" of insulation, both ends, and keep the spade end for later. The black jumper from the rotary switch to the diode board is no longer needed. Remove the plastic retaining clip off the clear frame toward the rear of the unit that holds the red wire. Using your fingers work the red wire out of the housing by pushing or pulling the wire out into the dome area through the fan blades. I tried using a 3/32" Allen wrench to remove the fan set screw but it wouldn't budge.


View of modified wiring and connectors. Note bullet connector pulled off of the dome switch.

Get your cordless electric drill and chuck up a 3/16" drill bit. Look at the front of the unit close to the dome cut out switch post and you will see an existing hole. Run the drill through the hole to make it about a 1/16" of an inch bigger.


View of relocated fan power wire, cut, crimped with existing blade connector. Drill out existing hole (shown) with 3/16" drill. The post with the open end at the top of the picture is the dome activated fan cut off switch. The ground wire jumper provided in the kit from the reversing switch will connect here.

Bring the red motor wire you pushed through and locate that toward the front of the enclosure. Bring the wire down through the blades and fashion a temporary wide fish hook type of bend. Fiddle with and position the end of the wire in the hole you just drilled out. It'll come right down in the hole. Get your needle nose or Gerber Multi-Tool jaws on the end of the wire and pull it straight down while observing the wire inside the dome. Do not pull the wire too tight away from the motor housing make sure it's a little loose. From the motor, I brought the red wire down close to the clear cross member and used a tie wrap to hold the wire in place. I cut the tie wrap and spun the nut upward. Crimp-on a blue butt connector on the red wire. At this point you should have the white and black wires made up with blue butt connectors. Locate the short spade connector you previously cut off the diode board and crimp it back on using a blue butt connector.

Finishing up the wiring:

<LI>Crimp the white of the interior assembly to the white wire.
<LI>Crimp the black wire to the black in the interior assembly.
<LI>Plug the red spade wire onto the opposite lug from the white tail on the reverse switch.
<LI>Plug white wire with the bullet connector on the reverse switch up to the dome cut out switch. I used my Multi Tool don't push too hard.

That's it for wiring ...


Remove and replace existing lift mechanism with provided lift arm. You can retain the old lift arm slider in the cover.

One of the nice features here is the motorized lift motor. In order to git'r'done you have to remove the old lift mechanism and replace it with the new lift. Close the dome, it's easier. Remove 2 screws on the old lifter. Push up on the dome with a stick or something that won't poke a hole in the dome and work the end of the lift bar down toward front of the enclosure, toward the hinge basically. There's a large hole in the slide bar and you can work the end through the opening and out of the enclosure.

Get the new lift bar and reverse the process just about. It's easier if the lift bar is oriented in the closed position. Push the roller through the opening. Push the dome upward a bit engage the roller in the bar and continue to guide the assembly forward in the slot. Once it's all the way to the rear, with the dome closed at this point, it'll sit up in the housing just about where it has to go. Reinstall the screws, not too tight. I chose not to go up on the roof of the motorhome and remove my MaxxAir-Vent just to install the new slider. The old one will work just fine.

I've got all the work done through the opening and around the blades without going up on the roof.


View showing lift arm slider with dome closed. R&R with the dome closed.


Fan fully wired prior to closing the interior assembly. Remove the new screen to facilitate the positioning of the fan wires.

The new interior assembly will require 5 screws. 1 additional screw is included in the hardware package. I restored the screen and the installation was complete.

I chose not to install the "Rain Sensor" because I would have had to go up on the roof and I don't see the need for it so I tucked it in the side of the housing when I installed the interior assembly. If you do not have a Maxx-Air vent I would definitely install the rain sensor.

Lift the interior assembly in place and position the wires so they are all in the void around the enclosure and install 5 screws. Done!


MaxxAir's Fan Mate 800 available from RV Upgrades.

OK so now I'm ready to see if this thing works. I tried working the controls on the fan unit itself before I buttoned it up and I couldn't get it to work. I got out my test light and checked everything and it all looked OK to me and it should be working.


The Hand Remote for the Model 6600 can be wall mounted in any location in your RV. The wall mount cradle is included.

