AC & DC suburban advantage SAW6DEL to old Atwood wire connections

[fastwhls]

Hi, I need some help with connecting the AC and DC wires from my new suburban advantage SAW6DEL water heater.

I have two separate switches for water heater on the panel. (Pic #1). I'm trying to use these existing switches for my replacement water heater.

Pic#2 & #3 are the AC 110V wires from RV and water heater which I think they should be connected together (white to white, black to black and green to RV orange) color.

Pic#4 is the wires with clip from old Atwood water heater and Pic#5 are the wires from new suburban advantage SAW6DEL water heater. 3 of the wires colors match the wires from old Atwood but on Atwood side there is a white and on suburban side is a Red wire. Since the clips connect one way only to RV wirings I was thinking to cut the old Atwood wires and connect the matching 3 colors together and remaining white and red together.

Hoping this way I'll be able to use the existing switches on my panel (pic #1)

Like to know if anyone has done the same and was able to use the same existing switches... Or I need to get an new switch panel (pic #6).


Thanks in advance for all the suggestions and help.

[Old-Biscuit]

As shown it your other post.....Links show Suburban DC & AC Wiring for DEL

Suburban
RED.......DC+ From GAS On/Off switch
ORANGE.....DC+ From Electric On/Off switch
BLUE-----DC+ From Circuit Board to Fault Light
GREEN---DC- (Ground)

Atwood
WHITE----DC+ from Electric On/Off switch
ORANGE----DC+ from GAS On/Off switch
BLUE----DC+ from Circuit Board to Fault Light
GREEN----DC- (Ground)


AC Wiring
Black------120VAC HOT from Circuit Breaker
White------120VAC Neutral from AC Power Panel
Green-----120VAC Ground from AC Power Panel

***Black connects to AC side of the DC Relay

[fastwhls]

Thanks for your help for cleaning it.
The AC connection is straight forward. On DC side, these are the colors I have to match with Atwood wire..(pic #8)... Correct.? And that should allow me to still use the existing electric and gas switch?

[fastwhls]

Well after doing my research and help from from everyone here, was able to replace my 6 gallons Atwood water heater with Suburban advantage direct replacement for Atwood. I'm able to use the existing switches for 110 AC and 12 volt DC/Gas.
Thank you old-biscuit and everyone for you help and input.

[Old-Biscuit]

Thanks for update..........

Curious WHY you had to swap Atwood 6 gal for Suburban 6 gal

[fastwhls]

My Atwood had a hole in the tank around hot water inlet and couldn't find a replacement tank for it and used ones I found were not in good shape. The suburban advantage was a direct replacement for Atwood and it fit perfectly.

[Old-Biscuit]

Atwood tanks have been repaired, even huge splits
Aluminum welder

Glad the swap worked out for you!'

The Suburban SAW was made as direct replacement for Atwood 6 gal because Dometic stopped support/production of Atwood
Unfortunately you lost the Heat Exchanger that the Atwood CGH had

[fastwhls]

I talked with a welding shop and they said there is a lining inside the tank which doesn't allow a good weld. From what I could see it was welded before at the same spot. Guessing the previous owner tried to fix it. And you are right too bad I lost the heat exchanger... It was nice future. But now I like the suburban one. It was a direct fit.. so far is been working great.

[Old-Biscuit]

Atwood tanks are aluminum with a zinc cladding

Tanks are welded together, combustion/exhaust 'u' tube is welded to tank, thread bung holes are welded to tanks, Split tanks have been welded back together


Split Tank


Strap used to pull split together for welding


Completed/fully repaired tank



The Suburban SAW was direct fit because Suburban made it just for replacement of Atwoods because Dometic dropped Atwood

You show get many years use out of that Suburban...just remember to drain/flush and replace anode rod routinely
*Suburban uses a Steel tank with Glass lining and can NOT be repaired

[fastwhls]

Woow that's a huge crack.. I was wondering since I saw they welded two half aluminum together to make the tank when I pulled it out. Why can't do the same again.,?
Normally I do service the water heater every 6 to 8 month. Did it with Atwood one. I think if I keep the same routine the suburban one won't give me any issues...
The only issue I have is when I open the hot water faucet in the morning I still get some air coming out. The water looks like has lot of tiny bubbles in it and I'm guessing over night these tiny bubbles creates air pockets...

[Old-Biscuit]

WH Tank should have an air pocket ---helps control pressure increases when heated water swells

Once tank is full and air pocket established no air should be entrained in the water coming out of WH Tank

Does it happen at all faucets......hot side of Kitchen Bathroom, Shower?

*Hot water lines could need 'purging' since hot line was open/drained when R&R water heaters

[fastwhls]

I have that air pocket on top in tank it like manual says too. Yes any hot water faucet I open first time in the morning I get some air... Did you see how water color turned milky in my post..? Those are air bubbles.. when I pure it in a cup it takes about 15-20 seconds to clear up... It like when you get chlorine in glass cup, milky first but clears up slowly..
Can't figure out why I get those bubbles.

[fastwhls]

I did what you suggested.. purged the line... Much much better... Thanks

[cowboiler]

My Atwood aluminum tank cracked and I just ordered the Suburban SAW6DEL to replace it as I don't think I have the room to replace with one of the new Dometics as they look much deeper than my current one. My question is will my old Atwood door work with the new Suburban tank? They look nearly identical by looking at the pictures and how they attach/lock. The exhaust is in the same spot. Anyone used their old one? The new ones are only $40, but I'd rather use my old one instead of it going to scrap if it will work.