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Old 04-12-2022, 06:37 PM   #1
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12 volt fridge

I am planning on taking out my dometic propane fridge and replacing with a new norcold 12 volt fridge. My dometic has what appears to be 4 wires running to power the 12v aspect of the fridge. Consist of 2 12awg brown wires and 2 12awg white wires. The norcold I am told runs on about 5 amps.
1. Can I reuse these wires to the existing 15 amp fuse on my power converter box to power the new 12 volt fridge?
2. Why does the existing fridge have 2 brown and 2 white wires running to it?

Looking at power converter box appears that both furnace (thermostat) and dometic fridge are powered off this fuse so 2nd set of wires are possibly the wires running to the furnace?��
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Old 04-12-2022, 08:01 PM   #2
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What is the Model of that Dometic Fridge?

What brand/model is furnace?

RV Furnace Amp draw can be 9A......depends on brand/model
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Old 04-12-2022, 08:05 PM   #3
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FWIW my OEM Norcold 12 volt refrigerator is on itís own 20 amp fuse.
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Old 04-13-2022, 07:18 AM   #4
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Looks like the furnace is an Atwood 7920-11 18k but. The sticker says 3.4 amps. I apologize but can't quite figure out how to post a pic take by my phone to this post.
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Old 04-13-2022, 07:22 AM   #5
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My furnace

This is the furnace sharing th 12awg wire and the sticker and model on the Norcold fridge in question
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Old 04-13-2022, 10:40 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
What is the Model of that Dometic Fridge?

What brand/model is furnace?

RV Furnace Amp draw can be 9A......depends on brand/model
Of note the installation guide for the norcold 12v fridge recommends atleast 12awg with 15 g fuse however I don't think it was intended to have a furnace drawing 4 amps also attached
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Old 04-13-2022, 10:59 AM   #7
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Late to the party here , so I'll ask questions to catch up.

Do you see a separate fuse in the distribution panel for furnace ?

The fridge and furnace are major 12 volt load systems and MOST RVs would have them on separate fuses and wires.

Can you disconnect and separate the two wires at the back of the fridge to see if both are powered ?
To confirm if the manufacturer used the stud at the rear of the fridge as a junction block .
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Old 04-13-2022, 11:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgonzales View Post
Of note the installation guide for the norcold 12v fridge recommends atleast 12awg with 15 g fuse however I don't think it was intended to have a furnace drawing 4 amps also attached
Definitely, especially if the fan draws a bit more current during start-up and starts while the fridge is running (or vice versa). The 5 amp draw suggests a Danfoss/Secor BD35F compressor or similar. Mine is rated 5.2 amps but can draw up to 6.4 amps for a minute or two when starting in cold weather (or maybe it's hot weather, I don't recall).

Given the critical nature of the fridge, it really should be on its own circuit. Or on a circuit that you know has only an amp or two of other load on it.

The current draw of the propane fridge is miniscule so it can share most any 12V circuit. The fridge can share a circuit but only one that has very little other load on it.
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Old 04-13-2022, 07:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Late to the party here , so I'll ask questions to catch up.

Do you see a separate fuse in the distribution panel for furnace ?

The fridge and furnace are major 12 volt load systems and MOST RVs would have them on separate fuses and wires.

Can you disconnect and separate the two wires at the back of the fridge to see if both are powered ?
To confirm if the manufacturer used the stud at the rear of the fridge as a junction block .
There is only one fuse in the box labeled fridge and furnace. The wires can be separated as they are twisted together along with a third short pigtail wire that run to the fridge. I suspect that they did run a wire to the fridge and jumped from there to the furnace.
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Old 04-16-2022, 06:48 AM   #10
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Thanks everyone for the input I have decided to do what I had initially thought would be right and tried to avoid which is to run new wire, will run 10awg for fridge and place on its own fuse in power center. May also replace the current negative busbar as it has several ports doubled up straight out of the factory, dependent on time factor. Just needed a little encouragement in the correct direction.
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