Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > RV Systems & Appliances
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-27-2013, 01:08 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 61
Air conditioner help - ducted to non ducted

Hello brethren. I have a 2000 fleet wood bounder that I'm fixing to do an air conditioner swap. Im down here Central Texas we see temps in excess of 105 regularly. I have never been satisfied with the performance I my front air conditioner since purchasing the Motorhome. The turbulent air distribution has never put out very good flow to the front ducts so no matter what, the Motorhome gets warm in the front on a Hott day. The rear air conditioer gets so cold I could hang meat. We are the weird couple that has to have air movement and noise when we sleep so we have the fans on all the time anyways. I'm going to replace the front ducted Coleman Mach ac with a atwood ac non ducted because it is my belief that it will cool better with less parasitic loss from the duct work and will cool quicker and recover better. At cook offs we are in and out alot. I only have one concern. My current climate control/load shed is intellitec. We are not worred about the constant on fan, just worried about how to wire it. Since this a/c has its own thermostat, how will I still be able to utilize the controller since the 12v heat also runs off the front a/c. I know technically all the front a/c needs is 120 power to work but don't wanna screw up anything in the process. I'm pretty proficient at troubleshooting and mechanics, so please fire away.
53block is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-27-2013, 01:18 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Few thoughts: Why are you changing the AC unit anyway? Have you tested intake vs. exhaust temp difference and compressor amperage draw?
Find that out first, THEN, you may not need a new AC after all. You have may air loss into the attic or cold air being sucked up into the intake.
If the AC is good, then just put a non ducted ceiling assembly up there, and keep your Coleman roof unit.
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2013, 01:21 PM   #3
Member
 
geno39's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Grand Island, Ne.
Posts: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
Few thoughts: Why are you changing the AC unit anyway? Have you tested intake vs. exhaust temp difference and compressor amperage draw?
Find that out first, THEN, you may not need a new AC after all. You have may air loss into the attic or cold air being sucked up into the intake.
If the AC is good, then just put a non ducted ceiling assembly up there, and keep your Coleman roof unit.
That sounds good to me.
__________________
1968-1980 USN Seabees CE1
1980-2007 Chief Engineer/Electrician offshore drilling
Retired
geno39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2013, 02:00 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
spritz's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: c above
Posts: 5,521
Cool

We have 2 non ducted Colemans, the back one will freeze you out of the MH I do not kid you the front one very rarely gets used. 2 adults and 2 dogs 31 year old MH
Although today I might have to turn on the heat, again I am not kidding I don't even think its 50 out side.Where's Mr. Gore?
__________________
1982 Pace Arrow P30 454
KarKaddy SS, Toad: 2009 Genesis
Tim, Joe and Lilly too. Mpls Minn.
spritz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2013, 02:16 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
fletch460's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Groves,TX
Posts: 516
Jmoney, before yoou do all that, pull return air cover. My son has the same unit as I did. Mine woould never pull temps down as his. When I pulled the cover inside, where they had run the wires to the unit, there was an elongated hole into the attic that was sucking hot air from the attic. Sealing foam fixed that and now cools like a champ here in TX.
fletch460 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2013, 02:04 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
sc3283's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,126
Jmoney go to the Monacosection and read about the cold air dump vs ducted.

I'd try the cold air dump prior to swapping AC units...Mine cools FAR better using the cold air dump as compared to the factory ductwork.
__________________
96 Dynasty 36' that does NOT wander, thanks to RuppParts.com and their superior "poly" suspension bushings
sc3283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2013, 04:12 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by sc3283 View Post
Jmoney go to the Monacosection and read about the cold air dump vs ducted.

