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Old 09-18-2021, 05:49 PM   #1
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6 Volt Golf Cart Batteries

I have 4 6volt golf Cart batteries in my MH and have a question about checking voltage on them while all hooked up in the MH. I got 4 different readings from them, 6.86, 6.83, 6.75. and 6.78. Is this good? The reason I'm asking is I let the MH sit for a year plugged into 50amp and never checked my batteries. When I did check them they took over 1/2 gal of water as I pumped it in. On my Progressive Surge Protector I get on L1 reading of 0 amps but on L 2 I get various readings ie==5amps, 0amps, 4amps, 1amp. Is it possible I ruined the batteries or is my Surge Protector having problems? Gotta head out this Tuesday the 22nd, should I replace the batteries even if I might have got good readings on each of them as stated in the beginning of this info?
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Old 09-18-2021, 05:58 PM   #2
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Ok for a fully charged 6 volt battery these are good numbers .

That's the good news .
Bad news is if you're testing them only with a volt meter just after charging , this could just be a surface charge that could dissipate quickly .
You either have to load test the batteries, or let them rest ( 24/48 hours), disconnected from charging and ANY load to see how much , or how little the voltage reading drops .
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Old 09-18-2021, 06:02 PM   #3
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I'm not sure but my advice is to contact a local battery shop and see what they have to say. I don't mean a Batteries Plus type store, but a good, old fashioned, full service battery shop. I once bought a sailboat with golf cart batteries that wouldn't take a charge. I took them to a full service battery shop, they kept them for a day or two, worked their magic and all was good.
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Old 09-18-2021, 06:11 PM   #4
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How old are the batteries?
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Old 09-18-2021, 06:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Ok for a fully charged 6 volt battery these are good numbers .

That's the good news .
Bad news is if you're testing them only with a volt meter just after charging , this could just be a surface charge that could dissipate quickly .
You either have to load test the batteries, or let them rest ( 24/48 hours), disconnected from charging and ANY load to see how much , or how little the voltage reading drops .
Good idea, I shut the 50amp down and plugged the fridge directly to the house 110. I'll check the batteries tomorrow.
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Old 09-18-2021, 06:43 PM   #6
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You can get a cheap load tester at harbor freight. A useful tool to have.

I do not have a surge protector so I was wondering what it would have to do with the batteries.
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Old 09-18-2021, 07:04 PM   #7
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Load testing deep cycle batteries is meaningless as shop will need to plug in CCA to load tester and deep cycle FLA dont publish CCA.
Charge them up and see how they perform. If they don't hold V very long under load they are likely toast..

Resting vs under,old vs charging V for batteries are VERY different and trying to compare them can be very misleading.

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Old 09-18-2021, 08:49 PM   #8
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You can't determine the merit of storage batteries with a static voltage. A starting battery load test won't tell you much either. Something to try that wouldn't involve a complete capacity test would be to put a known load on the batteries for a measured interval of time, say C/20 for 5 hours and by measuring the terminal voltage at that point you can get a rough idea what the capacity would be. A C/20 load for 5 hours represents 25%, and a voltage under load of around 12.0V. If it's substantially less than this it would indicate diminished capacity, connection or charging issue.

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Old 09-18-2021, 08:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Ok for a fully charged 6 volt battery these are good numbers .

That's the good news .
Bad news is if you're testing them only with a volt meter just after charging , this could just be a surface charge that could dissipate quickly .
You either have to load test the batteries, or let them rest ( 24/48 hours), disconnected from charging and ANY load to see how much , or how little the voltage reading drops .
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtjoe View Post
Good idea, I shut the 50amp down and plugged the fridge directly to the house 110. I'll check the batteries tomorrow.
What Skip said

As for the L1 and L2 amp readings........fridge outlet is probably on L2 Buss and the AC element would pull 3-4 amps when energized
And battery charging would pull couple amps
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Old 09-18-2021, 09:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Winemaker2 View Post
Load testing deep cycle batteries is meaningless as shop will need to plug in CCA to load tester and deep cycle FLA dont publish CCA.
Not if you use a good old carbon pile tester or even the old heater element one. They work fine.

