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Old 11-27-2024, 03:20 PM   #1
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2007 Fleetwood 40X Power Gear Electric Leveling

After I press the proper buttons on the control panel to put in the over-ride mode, I can move all all jacks up or down except the door side rear. When I try to move it up, the panel flashes like its going to retract, but after a second or two, the panel power off and starts beeping.

So, I tried to raise it manually but using a socket and a drill (like I did on one of my previous units), but it won't budge up or down. I removed the power and same problem. I even tried one of the other jacks that work, but can't get them to budge either using the drill. My previous unit had hydraulic jacks. Am I missing something on the manual operation procedure?

I called support and they said to replace the panel. Don't sound right.

Jack Controller is 140-1224 Rev 0K
Control panel is 140-1226

Any ideas?

FYI the reason I'm in the over-ride is due to the bad brake on the door side front. I replaced it and it's working fine.
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Old 11-28-2024, 06:35 AM   #2
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Well I will give you my 2 cents.....I have owned a coach with the same electric jack system since 2008. I have removed everyone of the jacks over the years so here we go. I would remove the bad jack (4 bolts+power wire) and bench test it, chances are that it's gooped up from moisture. Clean it up and again bench test it with a 12v battery. Good luck!
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Old 11-28-2024, 12:03 PM   #3
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Thanks for the 2 cents lol. That's my plan if nothing else shows up. I'll have to dig out the wood it's sitting on to get the pressure off it so it can be removed.
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Old 11-29-2024, 05:33 AM   #4
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If you extend the other jacks will that give you some wiggle room?
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Old 11-29-2024, 09:25 PM   #5
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Regarding the jack not retracting when trying to turn that shaft with tools...

Did you shift the brake lever to deactivate the brake?

I also have these levelers and several years ago had a few issues similar to yours.

Moisture got into the rubber boot and corroded the brake which caused the jack malfunction. The motor survived but the brake was not repairable

I had to replace one brake and remove, clean and reseal the boots on the others. No issues since

Please post your progress and solution
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Old 12-02-2024, 10:36 AM   #6
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Vato, where is the brake lever to deactivate the brake? I don't see anything like that and I can't find anything in the manual about it.

Thanks
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Old 12-02-2024, 02:49 PM   #7
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This lever.....

It moves very little to disengage...

Mine had another piece of thin steel that locked the lever into position so it could not be accidentally shifted. It was necessary to lift that clamp to shift the lever. That clamp piece was a different steel which when moisture got into the boot I believe was the reason for the corrosion. Dissimilar metals.....

I removed all the clamp pieces and through them in junk drawer and greased the lever and brake. Then reinstalled the rubber boot with a little silicone and new clamps. Been good for the last 12 years.

Removing the jack is a bit tough as it is heavy, but it's an easy way to bench test as Hayward suggested...

Give that a try... I have a couple of brakes I inherited if you need one let me know....
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Old 12-04-2024, 04:02 PM   #8
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Thanks. I'll give that a try. My jack got damaged when it was over extended upward. Broke the weld. I had it fixed and ordered a new brake. And yes, it's not easy to remove. I got it done. Now that one works fine.
I will get out when it warms up a bit and try to move the level on my door
side rear jack. From pics, it doesn't move much.
My new break didn't have the thin medal strip (not shown, but you referenced it). Did you put it on your new one or did you put it back on your new brake?

I'll post an update later.
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Old 12-05-2024, 04:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maintainin View Post
Thanks. I'll give that a try. My jack got damaged when it was over extended upward. Broke the weld. I had it fixed and ordered a new brake. And yes, it's not easy to remove. I got it done. Now that one works fine.
I will get out when it warms up a bit and try to move the level on my door
side rear jack. From pics, it doesn't move much.
My new break didn't have the thin medal strip (not shown, but you referenced it). Did you put it on your new one or did you put it back on your new brake?

I'll post an update later.
Did your original brake have the locking strip?

You're right the lever doesn't move much and there's a detent so a slight effort to move it...

After seeing the corrosion, I removed all of those thin steel spring locks. I felt there's enough detent on the lever to keep it from inadvertently shifting...

The brake area is pretty much protected from debris and I didn't see a need to keep them on.

I've had to manually raise the jacks on 1 occasion. Didn't have to remove the boot. Was able to shift the lever with the boot in place.

Frankly I don't know why they discontinued these electric jacks. Since removing the locking strips and resealing the boots, I'm on nearly 15 years with no issues.

I would think electric would be more trouble-free then on a hydraulic system...??.. Maybe not?? I'm no expert...lol

For reference, here's the locking piece..
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Old 12-08-2024, 04:57 PM   #10
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Vato,

Finally got under the RV and dug out my wood block. FYI, used a drill with a concrete bit, worked great.
Jack still won't move up or down, even when I moved the brake lever. Removed it and disassembled it. Jack good, motor and gearbox good, but the brake assy won't turn. Can it be cleaned up or should I just replace it? see pic.

I have my old brake assy and I think it's still good. Might just use it. It worked on the front jack, but when it was over-extended, it broke the mount between the brake and the motor (I had a new mount manufactured at a Tool and Die shop).

Again, thanks for all the responses, especially, Vato.
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Old 12-08-2024, 06:53 PM   #11
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Wow. that looks pretty corroded ....

I sent a PM
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Old 12-09-2024, 10:45 AM   #12
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Vato,

I don't see a PM. Can you resend it.

TY
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Old 12-09-2024, 02:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maintainin View Post
Vato,

I don't see a PM. Can you resend it.

TY
coming at you
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Old 12-09-2024, 07:17 PM   #14
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Two thoughts. One, the brake must be released to manually raise the levelers. It is really a simple process, so if it’s not working it’s the brake. Secondly, the magnets on each leg can become gooped up with lubricants and won’t work. The leveler needs to be manually extended past the magnet, cleaned and raised.
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