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Old 05-14-2016, 01:34 PM   #1
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30 amp plus 20 amp to make 50 amp Adapter?

Several years ago there was a thread here that detailed how to make an adapter that uses a park's a 30 amp and 20 amp plugs to make a 50 amp connector. I can't seemed to find it. Anyone know how?
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Old 05-14-2016, 01:49 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
Several years ago there was a thread here that detailed how to make an adapter that uses a park's a 30 amp and 20 amp plugs to make a 50 amp connector. I can't seemed to find it. Anyone know how?
okmunky
See: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/home-made-cheater-box-106629.html
Or google "rv cheater box".

BTW it is important to know that it will not work if either the 30A or the 20A receptacle is a GFCI.

BTW not only will it work with a 30A and 20A receptacle...with the proper adapters it can also be used with 2 20A... or 2 30A... receptacles.

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Old 05-14-2016, 02:01 PM   #3
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It is just way easier to buy a Y-connector that can either plug into a 30A on one branch and a normal 15/20 amp plug on the other. I think the GFI comment applies but I can say I plug my 50A trailer with this Y-connector into my garage at home and that the GFIC does not trip there. Not taking much load but I just want the battery maintained and to keep the fridge on home power, not propane.
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Old 05-14-2016, 02:05 PM   #4
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I don' how that will work. The 50 amp in the RV is 2feeds of 50 AMPs. Adding the 20 and 30 amp plugs would only be at best 1 50 amp feed. Sounds like an accident waiting to happen. Don't think it would work if you fed it thru an EMS system.

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Old 05-14-2016, 03:14 PM   #5
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Here's the problem as I see it. The current on each neutral is now controlled by the impedance of each the circuits and one of the neutrals could be overloaded. How? So lets say that the 30amp socket has a bit of corrosion on the neutral side, therefore the 15/20 amp socket is going to take up the slack. the breaker will not blow since it is on the hot side. The 15/20 amp neutral side now becomes the side carrying too much of the combined neutral load for the design of the socket. Melts, fire, whatever..

So here's my bottom line, hypothetical, if an inspector came out would the "cheater box" pass inspection?

Also,If the rig has load shedding then it will only detect a 120V 30A circuit and limit you to 30A.--

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Old 05-14-2016, 03:35 PM   #6
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Along with the GFIC problems, you still do not have a true 50 amp service of 50 amps on both legs.

Ken
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Old 05-14-2016, 03:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
Several years ago there was a thread here that detailed how to make an adapter that uses a park's a 30 amp and 20 amp plugs to make a 50 amp connector. I can't seemed to find it. Anyone know how?
Is this for your Shasta MH? If so, you only have 30A service in your coach and it would be unwise to attempt to use 50A input.
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Old 05-14-2016, 03:46 PM   #8
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Along with the GFIC problems, you still do not have a true 50 amp service of 50 amps on both legs.

Ken
I found another cheater box

RV Cheater Box - 50 amps from 30 & 20 - PPL Motor Homes

Is this safe to use for a week or so in a 30 amp park? I'm trying to find a rally venue in the Pacific Northwest in August and many campgrounds in that area don't have 50 amp service.
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Old 05-14-2016, 03:55 PM   #9
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Is this for your Shasta MH? If so, you only have 30A service in your coach and it would be unwise to attempt to use 50A input.
Hi Don,

No, I'm content with 20 amps or boondocking with my solar panels providing all of my power needs. Just trying to find a GC venue and too many parks without 50 amp service.

I didn't know there were such things as cheater boxes. I learn something new here every day.

Say Hi! to Sandee and give Zeus an ear scratching from me.
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Old 05-14-2016, 03:59 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
I found another cheater box

RV Cheater Box - 50 amps from 30 & 20 - PPL Motor Homes

Is this safe to use for a week or so in a 30 amp park? I'm trying to find a rally venue in the Pacific Northwest in August and many campgrounds in that area don't have 50 amp service.
You will see that this is set up to feed a 50A coach. Not for use on a 30A RV.

As mentioned, it won't work with a 20A outlet with GFCI. The user would also have to know how it would work on their coach.

There are also CGs that do not allow them. They are 30As for a reason.
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:31 PM   #11
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Rv 50A service is 12000W (2x 120v x 50a). Rv 30A service is 3600W, 20A outlet is 2400W.

So you see, 3600w + 2400W is not equal to 12000W.

You cannot get rv 50A service by using any 30a and 20a outlet together.
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:57 PM   #12
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Rv 50A service is 12000W (2x 120v x 50a). Rv 30A service is 3600W, 20A outlet is 2400W.

So you see, 3600w + 2400W is not equal to 12000W.

You cannot get rv 50A service by using any 30a and 20a outlet together.
Ok, so not a good idea, then. I'm surprised that Progressive Industries, that makes the surge guards that we depend upon to protect our electrical systems would make and sell cheater boxes. That was the first thing I bought for my new RV -- even before taking delivery. Is theirs different from the other brands on the market? That is other than being almost 3 times the price.

And Don, I wasn't looking to get one for my 30 amp RV. I was hoping that would be an acceptable option for those with 50 amp RVs if I found a GREAT campground that's only fault was 30 amp service. so now I'm back to searching campground reviews.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:29 PM   #13
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And Don, I wasn't looking to get one for my 30 amp RV. I was hoping that would be an acceptable option for those with 50 amp RVs if I found a GREAT campground that's only fault was 30 amp service. so now I'm back to searching campground reviews.
I didn't get that from your first post but got it later. What CG are you looking at and when? 30As might be quite sufficient at cooler temps. We sound that out a couple summers ago in the Upper Peninsula of MI when we lost one of our AC units but remained quite comfortable. in the cooler temps.
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:47 AM   #14
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Rv 50A service is 12000W (2x 120v x 50a). Rv 30A service is 3600W, 20A outlet is 2400W.
So you see, 3600w + 2400W is not equal to 12000W.
You cannot get rv 50A service by using any 30a and 20a outlet together.
marcham
True.

However a "cheater box", (IF it works and IF it's allowed by the campground)... will supply a total of 50 usable AMPs (6,000 watts) to a "so called 50A RV"....30 AMPs (3,560 watts) on one 120V leg/line AND 20 AMPs (2,400 watts) on the other 120V leg/line.

BTW I have one and I use it at my home plugged into 2 non-GFCI out of phase 20A recepticals and get 40 usable AMPs, (4,800 watts), in my "50A coach" via the 50A shore power cord.....(but I find it USELESS in most campgrounds).

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