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Old 12-06-2021, 07:15 AM   #1
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30A Circuit Breaker in front storage has a lot of stuff hooked to it

I redid my electrical system adding solar and LiFePO4 batteries. I moved the batteries into the basement from the front storage to stay comfy. All is good.

One hanging chad I had was a single 30A auto reset circuit breaker in the front compartment where the batteries used to be. It has 7 wires running to it all attached to a single post. That is quite messy. I traced them all and this is the list:

Black = Charge line from tow vehicle
Red = Power reel for 50A cord
Orange/White = Trailer e-brakes
Purple/White = Landing gear
Blue/White = Bedroom slide/controller
Blue/White = Main Slide, Kitchen slide, awning
Green/White = Rear stabilizers

For the life of me, I cannot fathom why these need to run all the way to the front of the trailer to go through a 30A circuit breaker vs. going to the DC power panel and getting a dedicated fuse.

For now, I am going to put in a good 30A circuit breaker and a bus bar to clean up the front storage area. But I am considering running all these wires to the main power panel and giving each of them their own fuse. Any reason not to do this?

Also, they had the e-brake actuator running directly to the battery (it was on the battery side of the 30A circuit breaker). Should I hook that up directly to the battery (with an appropriately sized in line fuse)? I never tow without the main battery switch on, so cannot imagine a time it would not be powered as is.

Appreciate your thoughts.
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Old 12-06-2021, 07:49 AM   #2
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Without knowing a whale of a lot more about how your unit's electrical is layed out, I will offer this. By "ending" the high current path at this point and distributing from there, they can limit the voltage drop for all of those circuits. If you run the primary lead to a point further back, you will need pretty large wire and there will be voltage drop between that point and where you ultimately do split it out into the various loads. Cleaning it up with a bus bar type distribution point is a really nice idea.

Also, each of those circuits should have a fuse somewhere between that lug and the device the lead powers. If what you are telling me is the case, I'm not that excited about their design folks.
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Old 12-06-2021, 08:36 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K7JV View Post
Without knowing a whale of a lot more about how your unit's electrical is layed out, I will offer this. By "ending" the high current path at this point and distributing from there, they can limit the voltage drop for all of those circuits. If you run the primary lead to a point further back, you will need pretty large wire and there will be voltage drop between that point and where you ultimately do split it out into the various loads. Cleaning it up with a bus bar type distribution point is a really nice idea.

Also, each of those circuits should have a fuse somewhere between that lug and the device the lead powers. If what you are telling me is the case, I'm not that excited about their design folks.
I'm not sure it's a voltage drop issue because they ran the wire for the rear stabilizers all the way from the back of the trailer to the front of the trailer. Why not just run it to the DC fuse panel in the middle of the trailer? They ran the wire right by the DC fuse panel to go all the way up front. Same with the slides. The DC fuse panel is 2 ft from the slide control panel. They thought it was smarter to run a wire all the way up front to a CB and then back to the slides instead of just running it through the DC fuse panel. So in their implementation, they are adding tens of feet of wire to implement their design. My thinking is I will eliminate many feet of wire if I just run them to the DC fuse panel.

The wire to the emergency disconnect is 10 ga and has no protection since it is wired directly to the battery. I measured the amp draw @ 13A when the e-brakes are activated. Should I put a 30A fuse in the 10 ga wire? It's a 10' run, so that should protect the 10 ga wire.

They also had the charging wire from the 7-pin hooked directly to the battery. It is also 10ga. The charge line is protected by the 30A fuse in the truck, so I guess that works.

All of the other wires were hooked to the 30A CB after the breaker, so they are all protected by the 30A breaker. All the wires are 10ga, so that works.
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Old 12-06-2021, 08:52 AM   #4
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Here is the factory wiring diagram and my current wiring. I am going to change my current wiring to run the e-brake actuator directly to the battery. The question is whether to add a fuse to that line. I want the truck charging wire from the 7-pin to go directly to through the battery cutoff switch.
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Old 12-06-2021, 11:13 AM   #5
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You don't want to fuse your E-brake, breakaway wiring.

