8k chinese diesel heater in DP class A for dash heat

[Captain8]

First time using the RV in the winter, its an older 2000 model so maybe leaks but its FREEZING when driving. The dash heat isn't very warm and even a 1500w electric space heater doesn't help much while driving. I just ordered a cheap chinese 8k diesel heater off amazon that'll come here in a few days. The plan is to put it in the front bin (hood?) where the generator is and since it has the defroster pipes going through it I can just easily tie into there and hopefully the install will be simple.

Everything online is showing people putting the actual heater inside their campers and I plan on putting it outside with just ducting indoors. Not sure if that matters.

I'm not sure how strong 8k of heat actually is but if this goes well I plan on adding a 2nd heater for front floor heat then ripping out my dash air system entirely as I remodel and reclaim some space to make it easier to walk around.

[BayRunner]

I use one of those cheap diesel heaters for my truck Overlander. I sit it on a wheel step and duct the heat up to the overhead tent. Works great and have used it in blizzards with temps in the terms.,kept the temp in the tent at a steady 59. You need to make sure you route the exhaust away.

[petewolff]

I am considering doing the same thing for the same reason and my class A is a 2019.
The dash heat is weak and it all gets lost in the 30 something feet behind me.
I have looked at trying to insulate the water feed lines from the engine way in the back but you can't get at them .
I have heard about some folks hanging a curtain behind the seats to contain the heat but I think more heat is the answer .
THe idea of putting the unit in between the front mask and the firewall appeals to me , there is plenty of room, the duct work is right there and so is power.
My only concern is will running down the road at 60 + mph have a bad effect on the heater unit with the air swirling around in there.
I am curious to see how this install works for you .
I have run Webasto heating units on boats before and they are great . No problems when under way but the burner unit was mounted in an interior lazarette so it wasn't in the wind so to speak.

[Cooperhawk]

We simply run the propane furnace going down the road.

[petewolff]

Originally Posted by Cooperhawk

We simply run the propane furnace going down the road.

Yes , that is a good option but the beauty of the small diesel heater is that you can plumb it into the existing ductwork and get the heat where you really want /need it.

[Unplanned Tourist]

I have installed many of the Webasto cab heaters in highway trucks, but always inside of the jockey boxes. I suspect that they wouldn't be happy out in the wind created by driving. But if both the intake and outlet for the heated air is protected, then it might work.

[Fridge Defend]

Originally Posted by Captain8

First time using the RV in the winter, its an older 2000 model so maybe leaks but its FREEZING when driving. The dash heat isn't very warm and even a 1500w electric space heater doesn't help much while driving. I just ordered a cheap chinese 8k diesel heater off amazon that'll come here in a few days. The plan is to put it in the front bin (hood?) where the generator is and since it has the defroster pipes going through it I can just easily tie into there and hopefully the install will be simple.

Everything online is showing people putting the actual heater inside their campers and I plan on putting it outside with just ducting indoors. Not sure if that matters.

I'm not sure how strong 8k of heat actually is but if this goes well I plan on adding a 2nd heater for front floor heat then ripping out my dash air system entirely as I remodel and reclaim some space to make it easier to walk around.

Please let us know how the heater works out for you?

I have considered these heaters, but have enough knowledge, skill, and experience to be leery of these heaters. We ran fuel oil heaters to heat our shop in the 80's, they take a lot of TLC.

My advice, for what it is worth (not sure what is in the kit):

1) Put on a good inline fuel filter.

2) Be sure to put on an isolation valve for the fuel line.

3) Once installed, make sure that the heater is not getting so hot that it is a fire danger by over heating things around it.

4) Use CO detector in your RV always.

5) Make sure that the safety controls are not cheep junk. That is, the safety will shut down the heater if something goes wrong.

Please send us a personal message once you get this heater up and running, and have some history with it.
We want to know your experience, and we want to help everyone be safe.

