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Old 07-24-2020, 11:29 PM   #1
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Air Conditioning Recharge ?

The rear ac is no longer blowing cold air and the front is blowing cool air so I guess that means it needs recharging? If so, does anyone have a referral for So CA ? If there might be another issue please advise. Thank you.
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Old 07-25-2020, 06:46 AM   #2
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The rear ac is no longer blowing cold air and the front is blowing cool air so I guess that means it needs recharging? If so, does anyone have a referral for So CA ? If there might be another issue please advise. Thank you.
If you are speaking of the roof air, it never gets recharged. If Freon is gone, most always the unit is replaced as it's not typically serviceable. There are no fill / check ports in the system. Yes, there are adapters to add those ports but they have a history of leaking.

The electrical system should be inspected and troubleshooted to isolate the problem.

Any RV repair shop should be able to handle it. Or really any HVAC technician that wants to take a look. It's a very basic HVAC system.

And, I assume you have the rear zone set for cooling and the temp setting is lower than the room temp? Just to eliminate the easy stuff....
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Old 07-25-2020, 07:03 AM   #3
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If it needs refrigerent recharged, it leaked out.

They are a sealed system with no seals, O rings, or gaskets.

The charge is installed and the tube folded and soldered closed.
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Old 07-25-2020, 08:56 AM   #4
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All you can do is check that the compressor is running, the fins on the condenser are clean and the fan is blowing. Those are repairable items. If they check out it's time to replace. Good Luck.
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Old 07-25-2020, 09:22 AM   #5
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Don't waste your money trying to fix a freon problem with RV A/C units! In almost all cases it will be money down the rathole! Don't ask me how I know that!
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Old 07-25-2020, 09:25 AM   #6
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The current RV A/C units typically have a 7 to 10 year life. If you can check the compressor operation and amp draw to see it the unit is running. A big problem is most people do not keep the filters clean and eventually plug up the evaporator coil.

I clean the evaporator and condenser coil every two years. This means taking off the upper cover and partially disassembling the unit to get to the coils. Also check for air leaks between the inlet and outlet sides at the unit.

The units can be recharged, but it is not a cheap procedure if done properly and you are best served byt replacing the unit.

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Old 07-25-2020, 09:39 AM   #7
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When this happened to me... I replaced the unit $1,200 plus installation.

Word on the forums is if you remove the unit and take it physically to an A/C shop that they will add a port, evacuate the system and refill it. Then all you have to do is get it back up on the roof.

I imagine this could be true, but not something you can do when you're on a 3000 mile trip and you need A/C NOW.
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Old 07-25-2020, 10:35 AM   #8
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When this happened to me... I replaced the unit $1,200 plus installation.

Word on the forums is if you remove the unit and take it physically to an A/C shop that they will add a port, evacuate the system and refill it. Then all you have to do is get it back up on the roof.

I imagine this could be true, but not something you can do when you're on a 3000 mile trip and you need A/C NOW.
They also have to fix the leak.

Removing and installing refrigerant isn't a fix.
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Old 07-25-2020, 10:39 AM   #9
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They also have to fix the leak.

Removing and installing refrigerant isn't a fix.
Yes, of course. I thought that went without saying... but perhaps not and it has now been said. They have to locate and fix the leak as part of this process.
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Old 07-25-2020, 04:36 PM   #10
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The rear ac is no longer blowing cold air and the front is blowing cool air so I guess that means it needs recharging? If so, does anyone have a referral for So CA ? If there might be another issue please advise. Thank you.
WOW, what a bit of disinformation you are receiving and from senior members. Yes it can be repaired and no it is not likely a leak but a capacitor or fan motor that is bad. I don't have time now but do your homework and you will see what is usually the problem.
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Old 07-25-2020, 05:49 PM   #11
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Thank you for the replies. First off I've never done any maintenance on it so I guess I should check the filters and clean the coils? If anything, as one is still blowing cool air this may add a bit of life to the unit. I wanted some info rather than going in cold and at the mercy of a repair shop. A quickie on that is I brought my toad into Pep Boys knowing it had a leak in the overflow container and said to give me a quote on the cooling repair (without mentioning the overflow tank). They came back with a $1,300 plus quote stating new water pump and thermostat. I changed the overflow tank and have had no issues for 5K miles.
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Old 07-26-2020, 07:27 AM   #12
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WOW, what a bit of disinformation you are receiving and from senior members. Yes it can be repaired and no it is not likely a leak but a capacitor or fan motor that is bad. I don't have time now but do your homework and you will see what is usually the problem.
Not seeing any "disinformation" above. It is all accurate on quick glance.

What I think you may be saying is that a proper diagnostics should be done to determine failed component and then that needs to be addressed. Quite right.

Starts with "are you using the system correctly". I assume the OP is because he/she is able to get the front to work fine.

Then, "is the fan working", "is the compressor turning on", to further isolate the problem area.

The OP started with freon (which might be a good SOP guess) so needs to be aware that IF Freon related, get a new unit. That's what's different between a RV roof unit and most all other AC systems that are repairable for leaks.

Could just be dirty and blew a fuse that a quick bath and new fuse might fix (doubtful but ya never know).
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Old 07-26-2020, 09:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
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WOW, what a bit of disinformation you are receiving and from senior members. Yes it can be repaired and no it is not likely a leak but a capacitor or fan motor that is bad. I don't have time now but do your homework and you will see what is usually the problem.
The premise to replace the unit is based on recharging the unit. If the unit is clean, motors and capacitors are all good, it can still give service for a few more years.

But to recharge the unit PROPERLY is a bit of work. First you have to install a piercing valve or a saddle valve to pressurize and leak check the unit. Then you remove the refrigerant if there is any in the system.

Next you remove the temporary saddle clamp valve and solder in a high side and a low side Schrader valve. During the soldering process, you sweep the system with nitrogen to prevent oxidation in the lines due to the heat.

Now you pull a vacuum on the system to remove any moisture and hold the system in a vacuum for at least 12 hours to see that the vacuum holds.

Now you break the vacuum with refrigerant and recharge to the proper pressure levels.

This process is not cheap if done properly and no worth the dollars putting into an older unit unless you are capable of doing the work yourself and have the tools.

All too often, the unknowing immediately jump to the unit needs Freon if it is not cooling. With these sealed units, 9 times out of 10 that is not the issue. Most problems with these units are traced to poor air flow due to dirty coils or filter, air leaks and bypassing, controls are bad or capacitors. If it beyond these items, it is generally better to replace the unit and get a full warranty on it as opposed to a 30 day repair warranty.

Ken
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