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Old 07-09-2019, 12:48 PM   #1
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Victron BMV 712 Smart battery monitor

I did not see a thread on this so:
Purchased a Victron 712 batt. monitor. I having problems getting it wired properly.
Has anyone installed one of these on a motorhome that has 4 six volt batteries with two sets of 2 batteries wired in series to make 12 V and and then the two 12 V sets wired parallel. My rig also has the starter batter wired to the house batteries (with a relay in between)?

The Victron 712 is supposed to monitor the house battery bank and the starter battery through a shunt.

If anyone has this set up can you help me with a wiring diagram?

The diagram that was provided by the vendor is not correct.
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Old 07-09-2019, 12:59 PM   #2
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The BMV-712 allows you to monitor the House Bank. The chassis battery VOLTAGE may be monitored. The second monitoring option can also be, mid point voltage on a large bank, or Battery Temperature with an optional wiring harness with temp sensor. You pick one.

For the Main wiring layout you just have to make sure that all the ground wires from the coach that were connected to the house bank now goes to the load side of the shunt...and then a single cable from the battery side of the shunt to the most negative terminal of the house bank. The means that ALL loads pass Thur the shunt on the negative side of the circuit.

The BMV came with two fused red positive+ leads. One will go to the most positive on the House it powers the BMV...that is the primary input. The other will go to the most positive+ terminal on the chassis battery...if that is the option you choose. Again, it only monitors the chassis battery voltage.

Hope that clears up the wiring.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:03 PM   #3
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https://www.victronenergy.com/batter...2-smart#movies
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:26 PM   #4
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The 712 only monitors the house batteries through the shunt. The chassis batterues are not monitored through the shunt.
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Old 07-11-2019, 12:49 PM   #5
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drawing attached

Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Martin View Post
The BMV-712 allows you to monitor the House Bank. The chassis battery VOLTAGE may be monitored. The second monitoring option can also be, mid point voltage on a large bank, or Battery Temperature with an optional wiring harness with temp sensor. You pick one.

For the Main wiring layout you just have to make sure that all the ground wires from the coach that were connected to the house bank now goes to the load side of the shunt...and then a single cable from the battery side of the shunt to the most negative terminal of the house bank. The means that ALL loads pass Thur the shunt on the negative side of the circuit.

The BMV came with two fused red positive+ leads. One will go to the most positive on the House it powers the BMV...that is the primary input. The other will go to the most positive+ terminal on the chassis battery...if that is the option you choose. Again, it only monitors the chassis battery voltage.

Hope that clears up the wiring.
Here is a diagram of my system
I believe that it is wired per your description.
The result is that I get proper voltage reading from the house batteries 13.2 - 13.8. However I get a positive amp reading of 15+ amps while hooked up to shore power and about 14+ amps when unplugged.

I get no voltage reading from the starter batteries.
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Old 07-12-2019, 07:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trf85373 View Post
Here is a diagram of my system
I believe that it is wired per your description.
The result is that I get proper voltage reading from the house batteries 13.2 - 13.8. However I get a positive amp reading of 15+ amps while hooked up to shore power and about 14+ amps when unplugged.

I get no voltage reading from the starter batteries.
Wiring looks fine...

Might double check the settings in the Victron Connect App. That is where you specify the function of the second channel, in your case a second battery bank. Long shot, since I think that is the default choice anyway.

I can understand the positive amp reading when Shore power is connected...the converter may be charging the bank. The positive amps going into the battery with no shore power...unless solar, or some other source...that is a head scratcher.

A Clampmeter that can measure DC amperage would be handy. You can compare readings to those displayed on the BMV...and also check leads to see where to trace the current. If the clampmeter is in disagreement with the BMV, there may be an issue.

Things that can adversely effect the amp reading in a BMV is the shunt setup. Victron has a choice of shunt values in their setup menus, make sure to select the one appropriate for your shunt. Again, I believe the shunt that it comes with is the default value.

I think the amp reading should read correctly right out of the gate. The SOC reading will need to calibrate...normally by watching a full charge, and comparing data to the aH value you gave it. Of note...if you have four 210aH batteries, for example,,,and you wire them in series-parallel. The value for the Victron would be 410aH...since you have them configured to be two 210aH 12v batteries. Not 840aH, which is a common mistake. That should only mess with SOC reading accuracy though. Not impact the amp readings.