8kW is a lot of heat, so you should be happy with it if it has an efficient burner. One last thing:

6) If you are using it while driving, the air intake/exhaust has to be shielded from wind, the wind can cause the burner to not function properly.

7) Mount so it is easy to remove and clean the burner and jet. The jet plugging is a major source of failure for most oil/diesel burners. The fuel will coke in the jet. Soaking jet in carburetor cleaner solves this.

Happy New Year

[Unplanned Tourist]

Thinking about this set-up more, I wonder if you would be better off just installing the heater as an aux heat source.

These heaters are great, but they are either on or off, operated by a thermostat mounted in your cab.

Putting it inline with your heater hose ducting will not work well. They are made to have a specific amount of air flow while they run, and when in the shut-down mode.

So if you have it in your ducting, you will be changing the required air flow, and possibly disrupting the flame sensors. As well as having hot, then cold air flow as the diesel heater cycles.

A better option would be to run it on it's own and then run your dash heat on recirculate.

Just my 2 cents worth. Take it or leave it.

[traveldawg]

Dash heaters in class A's are notoriously bad at keeping the cab warm, let alone the coach. All the heat goes back to the coach area leaving little for the front. Not to mention all the air leaks coming from the front.

Hang a curtain just behind the front seats so no heat goes back to the coach. I think you'll find that works fine. Be sure it reaches to the ceiling to keep the warm air in; you can leave a small gap at the floor but since warm air rises you want to get as close to the ceiling as you can. We used a shower rod and long curtain so it could be put up and down easily.

If you AC's are heat pumps you can also run them (or it) using generator power to help keep the coach section warm.

[petewolff]

Originally Posted by Unplanned Tourist

Thinking about this set-up more, I wonder if you would be better off just installing the heater as an aux heat source.

These heaters are great, but they are either on or off, operated by a thermostat mounted in your cab.

Putting it inline with your heater hose ducting will not work well. They are made to have a specific amount of air flow while they run, and when in the shut-down mode.

So if you have it in your ducting, you will be changing the required air flow, and possibly disrupting the flame sensors. As well as having hot, then cold air flow as the diesel heater cycles.

A better option would be to run it on it's own and then run your dash heat on recirculate.

Just my 2 cents worth. Take it or leave it.

Makes sense

[Bigd9]

Originally Posted by Cooperhawk

We simply run the propane furnace going down the road.

Same here. With the furnaces and dash heater on. we haven't had any problems with heat in our previous 1997 or our current 2006 Discovery, even in temperatures down to 0.

[lonfu]

yes, ran into that about 4 years ago during the winter, dash heat would barely put out any thing.... I have an evans manufactured dash heater/AC evaporator coil and box. Turns out that they put a filter on the heater hose leading from the engine to these units and the filter gets plugged up. It is a steel can that should be taken off and thrown away. The valve that they used in these units is a blade valve that only opens about 1/4 inch on max, it too should be thrown away. the entire unit is poorly designed. screwed closed the blend doors on the evaporator cover and taped them over with aluminum duct tape. I replaced the valve with a 12v spring valve from amazon for $35 that opens a full 1/2" and allows the coolant to flow through the heat exchanger. I can now heat the entire front of my coach with my dash air. I've done several articles here on IRV2 on the subject.

[Daveinet]

I think I'd be inclined to install something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Evargc-Compac...2409205&sr=8-9


My old motorhome had this setup and it was much warmer than running the furnace. We also had the engine water plumbed through the water heater, so we had hot water on the road. Both worked really well. And yes, back then we camped in single digits.

[Hpozzuoli]

My dash heat is like fire, it’s very hot. I also run my propane furnace and we still freeze. We have a huge front windshield and in 20 degree and below weather you can feel the cold pouring thru the glass. While in motion I can’t warm the entire coach. The back bedroom is the coldest and that’s usually where the kids hang out. My propane furnace doesn’t go back there and 20 degrees is too low for the heat pump.

I am looking into these heaters now. I think they are a great alternative.