Community Forums

Doug427 · 03-30-2020, 09:41 PM

I was told in another thread that to hook up a trickle charger to my 4 x 6v house battery bank, I would hook up the trickle charger to any positive and negative terminal that has more than one cable connected to it. Assuming I got that right (did I ?) I was planning on hooking the charger to these two terminals that I'm pointing to. Would that work? It's a 12v charger by the way.

And again....the pick loaded all sideways. Why is that happening?

YC1 · 03-30-2020, 10:17 PM

Time to buy a voltmeter and do some youtube training.

It appears you have it but it would be malpractice to say positively based on those pictures alone.

Does your RV have a built in charger?

l1v3fr33ord1 · 03-31-2020, 04:53 AM

Doug427-

Myron is correct. If your coach has a built-in charger, and it's of a "modern" type, then you could use that, instead of adding another component.

Two comments on the connections shown:

1) There's an interesting 6-volt connection- the green wire with the fuse. Some older coaches apparently use 6V. I wonder if yours is one of them? By the way, I'd put the cover on the fuse holder, before the corrosion in the holder gets worse.

2) In my opinion, you would benefit by moving the positive and negative connections to busbars. That would eliminate having all those cables terminate on the 12V positive and negative terminals. Examples of busbars here, with higher-amp busbars here. When you have to change out the batteries, a busbar setup should make that a lot easier.

USMCRET · 03-31-2020, 05:12 AM

Doug, get yourself a couple of dogbone adapters, stepping down from 50 amp to 30 amp, and again to 115 volt. They have them on etrailer.com as an example. Then you just plug in to your 115v source and you’re done. I did that for awhile until I discovered I had a readily available 30 amp outlet that I thought was something else.

Sbrownstein · 03-31-2020, 05:24 AM

Lower left and lower right. I too wonder about whatever is connected to that stand alone fuse, since it will only get 6 volts.

If you have an internal charger, agree you will be fine with that alone. BTW, to be totally correct, connections on the bottom right negative should be on the upper right negative to be anally correct on balancing loads...you are fine that way...couldn't resist.

twinboat · 03-31-2020, 05:53 AM

Yes, your finger is pointing to the correct spots.

The small green wire may be a tap for dimming the interier lights.

YC1 · 03-31-2020, 05:56 AM

I would really like to see a better picture of the "fuse". Could be an illusion the way the wires are kind of hidden.

That connection MIGHT be a battery temp sensor. Just a guess.

If you dogbone down and the batteries are low you could trip the shoreline breaker because of a high output from your onboard charger.

Many onboard chargers can be adjusted to put out very low charging which would prevent that problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Positive-Insu...5656188&sr=8-3

I agree with getting most of the connections off the battery. You can tighten these down firmly.

consolenut · 03-31-2020, 06:32 AM

easy way to confirm take a volt meter and probe between the two points you think the charge should connect. if you get 12V between those two you are right. if not try again

Doug427 · 03-31-2020, 07:52 AM

Thanks guys. For sure I'll put a VOM on the two terminals to see if I have 12v there. I have a pretty good charging system in the coach, it was pretty high end in its day. However, the owner/operator is not so bright with these things!

I have the adapters that will take my 50a onboard power cord down to 110v, which is all I have available in my parking spot. The problem I have is I have no idea how to configure the coach once plugged in to charge the batteries without draining something else. I have both a battery disconnect switch and also a control panel for the onboard Magnum inverter. The Magnum control panel has both a charge and inverter button on it. What position would I put the battery disconnect switch in? I normally disconnect the batteries when I park. Do I charge with them connected or disconnected? If I connect how do I keep things like the fridge (residential) from coming on? Do I press the charge button on the Magnum control panel to put it in charge mode? I would assume so....? Do I press inverter button on the Magnum panel? Do I want the inverter on or off? Does any of this charge the engine start 12v batteries as well?

All this is why I was looking at using the trickle charger - it's just simpler for an overwhelmed newbie like me. I'm learning a lot about the coach but the electrical system is still so much of a mystery to me. Of course if the on board charging system works well, I'd sure prefer to use that. I guess I just need to learn how to use it properly, which is probably all about proper switch configuration, I believe. If you experienced guys can help with that, I'd certainly appreciate that.

As for the green wire with the fuse on it, I'll have to head back to the storage place and follow it back to try to see where it goes. I have no idea. It's such a mess in the battery compartment that the green wire was the last thing I was looking at. Bus bars are on the battery compartment rehabilitation project menu. The coach is in great shape, the battery compartment is not indicative of the overall condition of the coach - in fact it stands out like a sore thumb because the rest of the RV is so clean and well maintained and organized, and then there's this mess in there. I'm sort of OCD with organization and cleanliness so this is driving me a bit crazy. My problem is where to do the work. I have the storage 'garage" but it's so tight in there it's tough to work.

jacwjames · 03-31-2020, 08:03 AM

You should check your main breaker panel and see if there is a dedicated breaker for the refrigerator.

I have stored my coach next the house for +12 years, usually plugged into just a 15 or 20 amp circuit. It will keep the batteries up.

YC1 · 03-31-2020, 08:28 AM

With a voltmeter you can answer your question about the switch needing to be on or off.

