Frank's Super Voltage Booster Model FA 30

[Pubtym]

This post seeks member advice and recommendations concerning my Frank's Electronics Super Voltage Booster (Model FA 30)@ $399. I purchased the first unit from Frank's approximately 3 months ago. I have already exchanged the first unit with Franks's distributor in CA....for what I/we (Franks Rep) assessed as a unit malfunction with possible long term damage to numerous electrics in my coach. Franks Product information is posted @http://www.voltagebooster.com/

Overall electrical performance by both booster units follows. Actual voltage being delivered from FA 30 to the coach was verified in two locations ..First verification was a digital readout on a Progressive Industries Inc Model EMS PT-30C. The second verification was from a digital voltage meter plugged into a coach 110V outlet in the coach living area.

1. FA -30 specs state unit should be remain in bypass (green light) during all "Normal" voltage (118-120) input. Actual performance: After 45 minutes with the FA-30 plugged in to 30 amp home outside recepticle/120-123V...and a coach amp draw of 4-6 amps...the FA-30 switches directly to high boost 132 V(red & green lights). At one point, the EMS PT-30C indicated/maintained Error Code "PE3" "Previous High Voltage" with the 132V readout on the EMS PT-30 and digital meter in the coach.

2. FA-30 specs state that high voltage cutoff occurs @ 129V or higher. Actual performance: High voltage (132V) remained on line from the voltage booster for 3 hours until I finally unplugged all. Again...throughout the 3 hours actual line voltage entering the FA-30 was 121-123V.

In a direct call to Frank this morning.. I reviewed the data posted here. His views, as I understood them.."132 V is no problem...but I can understand your concern". He requested I return the unit for adjustment of the voltage potentiometer.

I asked Frank about predelivery testing of the units. I understood him to say that units are pretested to 30 amps for at least 6-8 hours at the distributors location in Temple City, CA.

My two units have a test date magic marked on the side.

Advice? Return-repair-refund?

Thanks

Pubtym

[Pubtym]

This post seeks member advice and recommendations concerning my Frank's Electronics Super Voltage Booster (Model FA 30)@ $399. I purchased the first unit from Frank's approximately 3 months ago. I have already exchanged the first unit with Franks's distributor in CA....for what I/we (Franks Rep) assessed as a unit malfunction with possible long term damage to numerous electrics in my coach. Franks Product information is posted @http://www.voltagebooster.com/

Overall electrical performance by both booster units follows. Actual voltage being delivered from FA 30 to the coach was verified in two locations ..First verification was a digital readout on a Progressive Industries Inc Model EMS PT-30C. The second verification was from a digital voltage meter plugged into a coach 110V outlet in the coach living area.

1. FA -30 specs state unit should be remain in bypass (green light) during all "Normal" voltage (118-120) input. Actual performance: After 45 minutes with the FA-30 plugged in to 30 amp home outside recepticle/120-123V...and a coach amp draw of 4-6 amps...the FA-30 switches directly to high boost 132 V(red & green lights). At one point, the EMS PT-30C indicated/maintained Error Code "PE3" "Previous High Voltage" with the 132V readout on the EMS PT-30 and digital meter in the coach.

2. FA-30 specs state that high voltage cutoff occurs @ 129V or higher. Actual performance: High voltage (132V) remained on line from the voltage booster for 3 hours until I finally unplugged all. Again...throughout the 3 hours actual line voltage entering the FA-30 was 121-123V.

In a direct call to Frank this morning.. I reviewed the data posted here. His views, as I understood them.."132 V is no problem...but I can understand your concern". He requested I return the unit for adjustment of the voltage potentiometer.

I asked Frank about predelivery testing of the units. I understood him to say that units are pretested to 30 amps for at least 6-8 hours at the distributors location in Temple City, CA.

My two units have a test date magic marked on the side.

Advice? Return-repair-refund?

Thanks

Pubtym

[Pubtym]

Update. After discussion with two technical advisors/reps from recognized RV after market companies, I have decided that a full refund request is appropriate from Franks's Electronics. I called "Doug", Frank's Distrubution Rep in Temple City, and he agreed to process the refund upon return of the unit. Letter request and unit in the mail to Franks Electronics today.

For those who are considering purchasing an RV voltage booster...think again about this posting. Their are other RV Voltage/Transformers on the market.

[olddude]

I just recived my powermaster voltage booster,looks good in and out,hope it works as well as it looks.It is a 30 a with 1700 jules of surgguard.Hope i never need eather one but better safe then sorry.If you are looking to buy another voltage booster look it up and give them a call.They are very nice people and i think 1 or both of them eather worked for franks or hughes.I think they were not happy with what kind of unit the coustmer was getting so they went on there own.