Clampmeter might help you sort this out..
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsheetz View Post
The 712 only monitors the house batteries through the shunt. The chassis batteries are not monitored through the shunt.
I purchased the BMV 712 because it does monitor both the house and chassis batteries per attached installation guide and because it has built in bluetooth.

The quick guide drawing show that it is for the 700 & 702, but I'm told that the 712 was added to the line later and that figure 3 is the proper wiring guide for the 712.
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:43 AM   #8
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Thanks, I have a clamp meter. When I get back up to the rig I'll make sure that it will read DC.
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trf85373 View Post
Thanks, I have a clamp meter. When I get back up to the rig I'll make sure that it will read DC.
If the clamp meter reads differently than the BMV display...there may be something wrong with that unit. I would try to return it for a replacement and see if that gets you up and running.

You might notice the orange and blue wires piggybacked onto my Victron Shunt. That is the sense wires for my Magnum ME-BMK. They both can use the same shunt...locking at the millivolt drop in voltage across the shunt. This lets me quickly compare reading. If one is drastically different...Iíll use the Clampmeter to determine the faulty device.
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Old 06-16-2020, 09:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Martin View Post
If the clamp meter reads differently than the BMV display...there may be something wrong with that unit. I would try to return it for a replacement and see if that gets you up and running.

You might notice the orange and blue wires piggybacked onto my Victron Shunt. That is the sense wires for my Magnum ME-BMK. They both can use the same shunt...locking at the millivolt drop in voltage across the shunt. This lets me quickly compare reading. If one is drastically different...Iíll use the Clampmeter to determine the faulty device.
Does it draw power constantly off house and chassis batteries at all times, even when the battery disconnect is off? Looks wired directly to batteries as I am sure it probably must be to measure correctly. How much draw? Is it an issue ever?
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Old 06-16-2020, 08:22 PM   #11
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Victron Specification...

“Current consumption: 0,7Ah per month (1mA) @12V and 0,6Ah per month (0,8mA) @ 24V
Especially Li-ion batteries have virtually no capacity left when discharged until low voltage shutdown. After shutdown due to low cell voltage, the capacity reserve of a Li-ion battery is approximately 1Ah per 100Ah battery capacity. The battery will be damaged if the remaining capacity reserve is drawn from the battery. A residual current of 10mA for example may damage a 200Ah battery if the system is left in discharged state during more than 8 days.”

A battery disconnect shouldn’t change the BMV-712 draw...it is directly wired to the battery bank, unaffected by the disconnect. I will draw current from the primary bank...I believe the second battery is just a voltage reading...if you elect to monitor two banks.
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Old 06-17-2020, 07:08 AM   #12
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is the .7 amp-hour/mo draw for the shunt and display in a stored and unused condition (ie not taking any readings from the display unit)? i would think that would be the case. but it has the capability to communicate with your cell phone. is it continually tried to connect to your cell phone even when in this unused storage mode? i would think that would take more power. does it shut off the cellphone communications feature until you go over to it and perhaps wake it up my pressing a button on its display?
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Old 06-17-2020, 08:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
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is the .7 amp-hour/mo draw for the shunt and display in a stored and unused condition (ie not taking any readings from the display unit)? i would think that would be the case. but it has the capability to communicate with your cell phone. is it continually tried to connect to your cell phone even when in this unused storage mode? i would think that would take more power. does it shut off the cellphone communications feature until you go over to it and perhaps wake it up my pressing a button on its display?
Great question! Most bluetooth devices are "constantly" on to an extent looking for a signal.
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:03 AM   #14
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If you connect the power source for the BMV 712 after the battery disconnect the BMV will draw no power when the battery disconnect is turned off. I have my fused power connecting for my BMV712 connected to the positive bus bar. All devices using battery power are connected via the positive and negative bus bars. My batteries are connected as follows.

Positive bus bar -- 400 amp fuse -- Battery Disconnect --
-- battery bank -- BMV Shunt -- Negative bus bar

As you can see nothing directly connects to the batteries. The battery disconnect isolates all circuits from the batteries and the shunt can measure all flow through the batteries. The 400 amp fuse is for the inverter/charger which is connected to my positive and negative bus bars. All other DC circuits connected to the bus bars have their own breakers or fuses as appropriate for the wire sizes of the attaching devices.
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