Am I replacing my convertor with the correct one?

[Dewald]

I have a 1990 Winn chieftain 36'. Batteries bad so I replaced them. Thinking the convertor is bad, I bought another to replace but I do not know if I bought the correct one. I have not replaced it yet. Being so old I could not find the exact model so I bought one that fit as closely as I could find. Never done this before. Problems are; when unplugged no power to the fuel pump, exhaust fan in bathroom stopped working ( whether plugged in to shore power or not ) I did replace the fan (still not working), dash lights not coming on ( replaced the ignition switch ). So I am thinking I have a convertor problem and this is why I bought the new convertor and I would really appreciate some insight before I replace my old convertor with the new one.

[Skip426]

OK ; need to back up here , to try and differentiate between the many issue you've described .

First questions ?
Which batteries were replaced ? Chassis or coach ?
Your RV has two sets ; one to start the engine and one to provide interior power when parked .

Next . Fuel pump no power ? How are you testing for power ? Voltmeter ?

No power to the dash lights , did you check for power to the ignition switch before you replaced it?
Same question for the bathroom fan.

What chassis and engine does your Winnebago have?

[Dewald]

Originally Posted by Skip426

OK ; need to back up here , to try and differentiate between the many issue you've described .

First questions ?
Which batteries were replaced ? Chassis or coach ?
Your RV has two sets ; one to start the engine and one to provide interior power when parked .

Next . Fuel pump no power ? How are you testing for power ? Voltmeter ?

No power to the dash lights , did you check for power to the ignition switch before you replaced it?
Same question for the bathroom fan.

What chassis and engine does your Winnebago have?

coach batt, deep cycle, fuel pump, used volt meter, changed ignition b/c key would not turn anymore, bought a new exhaust fan and installed it, wouldn't come on so checked for power w/ volt meter no power, bench checked the fan before installing, worked fine. I think the convertor is responsible for most of these problems but I am not sure. need help. ty
454 Chieftain 36'
Bob

[Dewald]

It's a GM chassis 454cu 36' Chieftain

[Persistent]

You have two separate 12 volt power systems. They may be connected by a bridge circuit, but are otherwise separate.

You may have a converter/charger or an inverter/charger. Post make and model of old unit and make and model of new unit for better advice.

The converter/charger is part of the house 12 volt system. It provides 12 volt power to things like interior lights, water pump, controls for propane appliances etc.

The converter/charger also charges the house battery but not the engine (chassis) battery.

Generally it does not supply power to the engine (chassis) system except through the bridge circuit under certain conditions.

Usually the converter/charger installation instructions explain how to test the converter/charger. Post make and model for better advice.

Fuel pump to the engine (chassis) and dash lights are part of the engine 12 volt system, not the house 12 volt system. The converter/charger generally has nothing to do with the chassis system.

12 volt Side of Life part 1
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
12 volt Side of Life part 2
The 12volt Side of Life Part 2
Some of the information is a little dated, but it is still pretty good.

Plugging into shore power activates the converter/charger. If batteries are dead, it may take a few minutes to raise the voltage high enough to power things. It may or may not charge the chassis battery.

It may take from 4 to 18 hours to fully charge the house batteries.

Check voltage on new house battery terminals. Voltage should be 12.4 volts or higher, possibly 12.7 volts when at rest.

Check voltage on chassis battery terminals. Again 12.4 volts when at rest.

If batteries are not charged, then charge them. You can use a portable automotive charger. It may take 4 to 18 hours of charging to fully charge lead acid batteries.

Fully charged batteries should power all 12 volt devices. Even when not connected to shore power. Even if converter/charger has failed.

[d23haynes57]

From the factory that coach did not charge the chassis batteries from the house battery system. Simple relay ties banks together when ignition on or boost system activated.

[SafariBen]

I don't think the converter is responsible for any of those problems. Possibly the bath fan, but only if you messed with the converter and messed up that circuit there.



The dash and fuel pump are not related to the house battery at all, I'd suspect an ignition relay or fuse is controlling both the fuel pump and dash gauges, did they go out at the same time?

[Skip426]

I don't know how far back Winnebago goes with there wiring support ; but it's worth a look.


http://www.winnebago.com/owners/owne...s-and-diagrams

[Dewald]

Originally Posted by SafariBen

I don't think the converter is responsible for any of those problems. Possibly the bath fan, but only if you messed with the converter and messed up that circuit there.



The dash and fuel pump are not related to the house battery at all, I'd suspect an ignition relay or fuse is controlling both the fuel pump and dash gauges, did they go out at the same time?

I bought the new convertor b/c it didn't keep my batteries charged. My batt ended up unchargeable so I bought new ones. I did not mess with the convertor. The exhaust fan was working fine then stopped so I bought another, bench tested it before i installed it but still did not work. I do not know why or what controls the circuit to the fan. For me, trying to find a ground is difficult. Auto easy but motorhome not so easy. As far as the dash lights are concerned, I have only driven this big behemouth twice and now I am stuck in a rv park. I will turn on the clearance lights and headlights tonight and see if the dash lights come on. Under the hood there is a panel with a number of old relays and I do not know which ones do what. I will have to study more.

Thanks guys.

[SafariBen]

The backlights for the dash gauges may come on with the headlights. The gauges themselves, especially the warning lights, should come on with the ignition switch in "on" position.

[Dewald]

Originally Posted by Dewald

coach batt, deep cycle, fuel pump, used volt meter, changed ignition b/c key would not turn anymore, bought a new exhaust fan and installed it, wouldn't come on so checked for power w/ volt meter no power, bench checked the fan before installing, worked fine. I think the convertor is responsible for most of these problems but I am not sure. need help. ty
454 Chieftain 36'
Bob

Last night I checked to see if the dash lights would come on. Pulled the light stem out to turn on my clearance lights and they came on but when I turned the stem to the left it just activated the dome light. I pulled the stem out all the way and the headlights came on but no dash lights. So May if I could find the dash light fuse (if there is one ) I would replace it and check again.

[Dewald]

Originally Posted by Dewald

Last night I checked to see if the dash lights would come on. Pulled the light stem out to turn on my clearance lights and they came on but when I turned the stem to the left it just activated the dome light. I pulled the stem out all the way and the headlights came on but no dash lights. So May if I could find the dash light fuse (if there is one ) I would replace it and check again.

Can we post photos?

[SafariBen]

I was talking about the gauges themselves, like the fuel gauge showing half tank or whatever you have, and the oil, temp, and battery warning lights coming on, that should all happen with the ignition switch, that should be related to the problems you stated.


BUT, since you mention the backlights don't come on for the gauges, maybe you have a dash ground issue?