Check the voltage on the batteries and then toggle the switch you mention. Turn on some lights to get a bit of a load on it. It might take a minute for the voltage to drop IF the switch is involved.

As for the Inverter/Converter, download a manual for it and do some studying.

Leave the button you mentioned off. You do NOT want the inverter running in this situation.

When you are doing your voltage test be sure to measure the engine battery voltage as well. IF it is not very close to the house batteries you can use your trikle charger for that. Once again, more pictures of the battery compartment will help and one of the inverter/charger.

Persistent · 03-31-2020, 08:50 AM

RV'ing requires you to learn how your systems works. In a stick and brick home, the power company manages your power. All the wiring and switching has been provided by an electrician.

In an RV you may have five or six different power sources to accommodate different locations and situations where the RV may be used.

Neumar's often have sophisticated EMS systems to help you do that. You must manage all those systems. If you add a system, it just becomes more complected. The Neumar probably has an electrical management system that makes managing them easier. You can add a maintenance charger. However, you probably already have one installed.

The Neumar has both 120 volt and 12 volt systems. The 120 volt system can run through the inverter from the battery and the 12 volt system can run through the converter/charger to run 12 volt appliances.

120 volt power:
120 volt power sources can be shore power 50 amps 240 volts, shore power 30 amps 120 volts, generator 120 volts, or 120 volt inverter.

12 volt power:
12 volt power sources can be converter/charger, battery, RV engine, and possibly solar. The charger will double as a battery maintainer.

I recommend you get the instruction manual for the Neumar and begin learning. Learn one part at a time and feel free to ask advice on iRV2.com.

Start with your most frequently used location and situation. For example: Long term parking in an RV park using 50 amp shore power cord. What ever the situation, tell us and ask questions how to manage.

It is true, some posters like me get carried away. However, there is always someone who understands your issues and can help.

You will also benefit by learning to manage your batteries. Some links have been added below.

Get a $15 digital volt meter from your local hardware store.

Fully charged batteries will measure 12.7 to 13.0 volts when the Neumar is not plugged in, on generator, engine not running for awhile, and not being solar powered.

12.4 volts is in good condition but needs charging soon. Less than 12.0 needs charging sooner.
13.3 means one of the power sources is charging. This voltage is good for long term storage and is probably what your battery maintainer would provide.
13.6 means charging and Neumar is occupied.
14.4 means batteries are low and charger is working hard to recharge.

Your Neumar EMS probably will tell you all of this, but requires understanding of a lot of the systems.

Battery University https://batteryuniversity.com/

How does the Lead Acid Battery Work? https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...ased_batteries

Charging lead acid batteries https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...d_acid_battery

How to Charge and When to Charge? https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...o_charge_table

How to Store Batteries https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...tore_batteries

Summary of Do’s and Don’ts https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/..._battery_table

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!

US1 · 03-31-2020, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug427

......... I have a pretty good charging system in the coach, it was pretty high end in its day. However, the owner/operator is not so bright with these things!

Nothing to add other than I got a good chuckle out of this.

twinboat · 03-31-2020, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug427

Thanks guys. For sure I'll put a VOM on the two terminals to see if I have 12v there. I have a pretty good charging system in the coach, it was pretty high end in its day. However, the owner/operator is not so bright with these things!

I have the adapters that will take my 50a onboard power cord down to 110v, which is all I have available in my parking spot. The problem I have is I have no idea how to configure the coach once plugged in to charge the batteries without draining something else. I have both a battery disconnect switch and also a control panel for the onboard Magnum inverter. The Magnum control panel has both a charge and inverter button on it. What position would I put the battery disconnect switch in? I normally disconnect the batteries when I park. Do I charge with them connected or disconnected? If I connect how do I keep things like the fridge (residential) from coming on? Do I press the charge button on the Magnum control panel to put it in charge mode? I would assume so....? Do I press inverter button on the Magnum panel? Do I want the inverter on or off? Does any of this charge the engine start 12v batteries as well?

All this is why I was looking at using the trickle charger - it's just simpler for an overwhelmed newbie like me. I'm learning a lot about the coach but the electrical system is still so much of a mystery to me. Of course if the on board charging system works well, I'd sure prefer to use that. I guess I just need to learn how to use it properly, which is probably all about proper switch configuration, I believe. If you experienced guys can help with that, I'd certainly appreciate that.

As for the green wire with the fuse on it, I'll have to head back to the storage place and follow it back to try to see where it goes. I have no idea. It's such a mess in the battery compartment that the green wire was the last thing I was looking at. Bus bars are on the battery compartment rehabilitation project menu. The coach is in great shape, the battery compartment is not indicative of the overall condition of the coach - in fact it stands out like a sore thumb because the rest of the RV is so clean and well maintained and organized, and then there's this mess in there. I'm sort of OCD with organization and cleanliness so this is driving me a bit crazy. My problem is where to do the work. I have the storage 'garage" but it's so tight in there it's tough to work.

You have an inverter/charger in the rig..

Its a combo unit, that charges the batteries,, while on shore power and uses them to make 120 volt power when not on shore power.

Unless someone changed up the cables, it will be directly connected to the batteries.

With that, you can switch off the house battery switch. While it cuts off 12 volts to almost everything, It does not cut off the charging.

There is no converter/charger to look for, because the inverter/charger elemenates that.