The new electronic ones that require that data don't actually load test them - they just look at internal resistance and come up with a health verdict from that.
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Old 09-19-2021, 07:58 AM   #11
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There's a lot of good information here, including specific gravity testing (testers available at any auto parts store):

https://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-s...y-maintenance/

Once you get everything straightened out, consider installing a battery watering system like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Flow-Rite-Pro...e%2C215&sr=8-7

You'll also need the filling kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Flow-Rite-Fil...04RDSQ2K&psc=1

It's not inexpensive but it greatly simplifies the task of keeping your batteries topped off, ensuring as long a life as possible. Just attach the filling hose, put the other end in a jug of distilled water, squeeze the pump bulb until firm. All done, no mess, no need to remove caps, etc.

If you haven't replaced your converter, you should upgrade to a modern one with multistage charging. It will be much kinder to your batteries. If you go for higher wattage than your current converter, you'll need to make sure the wiring from the converter to the batteries is of sufficient gauge. This is what I used on my 2002:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even if you replace your batteries, the above additions are adviseable, although the fill kit won't be necessary if you go with AGM batteries.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:13 AM   #12
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Mostly good advice posted above.

"4 different readings from them, 6.86, 6.83, 6.75. and 6.78. Is this good?"

These readings are the charger output voltages. It takes about 3 hours of no charge or discharge for the voltages to stabilize. Voltage differences will be much more meaningful under static conditions.

Next apply a significant load for a few minutes. Voltage differences under load tell you much more.

Finally, test under load until deeply discharged. Voltage differences under load while deeply discharged will tell you the most.

"On my Progressive Surge Protector I get on L1 reading of 0 amps but on L 2 I get various readings ie==5amps, 0amps, 4amps, 1amp. Is it possible I ruined the batteries or is my Surge Protector having problems?

Surge protector currents have nothing to do with battery terminal voltages. They may show battery charger 120 volt AC current, but have very little to do with battery charge or discharge currents.

"Gotta head out this Tuesday the 22nd, should I replace the batteries even if I might have got good readings on each of them as stated in the beginning of this info?"

The only way to know for sure is to test deep draw capacity. There is nothing like boon-docking for a while to test the batteries.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:19 AM   #13
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Just an idea, but I’ve had success rehabilitating and conserving 12v batteries with the Noco Genius10. First time rehabbing a dead mower battery netted 3 months of charge holding time. Subsequent rehabs got shorter, and the battery eventually failed. But I did get an additional 18 months of service from the battery. Have used it on deep cycle as well, and it will extend the charge holding time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-19-2021, 11:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deputydog View Post
Not if you use a good old carbon pile tester or even the old heater element one. They work fine.

......
That has been my experience. More in detail.

Last year a new sailor ask a battery question and another sailor got his load tester to answer it. So I went and got a cheap load tester from Harbor Freight.

When I am not sailing I am boondocking places where it is not convenient to get batteries checked. It was taking longer to charge batteries and they were not lasting as long before needing charging.

Was it time for new batteries? Pulled them and load tested them. Looked good and cleaned the connectors.

A few weeks later, generator would not start. Used the load tester and determined where the dirty connector was.

This spring just before heading north my Norcold died and I put in a residential frig. As expected, I needed to run my generator longer and more often. It was getting irritating.

I was hoping to get through another summer without buying batteries. When I load tested two of my 6v GC2 batteries were marginal. So the next time I was near a Costco I replaces all 4 GC2.

I have only boondocked 4 days since then. Initial charging rate has doubled and fulling charged in less than an hour. Do this morning and evening.

The cost of being cheap and trying to get another year out of batteries is being irritated while trying to enjoy boondocking.
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