I'd try the cold air dump prior to swapping AC units...Mine cools FAR better using the cold air dump as compared to the factory ductwork.
Thanks for all the replies. I have tried the dump but it requires the removal of the filter housing and removal of the turbulent pan. I am gettin 20 deg cooler air coming out of the main 2 vents it comes out of. The front 4 barely has any air coming out. The air conditioner has blow by leakage from the intake exhaust area. The ducting in this Motorhome is not very efficient and have plugged several holes with spray foam but it didn't make any difference. I know in my gut that upgrading to a non ducted unit to utilize more even distribution in this case. Plus these Atwood units can be ran off a single 2000 watt generator. I have a husky 2200 that goes with us everywhere in case I need a backup genny. If anyone has an idea how to hook up this new air conditioner while still preserving my propane heat setting on the intellitec, I'm open to suggestions.
No really interested in trying to make this old ac work better, sometimes when you got it in your mind that you want a new one, nothing will satisfy you until you get the new one
53block is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2013, 04:23 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Well, go ahead and get the new one.
The "non ducted" only has to do with the ceiling assembly, not the upper unit. That's it.
If you get a Coleman non ducted, thermostat controlled ceiling assembly, and block off all your exhaust to dump straight, then you'd be surprised.
I've never installed an Atwood, because I never needed to, so I can't help with wiring.
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2013, 05:04 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
wa8yxm's Avatar
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,023
An AC unit has 3 parts. The "Above the roof" part. The "In the roof" part and the "Below the ceiling" part

It's the middle part that determines if it's ducted or not and the lower part that you need to replace to let the air flow.

In fact, odds are very good that you can convert the middle part if you get the right lower part. I will describe.

Find the duct inlets (The outlet from the in the roof part) and block them, A tin can lid screw mounted over them should work.

now find where the non-ducted ceiling trim lets the air back into the RV and make sure the path to there is clear (you may have to cut a hole) Job done. Savings, about a kilobuck
__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 05:40 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 61
I don't understand what your saying?
I understand there are 3 parts
Top, middle, and lower.
I understand that all top units are the same, it's the middle and bottom parts that determine if its ducted or not.
Where I'm not following you is I can't just buy the Coleman air distribution box and bolt it right up without modification? Seems to me all I should have to do is remove the duct tube in the middle of the intake, remove the turbulent panel to allow the dump, bolt on the air distribution box and presto. What am I missing?
53block is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 07:03 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
wa8yxm's Avatar
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,023
You got it, you can buy the lower and middle parts and bolt them in or just the lower (Ceiling trim/grill) and modifiy the in-roof part. Actually considering the cost of the in-roof part it won't make that much difference. It is relatively inexpensive.

One other thing... My 38' house came with a pair of Carrier Air V 13,500 BUT ducted units... Because of a workmanship issue that took 7 years to show up one of them failed, the other would have but, forewarned (By the failure of the first) we fixed the workmanship issue on it.

I replaced it with an Advent Air 15,000 btu unit, 11% more cool.

So, how much more power does that AA unit draw... Not so much as one watt. it has the exact same power consumption rating as the smaller Carrier (Seems they make 'em more efficient now days)

If you end up making major mods.. That may be a consideration as well.

Finally, DUCTED units are a lot less noisy than non-ducted. I often read threads where folks complain about noise from the A/C.. that is the major advantage of ducting, less noise. I can hear my Advent, if I listen for it.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 07:13 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Buxton, North Dakota
Posts: 3,902
I wouldn't think changing the AC and disconnecting the thermostat would affect the furnace function. It would still control the furnace based on thermostat switch setting and temperature.
__________________
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G F53/ V10 605 watts of Solar
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C F53V10 Handicap Equipped
1999 Jeep Cherokee, 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade and 2018 Chevrolet Equinox Diesel
John Hilley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 07:49 AM   #13
YC1
Senior Member
 
YC1's Avatar


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 9,498
Do some maintenance on the roof portion and modify the register. Mine now works far better. With the register modified I can direct the air down and along the center versus straight down. The lower restriction allows much more air flow. It makes more noise but when it is 110 outside I really don't care.

I have several more pictures but the internet connection is lousy.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	670 (640x360).jpg
Views:	187
Size:	135.6 KB
ID:	43202   Click image for larger version

Name:	671 (640x360).jpg
Views:	267
Size:	136.8 KB
ID:	43203  

__________________
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
400 Isl, 400 HP/// Now 450 HP
2016 Ford F150 Limited V6 with Ready Brake
YC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 07:52 AM   #14
YC1
Senior Member
 
YC1's Avatar


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 9,498
Open register
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	669 (640x360).jpg
Views:	593
Size:	141.6 KB
ID:	43204  
__________________
Myron & Deborah
08 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ
400 Isl, 400 HP/// Now 450 HP
2016 Ford F150 Limited V6 with Ready Brake
YC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
air conditioner



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.