So I had a brilliant idea, why don't I try the remote control. Before I got going too far with the remote I made sure the directional switch was selected for "Out" and that the dome was closed down. Well that was it. Once I started pushing the Auto/Manual/Off (AMO) button the dome started to open. There are LEDs on the remote unit and it'll show you the mode you're in by continuing to push the AMO button. I noticed that when I cycled through the auto, manual and pressed the button a 3rd time and let off, the dome began to close.

If you are using a MaxxAir 800 like I have the dome will raise until it hits the dome. the motor will over torque and it will shut down.

So Whoop! There it is! I installed the unit in about a lazy hour or so. If I wasn't busy shooting pictures I would have done this a lot faster. The retail price of the unit may vary depending on the retailer but the MSRP is about $160.00.


New auto lift motor. Push for "Auto" and "Pull" for manual opening. The 5th screw goes here.


The 6600 Upgrade Kit features bi-directional flow.


Featuring "Rain Sensor" technology the on/off switch is located here. Note the location of the power fuse.

I want to thank Fantastic Vent fan Corporation for their support for the iRV2.com National Rally by providing a "12v Portable Constant Breeze" unit for one of our door prizes.

That's it!

For additional information please click on this link: Model 6600 with Hand Remote



Fan-Tastic Vent
2083 South Almont Avenue
Imlay City, MI 48444
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Old 06-01-2007, 11:40 AM   #2
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<span class="ev_code_RED">Upgrade Your Fan-Tastic Vent to a Wireless Remote</span>

My new Fantastic Vent Fan Upgrade with Wireless Remote arrived recently and I just wanted to share with you the installation procedure that I accomplished with out installation instructions. (I found out later they were missing oops!)

I called technical support and they talked me through a few key issues and I was able to proceed. 800-521-0298 The number was located right on the box.

Made in the USA the 6600 Upgrade Kit promises to transform any "Fantastic Vent" or "Create a Breeze" unit into a top of the line, hi-speed 920 SCFM, manual or auto opening & closing dome, reversing, rain-sensored unit using an RF Remote Control. The remote can be used in manual or automatic mode. The manual mode allows you to select 1 of 14 speeds by percentage of fan speed. The Auto function allows you to dial in a temperature setting as to when you want the unit to begin working. The auto range is from 60? to 90? F.


Fantastic Vent Fan 6600 Upgrade Kit arrives in a box containing quite a bit of <span class="ev_code_GREEN">"green"</span> packaging made from recycled materials.

The enclosed hardware poly bag contains all the electrical connectors you will need to accomplish the installation. I used my own connectors from my wiring kit.


The main components of the upgrade kit include new pre-wired interior assembly with electronics, RF remote control, auto lift motor and arm, wall cradle, AA batteries included and electrical connectors and extra screws.

Preparing to install the kit, address the fan", "Hello Fan!" (Ed Norton). The orientation that I will use will be from the right of the coach looking toward the street side. No need to fear, find a #2 Phillips screw driver. Remove the screw from inside the manual lift knob. Remove the 4 retaining screws from the old housing.


Remove the existing interior assembly 4 screws. Take the opportunity to clean the interior of the housing before continuing. Note the ground wire directly attached to the dome cut out switch.

The unit will pretty much drop out from the frame still attached to one wire. Cut the black wire coming in from the side of the enclosure that goes to the fuse assembly. You need to keep about 6 to 8 inches inside the opening. Strip off about 7/16" of insulation and crimp on a blue butt connector. This is the "Hot" 12 volt wire. The (white) ground wire will be connected directly to the dome cut out switch. It features a bullet connector. Remove same cut the bullet (close) off the end of the white wire. Strip 7/16' off the insulation and crimp on a "blue" butt connector. Use the strip gauge on the tool.

Remove the diode board from inside the old housing.

Remove the red wire from the diode board. Remove the black wire from the diode board. Remove the diode board, 2 screws. Cut the end of the red wire "click" about 1 " from the end of the spade connector. Strip off about 7/16" of insulation, both ends, and keep the spade end for later. The black jumper from the rotary switch to the diode board is no longer needed. Remove the plastic retaining clip off the clear frame toward the rear of the unit that holds the red wire. Using your fingers work the red wire out of the housing by pushing or pulling the wire out into the dome area through the fan blades. I tried using a 3/32" Allen wrench to remove the fan set screw but it wouldn't budge.


