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Oakley · 03-29-2012, 05:28 PM

Hi. I have searched all over this and other forums and have not yet come across the same problem I am having and I hope someone can clue me in to what to check next.
I am quite handy and prefer to do all of my own repairs if I can but I am new to RVs, so I need to learn a lot.
What I have- '98 Fleetwood Storm 34', 454, P30, 2 Coleman roof mount ducted ACs (not sure of model) with the Intellitec EEC. This rig sat for 3 years before we purchased it.
My problem-My front AC works perfectly fine (after I lubed the fan shaft). The rear used to work fine- when turned on the EEC control panel would alternate green and red SHED lights for 2 mins then compressor would kick in and only display green light. Now, no matter what position the control is in (low cool, high cool, auto cool) only the green light comes on and the compressor never kicks in.
What I have done-I have replaced both the start and run capacitors, verified the thermal overload switch is closed and wiggled the slider on the thermostat. The unit shows no sign of leaked refrigerant. There is no hum, extra noise, heat or cold- the compressor never does anything.
I had assumed that I killed one of the capacitors when I ran the AC with a surging generator (was running heavy seafoam concentrated gas through it and the only load I could think to put on it was the AC). I didn't run it all that long on the surging compressor, but since then I have read that doing so can damage the AC.
My questions- are the only other parts that could fail in the system the compressor itself, the start relay, the EEC control box and the thermostat switch? Since the compressor doesn't even appear to try to come on, is the problem more likely one of the electric components? Can running the AC on surging power kill one of these components? Which is the most likely to take damage?
I guess most of all, if the start relay is bad, would the SHED light still come on for two minutes? If not then the problem must be the EEC or wall switch (in all three positions), right?
Any help is appreciated!
Oakley

jlfbatonrg · 03-29-2012, 06:03 PM

I would start by checking to see if you have 120V at the fan motor and compressor. If you do, then it would seem the problem would be in the control circuit in the roof unit. If not I would first find and check the breaker for the AC. Next, check to see if the Coleman controller shows any fault codes. A possible error would be a fault code of 00. This idicates an interrupt in the control logic . You can reset the controller if you open the box, and remove the fuse for five minutes. This will cause the control unit to reset all fault codes. when the fuse is replaced the control unit should be clear of fault codes. These checks should give you some good information about the source of your problme.

Jim

Oakley · 03-29-2012, 06:25 PM

Thanks. I meant to specify- the blower fan motor is working fine and responds correctly to low or high. The EEC unit is the old type with vertical sliders- I don't see anywhere that might be able to read a code.
I used a proximity voltage sensor at all of the posts on the relay and it never chirped.
I finally found the control box under the fridge, but it is pretty buried. I will try the manual "test" switch on it in a day or two and see what happens.
O

SUMDALUS · 03-30-2012, 05:02 AM

Oakley,

Sounds like you have a 30 Amp RV and an Intellitec Electronic Climate Control system.

Here's a link to a service manual for the ECC: http://www.intellitec.com/pdfs/Speci...300591.597.pdf

The 800 # in the manual is still good. Intellitec's tech support office is actually located in Orlando, FL rather than Lombard, IL. They have been very helpful - even to the point of testing the t-stat and control board (as a set) for me.

BTW - the blinking from red to green for 2 minutes indicates a time delay to protect the compressor from starting against a head of compression.

Hope this helps.

Oakley · 03-30-2012, 03:25 PM

I have used the "Test" switch on the Intelitec control box under the fridge and thank goodness, the AC still works fine, so the problem is either the control box or thermostat.
With the thermostat off the wall, I see that there are two large-ish wires each on their own terminals, and then there are two plug type connectors each with two small wires in them. All four of the smaller wires are the same colors.
So- I am assuming the two large wires are for the heater and the two connectors are for the front and rear ACs.

Can anyone confirm this assumption? If this is so, can I swap the two plugs with out harming anything? The goal here is to determine it the thermostat is the problem, as it operates the front unit properly.

Thanks to all who answer!
O

Oakley · 03-30-2012, 03:27 PM

(thanks to Dale for the phone number- I had that PDF, but didn't think to use the phone number in it- but I called too late- they close at 3:30 ET!)

Oakley · 04-04-2012, 02:43 PM

I see in the ECC manual that the leads in the tstat wont help me, but I might be able to swap J3 with J2 (PC3-PC2) on the controller to determine if the problem is the tstat or the controller.
I have not been able to get through to Intellitec on the phone for 3 days now. I sent an email on Monday and have not gotten a reply.
Does anyone know if swapping the plugs will hurt anything?
How long does it take to hear from Intellitec?
We will be driving across 3 desert states in less than 2 weeks, so I would like to get this resolved quickly!
Thanks!
O