Adding up Amps and/or Watts

[WeRetired]

Is there a listing someplace that shows load/draw on several of the items we have in our trailers. Trying to dial in my power consumptions, cell phones, iPads, mifi, battery charger, fridge, TVs, invertors, etc. Just curious if someone has a list they have put together, I know brand specific will change usages, just looking for a close number.
Thanks for thoughts

[twinboat]

Best thing is a Kill A Watt meter.

They can be found for about $25 and can be used to read watt, amps and volts on anything.

[Brad Wilf]

A lot of variables there. IMO Only really to know with accuracy, or your just guessing, get yourself a shunt battery monitor. It will read all your loads and you'll be able to see how many amps/watts in/out. You can read your battery bank like a fuel gauge..lets you stay out longer, better battery health..etc.

Of course if your plugged in then it's a moot point.

[creativepart]

A basic addition for everyone that's trying to figure out their power usage and charging and battery bank is to install a shunt-based battery monitor.

They are available for as little as $40 or as much as $250 and they tell you how many amps you are using, how many amps you are putting back into your bank and what the real actual battery bank state of charge is at any given time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tObHbsSDWeQ

[WeRetired]

Thanks for the suggestions, will have to get me one of those meters, cool - more tools to have in bag.

[Alan_Hepburn]

Monitoring your battery bank will not tell you ANYTHING about the AC loads, which is what the OP asked about...

[Spdracr39]

Unless he is wanting to know because he is boondocking. More Information would be good on what he is doing with the information. OP do you need to calculate the amount of time your battery will last boondocking, If you can run off of a lower amp service, or if you are trying to size a generator?

[followingsea]

Originally Posted by WeRetired

...... just looking for a close number.
Thanks for thoughts

Here goes!

Things I have measured with a power meter. The cromebook I am writing with at the moment: 7 watts.

New LED TV & 10 yo laptop: 30 watts.

All the LED I need for lighting at a given time: 5 watts.

Not measured but estimated: Inverter and solenoid that holds open propane line: 50 watts.

Frig on 120 vac from interter: 300 watts

To put it in perspective what the minimum full time in a NH: When boodocking I use about 1200 watt-hr. I run my generator 1 hour to charge 4 gc2 batteries.

In the winter with the furnace blower, 2 hours a day of generator run time

If I run the frig on 120 vac, it would be 4 hours twice a day.

I have also measured one of those machines to help folks breath at night: under 20 watts.

My figures are for a full time retired couple who adapt to a simple lifestyle when off grid without air conditioning.

Once you need to run air conditioning or otherwise try to live like at home, You need a big generator that is too heavy to lift. Glad I have that but once your a running a 1500 btu A/C, a cell phone charger is too small to worry about.

[sibe]

Originally Posted by followingsea

Here goes!

Things I have measured with a power meter. The cromebook I am writing with at the moment: 7 watts.

New LED TV & 10 yo laptop: 30 watts.

All the LED I need for lighting at a given time: 5 watts.

Not measured but estimated: Inverter and solenoid that holds open propane line: 50 watts.

Frig on 120 vac from interter: 300 watts

To put it in perspective what the minimum full time in a NH: When boodocking I use about 1200 watt-hr. I run my generator 1 hour to charge 4 gc2 batteries.

In the winter with the furnace blower, 2 hours a day of generator run time

If I run the frig on 120 vac, it would be 4 hours twice a day.

I have also measured one of those machines to help folks breath at night: under 20 watts.

My figures are for a full time retired couple who adapt to a simple lifestyle when off grid without air conditioning.

Once you need to run air conditioning or otherwise try to live like at home, You need a big generator that is too heavy to lift. Glad I have that but once your a running a 1500 btu A/C, a cell phone charger is too small to worry about.

I am not really following your usage and numbers...

I have done a multiple battery run downs for boon docking or quiet times. tests. and I watch my AC load.. with a watt/amp meter on the main feed,, math will get me my DC load from inverter use..

I have run my Fridge with another 1-1.4 amp at 120V draw.. My fridge with the draw pulled 27-30 AH at 12V...
I have 300AH storage 2 - 31 and a 27, when right at 100%... After Approx 10Hr of this load that varied once the Fridge finally got cold, it is a Norcold 6182.
My Battery Bank was at 11.9-12.1 Volts.. I called it pretty much DONE..

My data log showed I used about 3200 watts at 120V.. convert to 12V AH is approx 260ish..

So running your 300 watt fridge 8 hours a day will take almost 50% of your 400+

Weather you run it inverter or have the 12vdc frdige AMP draw to make enough watts to chill is almost the same.. 10% +/-

[Brad Wilf]

Originally Posted by Alan_Hepburn

Monitoring your battery bank will not tell you ANYTHING about the AC loads, which is what the OP asked about...

sounds like he's running a inverter right, where's that A/C power come from......I charge cell phones, flashlights, I-pads etc all with 12v no inverter.

[happy2rv]

The OP didn't offer a reason for the request.



As others have suggested, if at all possible when running on batteries, power directly from batteries instead of the inverter. In other words, use a 12V charger to charge cell phones and other similar devices. Running an inverter to provide 110V to provide 5V is pretty inefficient.



The OP asked about AC loads. Most of these can be looked up using Google for generic information, although what you usually find is "plate" ratings. I.E. Worst case. For instance if a refrigerator pulls 12A @ 120V during startup that's what you find in the specifications as the power requirement. It will only draw that amount of current for a short time during startup and will draw less after the compressor starts and even less between compressor cycles.



I'm a firm believer that every owner should have a multi-meter and learn how to use it. I recommend an AC/DC clamp meter. It performs all the functions of a regular multi-meter and has a clam that you can place around a current carrying conductor to measure the current flowing through that conductor. This does require being able to isolate the current carrying conductor though. So, you can't clamp it around the whole power cord for instance. It has to be only around the "hot" wire.




I carry one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SQ4UETO/in the RV. Many options, just make sure it supports AC and DC, most of the cheaper ones only support AC.

[twinboat]

The OP is probably gone. He's ordering a Kill A Watt.

[Brad Wilf]

Originally Posted by twinboat

The OP is probably gone. He's ordering a Kill A Watt.

LOL

[theoldwizard]

Originally Posted by creativepart

A basic addition for everyone that's trying to figure out their power usage and charging and battery bank is to install a shunt-based battery monitor.

They are available for as little as $40 or as much as $250 and they tell you how many amps you are using, how many amps you are putting back into your bank and what the real actual battery bank state of charge is at any given time.

Not sure it I trust those "odd brand" battery monitors.

One of the best on the market Victron Energy Battery Monitor, BMV-700 Amazon $150