If the trailer disconnects, they're more worried about stopping the trailer then letting the wires get warm.
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Old 12-06-2021, 11:36 AM   #6
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You don't want to fuse your E-brake, breakaway wiring.

If the trailer disconnects, they're more worried about stopping the trailer then letting the wires get warm.
My worry is about the wire going from the battery to the breakaway switch shorting out and melting at any time.

I may get a breakaway kit with a battery and mount it on the pin box. No long wires that could get eaten by a squirrel and short out and melt or start a fire. Everything is all up front on the pin box where it needs to be.
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:18 PM   #7
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I think I have discovered why they run all of this through a 30A circuit breaker. The DC distribution panel only has 2 slots rated for 30A. The landing gear, bedroom slide and main slide all require a 30A fuse. Three 30A loads for two slots won't work. So they just ran it all up to the front and used a 30A circuit breaker. I do wonder why they ran the rear stabilizers up to that CB since it is only 20A but it is 10ga wire, so I suppose that works.

I think I will leave it as is and put in the quality 30A circuit breaker and bus bar. I will install a breakaway kit with its own battery for the emergency breakaway switch. All is good.
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:50 PM   #8
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My 5th wheel
Landing gear wired directly to Battery with its own 30A CB/Auto reset
Slideouts wired directly to battery with its own 30A CB/Auto reset
Rear Stabilizer jacks wired directly to battery with its own 20A CB/auto reset

E-Brake wired directly to battery NO Fuse/CB

7 pin Charge line directly to battery...truck fused

High Amp Draws directly from battery....
Converter doesn't have to provide that amperage just maintain battery
*converters are rated for Full DC Amp load on DC Fuse Panel /charge battery
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:53 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
My 5th wheel
Landing gear wired directly to Battery with its own 30A CB/Auto reset
Slideouts wired directly to battery with its own 30A CB/Auto reset
Rear Stabilizer jacks wired directly to battery with its own 20A CB/auto reset

E-Brake wired directly to battery NO Fuse/CB

7 pin Charge line directly to battery...truck fused

High Amp Draws directly from battery....
Converter doesn't have to provide that amperage just maintain battery
*converters are rated for Full DC Amp load on DC Fuse Panel /charge battery
I like that all of your loads have their own circuit breaker. Makes more sense than having them all run through the same circuit breaker. Although I can't imagine a time where I would be running the landing gear, rear stabilizers or slide outs all at the same time.
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Old 12-06-2021, 03:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
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I like that all of your loads have their own circuit breaker. Makes more sense than having them all run through the same circuit breaker. Although I can't imagine a time where I would be running the landing gear, rear stabilizers or slide outs all at the same time.
Me neither.........but that is how the factory wired it and I am hapy that each circuit has its own protection

As for Battery Disconnect....
The items wired directly to battery do NOT go thru the switch...just 'house' fused items
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Old 12-06-2021, 04:04 PM   #11
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I used something like this for a similar situation and it worked out very well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37308687096...Cclp%3A2047675
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Old 12-06-2021, 04:16 PM   #12
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I used something like this for a similar situation and it worked out very well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37308687096...Cclp%3A2047675
I like that. Instead of a single 30A CB up front, I can have a fuse block. I just ordered a similar one from Amazon.
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Old 12-06-2021, 05:36 PM   #13
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I would go with something like this.

They use auto reset breakers instead of fuses to prevent nuisance blown fuses.

Electric motors can draw high amps when stalled or voltage is low.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-06-2021, 06:08 PM   #14
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I would go with something like this.

They use auto reset breakers instead of fuses to prevent nuisance blown fuses.

Electric motors can draw high amps when stalled or voltage is low.Attachment 350820
I like that even better. I didn't think about the motor loads. So now each motor will have its own 30A circuit breaker. Yeah!
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