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Old 07-26-2012, 11:15 AM   #1
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2400 miles and 3 major faults

We just returned from a trip from Martinsburg WV to Fort Gibson OK for my grand daughter's wedding and seemed determined to break everything in our coach in the process!

The generator is dead.... I'm getting help on the R&R on that on another forum. (You ever try to find enough power to run both roof top ACs at a relative's house? -- not happening and 1 AC alone does not defeat 108 degree summer temps!)

Other things that broke:
  1. Awning mount -- going to have to bolt through where lag screws tore loose)
  2. Norcold Fridge - spike killed control board in eyebrow
  3. Slide controller -- get into details below

The fridge is Norcold 682IM. After a power spike from the failing genny I no longer have any lights on the control panel and can't run it in either mode. I did a quick inspection of the board in hopes there would be a bus fuse on it that I could replace, but did not find one.

If anyone can suggest tests I can do to verify the board is bad I would appreciate it. A $300 part is kind of stiff to be playing shotgun part replacement with.

Also; is there a way I can temporarily rig the fridge to turn it on manually (in either or both modes of operation) so I don't have to throw an ice chest in next week?


On the slide controller; it is an "Intelitec Model 300"
The control switch is remote mounted in a cabinet. The led on the remote switch does not light and hitting the momentary rocker does nothing.

I noticed that all of the 12v house lights dim slightly a couple times a minute. I eventually traced this back to the controller by isolating all of the 12v components. Pulling the shared ground lead stopped the dimming. Later I checked further and discovered that leaving the main ground connected and pulling the MPX ground stopped the dimming.

The dimming was not stopped by pulling any other individual wires.

There is a dull click (sounds like a relay) associated with the dimming under the dash.
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:51 PM   #2
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Fixed the broken awning mount. That was the easy one.

I was hoping for insight on the fridge but I guess 80 other people are as lost as I am on that one.
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:38 PM   #3
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Sorry to hear about your issues! At the recommendation of some of the members I use my surge protector while running the generator.
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtermini30 View Post
I use my surge protector while running the generator.
Can't do that very easily if you're generator is hard wired in like ours is.
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:47 PM   #5
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OP:
2. How do you know it's the controller board in the controls and not the main board in the back?
3. Could be a fuse somewhere in line.
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhandler62 View Post
Fixed the broken awning mount. That was the easy one.

I was hoping for insight on the fridge but I guess 80 other people are as lost as I am on that one.
I have never seen this done, but read this http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/domet...ml#post1255904 let us know if you do this and how it worked.
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:01 PM   #7
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If you do not have a good clean 12v's to operate your control boards on fridge it will have problems operating. Here is a PDF for your fridge.
Check 12v fuse on control board may need cleaning for holder believe control board plugs into the control board on face of fridge inside.
It will have things to check plus you maybe should check the supply from your 12v fuse panel with a power spike could be a high resistance connection some place.
Your battery cable connections to your chassis frame should be checked out for loose and dirty connections Gen will have a ground cable to frame also plus your converter to chassis frame all should be checked, tightened and cleaned and use a star washer to keep them tight.
Once you have problems resolved a surge protector maybe a good idea feed off Gen and shore power line.
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:29 PM   #8
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Norcold Service

Bryant RV Services

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf

Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.

Good Info
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
OP:
2. How do you know it's the controller board in the controls and not the main board in the back?
3. Could be a fuse somewhere in line.
On #2 -- I don't. I do need to sort it out because I can't afford to troubleshoot by way of adding new parts. I verified that it gets 12v and 120v power and, for whatever it's worth ... turning the fridge on does make the fridge light work.
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Old 07-27-2012, 06:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Can't do that very easily if you're generator is hard wired in like ours is.
I need to get one. I can't afford all this breakage. :(
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:06 PM   #11
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Both fuses on the power board are good.

I seem to be having a real challenge finding a good manual for this thing because my next step would be to see if I am getting power to the control board.

This link doesn't work. :(
http://www.thetford.com/LinkClick.as...d=477&mid=1254
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:35 PM   #12
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This link has wiring diagrams at the end of it.
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:51 AM   #13
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Does that link work for you? I keep getting the message "Duplicate headers received from server"


OK... opens in IE.... wish all web browsers worked the same ... lol

Thanks
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:48 AM   #14
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I appreciate the suggestions but on the balance.... there doesn't seem to be any way to check the control board. I'm just going to have to spend the $300 and hope it's the right part.

The power board seems (as far as I can tell) to be working and a failure of the cooling unit itself wouldn't manifest as no lights on the control board.
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