[BryanL]

interesting such high dudgeon about potential long term damage to the coach from 130VAC feed. About the only thing moderately high AC will do is to cause incandescent lights to burn brighter and have a bit shorter life.

It appears the mfg did the 'right thing' with a defective unit, though.

The Powermaster and Hughes don't appear to have the steps the Franks has so their single boost level is rather larger than the two that the Franks has (when working correctly).

Just think, you wouldn't need any of these if the grid was working properly!

[BobRay]

Originally Posted by BryanL

interesting such high dudgeon about potential long term damage to the coach from 130VAC feed. About the only thing moderately high AC will do is to cause incandescent lights to burn brighter and have a bit shorter life.

Voltage of a little over 130V burned out my electric toothbrush charger (actually smoked) and at the same time, killed the electronics panel in a portable heater.

YMMV

[Pubtym]

Originally Posted by BobRay

Voltage of a little over 130V burned out my electric toothbrush charger (actually smoked) and at the same time, killed the electronics panel in a portable heater.

YMMV

Key point...in excess of 130V...most electrical company line standard is 120V + or - 10V.

[BobRay]

Originally Posted by Pubtym

Key point...in excess of 130V...most electrical company line standard is 120V + or - 10V.

The owner of the park in question (in Louisiana) told me that they ran the 50amp circuits at around 130V so they'd still have 120 when everyone had their air conditioners on -- it was a cold day.

A protector that cut out at 132V might have protected my electronics (or not). There may have been a surge involved as well, in which case the protector would probably have saved me.

[Pubtym]

Originally Posted by BobRay

The owner of the park in question (in Louisiana) told me that they ran the 50amp circuits at around 130V so they'd still have 120 when everyone had their air conditioners on -- it was a cold day.

A protector that cut out at 132V might have protected my electronics (or not). There may have been a surge involved as well, in which case the protector would probably have saved me.

You won't believe some of the stuff park owner's have told me when I questioned their low voltage below 110V...

Surge protector use....always...cheap insurance ..

I believe most protectors you see are designed to cut out at 129 V.

I have the Powermaster. It has surge protection too..see one of my postings above.

[Gary RVRoamer]

My Surgeguard #40250 (hardwired, part of transfer switch) considers <102v to be low and >132v to be high and shuts off the power source.

[Pubtym]

Originally Posted by RV Roamer [Gary]

My Surgeguard #40250 (hardwired, part of transfer switch) considers <102v to be low and >132v to be high and shuts off the power source.

Yup...different companies sometimes have different cutoff or standards...

The importance item for me is when the surge protector cuts off...I favor equipment that cuts off before exceeding 130-132 V. All surge gards have some accuracy error. If there is inherent error in sensing and readout..I want it conservatively on the safe side..

When I referenced low voltage...below 110V...with most of the utility power company industry-residential standard being 120V plus or minus 10V.. I'm refering to it being low as to the industry supply standard ....not yet long term damaging low.

Most surge guard manufacturers generally consider 102V-103V as damaging low..and most will disconnect line volts transiting below that level..

Personally, I like to run volts to my Motor Home as close to 120V or slightly better (plus 5 V) as much as possible..thus I use a voltage booster all the time at RV parks. After extended observations of volts running into my coach versus systems amp draw..it's pretty clear to me...running on the higher side yet within voltage standard reduces required amp draw by as much as 4-6 amps...thereby reducing increased amp generated electrical component heat....and potential long term collateral component damage.

[mudpuppy]

I had a similar problem with my unit from Franks. It would become more sensitive to low voltage after it warmed up for fifteen minutes ( settings approximately five volts off so boost would cut in to soon and cut off set to high.) I opened it up and reset the "set points" after letting it "warm up" and all is well now.

[Pubtym]

Originally Posted by mudpuppy

I had a similar problem with my unit from Franks. It would become more sensitive to low voltage after it warmed up for fifteen minutes ( settings approximately five volts off so boost would cut in to soon and cut off set to high.) I opened it up and reset the "set points" after letting it "warm up" and all is well now.

I envy your know how to readjust Frank's..I would have too...but would have not known up from down in that box..

Please explain those "Set Points"...where they are...how to..what they look like..

[mudpuppy]

I used a variac and digital meter to adjust the input voltage and a digital meter on the output to monitor that voltage. On my unit there were a series of pots located at the top of the main circuit board. I have the adjustment procedures stored away somewhere and will try to locate and post them. Of corse I voided any warenty I had when I opened up the unit to make the adjustments.