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vettenuts · 07-31-2014, 06:14 PM

I purchased a portable freezer, which is an Edgestar. It uses 75W of power, which at 12V is just over 6 amps. Has anyone tied into one of their basement lights to power a freezer? I am little concerned about the lighting wire size although the circuit used a 20 amp fuse.

pkmesser · 07-31-2014, 06:39 PM

You didn't say which compartment you intend to put the freezer in, I checked the one immediately behind the passenger door in my unit. In that position, the light is pigtailed to wiring that is actually several sizes larger.

If you follow the wiring from the light, spreading open the wire loom, you will find within a short distance, (about 5 inches in my case) where it is butt spliced to the larger wire. It is at least a 16 gauge, which is plenty big for the amperage you need for the freezer. The wire is not marked, so could not ascertain absolutely the size. If you do the same thing, break the connection, then put a caliper on the bare wire to get diameter and note if copper or aluminum. From that information you should be able to google a wire size chart and determine for certain what you have. I could do that for you, but not being certain of your intended position, it would be better for you to do it for your location. (Note, I have the same year Kountry Star.)

HuntingHawk · 07-31-2014, 06:44 PM

Don't do it. Run a separate line for the freezer with its own inline fuse. As stated, way more amps then the wire for the basement lights are designed for.

wa8yxm · 07-31-2014, 07:16 PM

I run an Engel, it takes 3 amps, I ran a special feed..

This one is in my RV living area (It is a bench seat in the dinette)

But it draws 3 amps

I ran a 40 amp (10ga) feed from the batteries to a power strip
(West Mountain Radio Rig-Runner) and from there to the Unit.. This thing is 9 years old and I have had problems with it twice, both times the problem was between the battery and the Rig-Runner

One There was a "Bulge" in the wire, sliced into it and all corrosion, no copper. did a bit of slicing and soldering and sealing and it was good

Two: Connection between 10ga and fuse holder failed, Re-did (Again soldering, orginal was crimped) and sealed, and all good

The Engel also has a 120 volt option which kept things froze both time.

You can get 10ga wire (Stranded) at high end audio stores or 12 ga at Radio Shack (or from me if you are close I have a coil of it)

Super flex (Speaker wire) Very nice.

vettenuts · 07-31-2014, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pkmesser

You didn't say which compartment you intend to put the freezer in, I checked the one immediately behind the passenger door in my unit.

I originally wanted to put one in that compartment, but the height limitation was a killer. I am putting it in the left rear in the large door just in front of the 50 amp plug in. The compartment is sealed except for the port where the electrical cable is run to shore power. The lights look to be on a 14 gauge wire.

vettenuts · 08-01-2014, 06:10 AM

Spent some time reviewing the Newmar wiring diagrams. The basement lights are wired with 12 gauge wire, so if all the lights are off not sure why I can't draw 6 amps.

Ramets · 08-01-2014, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vettenuts

Spent some time reviewing the Newmar wiring diagrams. The basement lights are wired with 12 gauge wire, so if all the lights are off not sure why I can't draw 6 amps.

That's what I did 4 1/2yrs. ago with our freezer. I believe the edgestar comes with the 12v adapter plug. I went to Autozone and bought a 12v female end and spliced into the 12v light wire and mounted it near the light. I just plugged it in when on the road. I now have enough solar that i can leave it plugged into the 110, since I have a Magnum 2800 PSW inverter. But it worked well on 12v.

tedgard01 · 08-01-2014, 07:56 AM

I have a different coach, but I did install a basement freezer.

My freezer is the largest one that Domestic makes and has both 120V and 12V plugs, and it automatically switches to the best power choice.

Therefore, I had both a 120V and 12V plug installed in the bin where the freezer is located. When I am on shore power it runs off the 120V power, when driving down the road, it runs off the inverter via the 12V. When on the 120V, it is always zero degrees, but when on 12V, I have seen it get up to nine degrees. Regardless, still the contents are frozen solid. Another point is that I also have a residential refrigerator in my coach, and with both the refrigerator and the basement freezer running on the inverter, I was concerned that the generator may need to start up to keep the power required. I am happy to report that this is not the case, and the inverter never drops below 13.4V as I travel down the road. When I stop for some time without starting the generator, it can drop lower than 13V, so I the auto gen start may kick on the generator when stopped for a longer period.

I had the power outlets installed professionally when I bought the coach, so I can not be of any help on that. I wish you the best on your project. Just thought I'd let you know about my setup, and suggest that you have both a 12V and 120V power if the freezer has that option.

Ted

pkmesser · 08-01-2014, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vettenuts

I originally wanted to put one in that compartment, but the height limitation was a killer. I am putting it in the left rear in the large door just in front of the 50 amp plug in. The compartment is sealed except for the port where the electrical cable is run to shore power. The lights look to be on a 14 gauge wire.

In this location you have a much better choice. Your converter should be in a small enclosure at the back of the the 50 amp cable compartment. The output of the converter is always hot, even if not connected to 110.

The wire(s) from the converter to the rest of the system is rated at least as high as the converter output, which is 55 amps. I personally think this original wiring is a little light, not that it will not carry 55 amps, but rather with the long runs involved, the voltage drop to the coach batteries is significant if the batteries are low, and you start recharging them. That voltage drop could be as much as 1.0 volts to the batteries. (the higher the applied voltage is to the batteries, the faster they will recharge) By connecting at this point, you take the load of the freezer off of those cables when you are in a full charge mode, so it helps there also.

When not connected to 110, the cables from the converter, feed back from the batteries, and as mentioned above, are rated for at least 55 amps.
PM me if you have any questions

vettenuts · 08-02-2014, 07:46 PM

I thought about that but when I read up on the converter's charge cycle I was concerned drawing power off the converter directly would mess things up. I have since elected to run a conduit with two #10 wires directly from the batteries.