View of modified wiring and connectors. Note bullet connector pulled off of the dome switch.

Get your cordless electric drill and chuck up a 3/16" drill bit. Look at the front of the unit close to the dome cut out switch post and you will see an existing hole. Run the drill through the hole to make it about a 1/16" of an inch bigger.


View of relocated fan power wire, cut, crimped with existing blade connector. Drill out existing hole (shown) with 3/16" drill. The post with the open end at the top of the picture is the dome activated fan cut off switch. The ground wire jumper provided in the kit from the reversing switch will connect here.

Bring the red motor wire you pushed through and locate that toward the front of the enclosure. Bring the wire down through the blades and fashion a temporary wide fish hook type of bend. Fiddle with and position the end of the wire in the hole you just drilled out. It'll come right down in the hole. Get your needle nose or Gerber Multi-Tool jaws on the end of the wire and pull it straight down while observing the wire inside the dome. Do not pull the wire too tight away from the motor housing make sure it's a little loose. From the motor, I brought the red wire down close to the clear cross member and used a tie wrap to hold the wire in place. I cut the tie wrap and spun the nut upward. Crimp-on a blue butt connector on the red wire. At this point you should have the white and black wires made up with blue butt connectors. Locate the short spade connector you previously cut off the diode board and crimp it back on using a blue butt connector.

Finishing up the wiring:

<LI>Crimp the white of the interior assembly to the white wire.
<LI>Crimp the black wire to the black in the interior assembly.
<LI>Plug the red spade wire onto the opposite lug from the white tail on the reverse switch.
<LI>Plug white wire with the bullet connector on the reverse switch up to the dome cut out switch. I used my Multi Tool don't push too hard.

That's it for wiring ...


Remove and replace existing lift mechanism with provided lift arm. You can retain the old lift arm slider in the cover.

One of the nice features here is the motorized lift motor. In order to git'r'done you have to remove the old lift mechanism and replace it with the new lift. Close the dome, it's easier. Remove 2 screws on the old lifter. Push up on the dome with a stick or something that won't poke a hole in the dome and work the end of the lift bar down toward front of the enclosure, toward the hinge basically. There's a large hole in the slide bar and you can work the end through the opening and out of the enclosure.

Get the new lift bar and reverse the process just about. It's easier if the lift bar is oriented in the closed position. Push the roller through the opening. Push the dome upward a bit engage the roller in the bar and continue to guide the assembly forward in the slot. Once it's all the way to the rear, with the dome closed at this point, it'll sit up in the housing just about where it has to go. Reinstall the screws, not too tight. I chose not to go up on the roof of the motorhome and remove my MaxxAir-Vent just to install the new slider. The old one will work just fine.

I've got all the work done through the opening and around the blades without going up on the roof.


View showing lift arm slider with dome closed. R&R with the dome closed.


Fan fully wired prior to closing the interior assembly. Remove the new screen to facilitate the positioning of the fan wires.

The new interior assembly will require 5 screws. 1 additional screw is included in the hardware package. I restored the screen and the installation was complete.

I chose not to install the "Rain Sensor" because I would have had to go up on the roof and I don't see the need for it so I tucked it in the side of the housing when I installed the interior assembly. If you do not have a Maxx-Air vent I would definitely install the rain sensor.

Lift the interior assembly in place and position the wires so they are all in the void around the enclosure and install 5 screws. Done!


MaxxAir's Fan Mate 800 available from RV Upgrades.

OK so now I'm ready to see if this thing works. I tried working the controls on the fan unit itself before I buttoned it up and I couldn't get it to work. I got out my test light and checked everything and it all looked OK to me and it should be working.


The Hand Remote for the Model 6600 can be wall mounted in any location in your RV. The wall mount cradle is included.

So I had a brilliant idea, why don't I try the remote control. Before I got going too far with the remote I made sure the directional switch was selected for "Out" and that the dome was closed down. Well that was it. Once I started pushing the Auto/Manual/Off (AMO) button the dome started to open. There are LEDs on the remote unit and it'll show you the mode you're in by continuing to push the AMO button. I noticed that when I cycled through the auto, manual and pressed the button a 3rd time and let off, the dome began to close.

If you are using a MaxxAir 800 like I have the dome will raise until it hits the dome. the motor will over torque and it will shut down.

