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Old 07-01-2013, 10:23 PM   #1
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Amish cooling unit

Well we got the almish unit in our Norcold 1201 fridge. It quit on the way home and finally got it going Sunday morning. Got up Monday (this morning) morning and it was 36! Woohoo! It stayed at 36-41 all day. Kept it closed till bout 6 and it was 50!😳WTH! I just checked (10:00 pm) and its 56! It's burning and fans are running! It was set on 4 all day till I seen the 50 so I turned it up to 7! Higher number colder it gets or suppose to! Ill check it in the morning. I'm hoping it starts working like it should!
Any idea what might be going on with it? We didn't even have hot weather today! It's cool outside right now so I would think it would work better!
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:36 AM   #2
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Who installed it and the seals of new cooling unit need to be good when installed, a leak and cold air will be sucked out.
Give Dave Force a call for help.
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:00 AM   #3
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Rear of the cooling unit fits into a cavity of Styrofoam if the spray foam hasn't been used to seal the two units together tight with no leaks and taped and the thermal caulking used to attach the cooling unit to the fridge and freezer section isn't used properly it will not work properly. Sometimes contact points on the fridge and freezer are not cleaned properly or enough and not making good contact. A fan on the inside will aid in your cooling, as it will help circulate the cold air on the interior. Check the door fit and make sure that the seals fit tight [the dollar bill trick]. Good luck hope all works out and your good to go. Let us know.
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:22 AM   #4
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6:00 am it's down to 47, not cool enough! I do have a small fan on the inside. I sent David a msg. Will call him today. Cummins in Kc put it in. They should know how to put them in and it's not the first for them!
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:47 PM   #5
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After two attempts to get the cooling unit sealed properly, The Norcold and relatively new Amish cooling unit headed to the dumpster and we put in an electric redidential unit. The problem with selaing the unit is you foam the devil out of things and then hope it is sealed adequately. You find out if the seal is good or not after a few days of operation.

Ken
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:58 AM   #6
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Update on fridge! I put it over
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:55 PM   #7
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I put it over?
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:41 PM   #8
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Problem solved

Customer did call about the 1200 cooling unit problem. With the call I got more details to help get to bottom of a problem. From the NO CO to not cooling. With questions and answer we pin pointed the problem. Only giving the failed cooling from the LP gas mode. Switch back to AC all cooled down as it should. Switch back to LP gas failure occurred again. As most will say the LP is burning good, nice blue flame. The hardest thing to get across to RV Tech's and customers is the refrigerator does not work from LP gas or AC either, it works from a correct heat value at the correct location. Just having a blue flame does not mean correct heat value. AC can be confirmed by voltage, element resistance, and amp draw, but LP heat value only by color want cut it. The best thing to do when you have a cooling problem on LP gas is to remove the burner and orifice soaking in rubbing alcohol for about 45 minutes to one hour. Once soak is over use a can of compressed air to blow burner and orifice clean or replace with a new burner and orifice. Hope this helps others
I have had customer to throw out a refrigerator because it want cool, spending 1000's of dollars only to have low AC coming to AC elements and having a dirty LP Burner. They did the old touch it's hot test and the LP flame is blue test. All they needed to do is confirm rather using a touch & see blue flame test.
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dforce1 View Post
Customer did call about the 1200 cooling unit problem. With the call I got more details to help get to bottom of a problem. From the NO CO to not cooling. With questions and answer we pin pointed the problem. Only giving the failed cooling from the LP gas mode. Switch back to AC all cooled down as it should. Switch back to LP gas failure occurred again. As most will say the LP is burning good, nice blue flame. The hardest thing to get across to RV Tech's and customers is the refrigerator does not work from LP gas or AC either, it works from a correct heat value at the correct location. Just having a blue flame does not mean correct heat value. AC can be confirmed by voltage, element resistance, and amp draw, but LP heat value only by color want cut it. The best thing to do when you have a cooling problem on LP gas is to remove the burner and orifice soaking in rubbing alcohol for about 45 minutes to one hour. Once soak is over use a can of compressed air to blow burner and orifice clean or replace with a new burner and orifice. Hope this helps others
I have had customer to throw out a refrigerator because it want cool, spending 1000's of dollars only to have low AC coming to AC elements and having a dirty LP Burner. They did the old touch it's hot test and the LP flame is blue test. All they needed to do is confirm rather using a touch & see blue flame test.
Dave Force, I talked with you last week and you gave me some advice. I removed frige, revealed foam and new tape. I checked voltage to AC heating elements, got 112 volts to both fabricated a baffle to direct air into upper condenser coil. Installed stronger fans in normal location and four more were added when I installed cooling unit. 105 deg outside, no sun on ref side of RV and ref at 68 deg running for 24 hours. Now looking for Samsung to replace no cold.
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:39 PM   #10
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Later in day DW and I discussed and shopping for res ref to replace nevercold. Two to choose from 20.1 Kitchenaid or the Samsung 197 . Sears has both and will look tomorrow. Last ref temps today 102 outside, ref 57 deg, freezer 20 deg. The Amish cooling unit went for 18 months just fine and then?
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:03 PM   #11
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When I first turned on my Amish cooling coils the box didn't cool as well as expected.

Because of fear of stripping the threads, I hadn't tightened the screws inside the reefer which pull the cooling coils up tight to the box. If the coils aren't snugged up they will not transfer cooling into the box.

My Norcold works great now.

Good luck
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:21 PM   #12
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Do you clean the burner chimney every spring may need cleaning for better cooling.
The cooling unit needs heat to function correctly produced by electric elements and a good flame from LP burner.
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:57 PM   #13
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I feel your pain. I replaced the cooling unit in my Norcold with an Amish unit. Worked for about 3 months then the same problem. Cold freezer and warm refrigerator. Called Dave Force and he replaced the cooling unit with another--no charge. Since I replaced the first one myself, I had an evaporation cooling technician replace it the second time. This one we got about 4 months out of and then same problems. We had already changed just about every replaceable part in it to no avail. I finally fixed it. A KitchenAid 21 cu ft two door and never had another problem.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:08 PM   #14
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I put it over on electric and working great! I have it set on 4 and may have to put on 3 it's staying at 34-38 now!
Plan on working on the LP next week after the holiday weekend! Will send update when finished.
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