Another Norcold Question

[dcfleetwood]

I have a Norcold 1210 IM and have been having an issue with ice build up on mostly the right side. So recently I found in the manual talk about the flapper and how it's supposed to warm up to help reduce moisture. So here's the questions:
1. Does this really help?
2. Can you get a new plug to wire in as mine has broken wires right at the plug?
3. If I'm not getting 12V is that the board? Couldn't find any diagnostics.

Thanks in advance for any help!

[TXiceman]

These units are not self-defrostingm and ice buildup on the right end of the fins is not uncommon. It all depends on humidity, how much the fridge is opened and how cold you keep the fridge. Some units have a heated frame to help reduce sweating at the gasket and frame.

If you are getting excess frosting, you might do the dollar bit test on the gasket. Several places around the door, place a dollar bill in the door and close it. There should be a definite drag in pulling out the bill. If no resistance, the door gasket is not sealing. You can try to repair the door gasket by heating it with a hair drier and gently pulling the gasket to reshape it.

Question 2...which plug, 120 VAC or a 12 VDC plug?

Question 3....Where are you measuring 12 VDC? Start by following the power wire back and checking fuses.

Ken

[Old-Biscuit]

Flapper between doors has NOTHING to do with ice buildup in freezer
It helps reduce condensation on the doors

Spring Pin Plate assembly cannot be removed/replaced...pulling out of door will damage the wiring and door will have to be replaced
*Spring Pins can be removed by 'pulling' them out of the plate
**End of pins should make contact with the contacts on cabinet---ground source

Flapper can be replaced....
Check heater resistance at the pins---S/B 44ohms +/-

12VDC to flapper is via the connector on flapper...DC+ comes from #8 pin on the P1 connector (bottom of circuit board....numbered from right to left ----#1 pin/far right is DC-)


Fridge has a 'fin frost management' control
*turn heating source off to allow rise in fin temp ....happens roughly every 40 hrs. (NOT a Defrost Mode...just slight increase in food compartment FIN temp to minimize frost)

If you have Lots of frost build up....
Door seals, door alignments, flapper dragging on bottom frame/not fully closing, Doors open for several minutes---allowing warm moist air replace cold air **Right side of FINS is coolest section

Here is a SERVICE MANUAL that covers the 1210 Series
http://www.rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/...d-Service-1210

[dcfleetwood]

I've checked the seals many times and they are sealing when I do the dollar bill test.
The plug I'm talking about is the one that connects into the flapper as a couple of wires broke off right at the plug.
I tested the voltage at the bumps inside the fridge and will check at the pin #8 to see if there's a loss in the line as I'm only getting 4.8V inside. Sounds like the voltage may change based on the board turning it on and off?
One last thing, I did a test to see if it was humidity and we travelled and left the coach plugged in and the refrigerator on 5 and when we got back after three weeks all the ice I had cleaned off before we left was back. So don't think it's the opening of the door and humidity getting in. Hence why I'm researching the function of the flapper and how efficient it might be and help if I get it back in working order.
Thanks again for all your input!

[Old-Biscuit]

Flapper is ON when fridge is ON

Wiring connector on flapper....wiring harness to door are not replaceable
Connector....new flapper
Harness...new door

*If wires in harness are broken....splice wiring using OEM connector