So Whoop! There it is! I installed the unit in about a lazy hour or so. If I wasn't busy shooting pictures I would have done this a lot faster. The retail price of the unit may vary depending on the retailer but the MSRP is about $160.00.


New auto lift motor. Push for "Auto" and "Pull" for manual opening. The 5th screw goes here.


The 6600 Upgrade Kit features bi-directional flow.


Featuring "Rain Sensor" technology the on/off switch is located here. Note the location of the power fuse.

I want to thank Fantastic Vent fan Corporation for their support for the iRV2.com National Rally by providing a "12v Portable Constant Breeze" unit for one of our door prizes.

That's it!

For additional information please click on this link: Model 6600 with Hand Remote



Fan-Tastic Vent
2083 South Almont Avenue
Imlay City, MI 48444
__________________
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Old 06-01-2007, 03:57 PM   #3
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So can your neighbor turn your fan on and off??

I used to be able to turn my buddies exterior radio on and off when he had a Horizon.

-Tom
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Old 06-01-2007, 04:49 PM   #4
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
So can your neighbor turn your fan on and off?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I can turn on the fan from inside my kitchen so the answer would be "Yes". Now there is an infinite amount of frequencies for garage door openers so I'm thinking there's gotta be a few different ones for the vent fans.

Good question though. I like the RF remote because now I can control the fan speed from bed in case it gets a bit too cool in the morning. We both like to sleep with the window open when it's nice out.
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Old 06-01-2007, 09:21 PM   #5
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Depends on how cheap they went on the RF. It's obviously digital, and there are 10's of thousands (and considerably more depending) of coding schemes out there. I doube these are rolling coders. If they went to Joe's control shop and ordered 5000 of the same remote radios it's entirely possible that you could open all of their vents. I'll have to try it..
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Old 06-02-2007, 06:22 AM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SCVJeff:
Depends on how cheap they went on the RF. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I have not known Fan-Tastic Vent to go "cheap" on ordering components. All the pieces of the kit appear to be of the highest quality.

I have 2 Fan-Tastic OEM installed units in my coach and they continuously perform as expected. My lavatory fan is controlled by a wall mounted switch. The domes are double hulled.

I will call TS on Monday to ask about frequency assignments.
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Old 06-02-2007, 06:32 AM   #7
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Nice upgrade and product review posting
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Old 06-02-2007, 06:39 AM   #8
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Another very nice posting. With you around, who needs the Mfgrs. instructions? I see you remember The Honeymooners ,too. Thanx.
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Old 06-02-2007, 06:45 AM   #9
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Someone could accidentally open your vent and if it rained you could get water in your coach unless you had the rain close feature.

-Tom
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Old 06-02-2007, 08:57 AM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
Someone could accidentally open your vent and if it rained you could get water in your coach unless you had the rain close feature. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That's why I posted if you don't have a high flow vent cover you do need to install the "Rain Sensor".

It's a small board and it needs to installed by punching through a knockout in the frame of the existing vent. You then clean the area of the knockout using a razor knife. The hole looks like a small rectangle with a slight perpendicular notch in the center of the knock out. The sensor is mounted on the top of the frame with the sensor element facing upward and the board is secured with a screw.



According to F-TVF - "Do Not" install this type of cover over the top of a Fan-Tastic Vent Fan because it'll reduce your flow by 80%.

I appreciate the appreciation!
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Old 06-02-2007, 11:11 AM   #11
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Did you install this on your living room vent??
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Old 06-02-2007, 01:07 PM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
Did you install this on your living room vent?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Yes I did. I kept the bath vent the way it was.
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:34 PM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SCVJeff:
Depends on how cheap they went on the RF. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I have not known Fan-Tastic Vent to go "cheap" on ordering components. All the pieces of the kit appear to be of the highest quality.

I will call TS on Monday to ask about frequency assignments. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I agree 100%, but hi-tech isn't exactly their cup of tea. Did you get a response from them on this?
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Old 06-08-2007, 01:13 AM   #14
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Thanks Mike,I may order one of those kits.I just installed Fantastic fan with the thermostat .I have a rain intrusion problem during hard driving rain.It is splashing up under the lid and thru the screen.May have to invest in one of those vent covers.
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