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Old 09-14-2020, 07:46 PM   #1
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Another Water Heater...

I've read a lot of the other Atwood issue threads, and none of the ones I've seen and read are quite like what's going on with mine. I'll try to be specific and not forget anything.

Camper is a 2009 Cirrus 29CBHSE. Water heater is the Atwood GC6AA-10E.

During the early stages of reno, the WH would cycle through the ignition process, but we had no propane. My daughter turned on the electric side with no water connected, so, I changed the element, which was pretty corroded and needed to happen regardless. After changing the element and reinstalling everything exactly how it was, the WH is now literally doing nothing. Neither switch does anything. WH now has water and propane...

Here are things I've checked:
•Wiring diagrams multiple times--wiring is correct
•120V from WH receptacle
•Continuity from the element, DC relay, circuit board, thermal cutoff on thermostat and other thermostat connectors
•Switches are completing circuit
•Circuit board is properly functioning per local dealership
•ECO and thermostat replaced
•All wires are are good (not frayed, etc)
•Battery is reading 13.6V consistently

Dealership wants $135/hour to work on things, hence the attempted diagnosing at home. What am I missing?


Chase
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Old 09-14-2020, 09:37 PM   #2
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Start at the beginning......
12VDC,,,do you have it on White wire (for electric) and on Orange wire (for Gas) at the circuit board when On/Off switches are ON??

Yes then need to follow the DC circuit
Brown wire to thermal fuse then to/thru T-stat and back to circuit board (water temp needs to be below 110*F for t-stat to close)

YES....
Then 12VDC from circuit board to/thru ECO to gas Valve --Red wire (when on gas)---gas valve opens/spark electrode fires
Millivolt current from circuit board to/thru ECO and to gas valve ...Red wire (when on electric....millivolt current allows ECO to be incorporated into control scheme if T-stat fails)

On electric 12VDC would then come from circuit board to DC Relay via Yellow wire---triggers 120VAC to element


NO 12VDC on White/Orange....blown fuse
No 12VDC thru circuit board.....2A fuse on circuit board blown

Common components that will prevent electric & gas from working
*12VDC to the switches
*2A fuse on circuit board
*thermal fuse
*t-stat
*ECO
*Grounds!!!

Voltmeter and follow the DC VOLTAGE....
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Old 09-15-2020, 11:21 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Start at the beginning......
12VDC,,,do you have it on White wire (for electric) and on Orange wire (for Gas) at the circuit board when On/Off switches are ON??

Yes then need to follow the DC circuit
Brown wire to thermal fuse then to/thru T-stat and back to circuit board (water temp needs to be below 110*F for t-stat to close)

YES....
Then 12VDC from circuit board to/thru ECO to gas Valve --Red wire (when on gas)---gas valve opens/spark electrode fires
Millivolt current from circuit board to/thru ECO and to gas valve ...Red wire (when on electric....millivolt current allows ECO to be incorporated into control scheme if T-stat fails)

On electric 12VDC would then come from circuit board to DC Relay via Yellow wire---triggers 120VAC to element


NO 12VDC on White/Orange....blown fuse
No 12VDC thru circuit board.....2A fuse on circuit board blown

Common components that will prevent electric & gas from working
*12VDC to the switches
*2A fuse on circuit board
*thermal fuse
*t-stat
*ECO
*Grounds!!!

Voltmeter and follow the DC VOLTAGE....
Thank you for that! I'll recheck things when I get home.

Quick question: being hooked up to a 20A circuit (house plug is all I have at the moment) shouldn't affect the WH functionality, right?
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Old 09-15-2020, 11:46 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Cirrus_Fam View Post
Thank you for that! I'll recheck things when I get home.

Quick question: being hooked up to a 20A circuit (house plug is all I have at the moment) shouldn't affect the WH functionality, right?
20A outlet is sufficent to operate Electric Element (11.7A_
Need Good Strong 12VDC Voltage for controls/functions (12.5VDC)
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Old 09-19-2020, 02:17 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Cirrus_Fam View Post
Thank you for that! I'll recheck things when I get home.

Quick question: being hooked up to a 20A circuit (house plug is all I have at the moment) shouldn't affect the WH functionality, right?
So, now it's looking like I'm not getting power to the switches, but the battery is showing 12.26V. Should I disconnect the wires from the camper to the battery and then see the battery voltage without it drawing from the AC side? Would that matter? Also, there's a shortstop on the tongue of the trailer--Google wasn't very helpful and I'm not sure what that does. Could/Would that create a problem in regards to getting power to the switches?

If you can't tell, I'm trying to find a problem thats not the wiring from the tongue to the back of the camper, as I would have to take off the undercarriage to trace the wires, and that looks daunting.
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Old 09-19-2020, 03:40 PM   #6
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No voltage at the water heater on/off switches

Do other DC components work...
Water Pump, Lights, fridge interior light etc.
NO...then that 'shortstop' on tongue needs to be reset or replaced
Shortstop is brand of DC Circuit Breaker...some are manual reset
Small button on end/side of it
It is there to protect DC System from shorts
**most any Auto Parts Store






Yes other DC components work
Then check the DC Fuse on DC Dist Panel for water heater
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Old 09-19-2020, 03:54 PM   #7
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Whenever my WH doesn’t work on Gas or Electric both the first thing I check is the Thermal cutoff. It’s easy to bypass the cutoff to test it out. I didn’t see you mention testing that device. If I’m wrong I apologize.
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Old 09-19-2020, 04:06 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
No voltage at the water heater on/off switches

Do other DC components work...
Water Pump, Lights, fridge interior light etc.
NO...then that 'shortstop' on tongue needs to be reset or replaced
Shortstop is brand of DC Circuit Breaker...some are manual reset
Small button on end/side of it
It is there to protect DC System from shorts
**most any Auto Parts Store






Yes other DC components work
Then check the DC Fuse on DC Dist Panel for water heater
Everything else on DC is working. The shortstop looks as though it is original to the trailer, so I'll be replacing it regardless.

As far as the DC fuse, which are you talking about? In the fuse panel in the camper? The 2 amp fuse on the circuit board is good.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-19-2020, 04:07 PM   #9
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Whenever my WH doesn’t work on Gas or Electric both the first thing I check is the Thermal cutoff. It’s easy to bypass the cutoff to test it out. I didn’t see you mention testing that device. If I’m wrong I apologize.
OP doesn't have DC AT the on/off switches

Thermal Cutoff is downstream
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Old 09-19-2020, 04:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
Whenever my WH doesn’t work on Gas or Electric both the first thing I check is the Thermal cutoff. It’s easy to bypass the cutoff to test it out. I didn’t see you mention testing that device. If I’m wrong I apologize.
Thermal cutoff has continuity and isn't visibly broken.
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:56 PM   #11
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The bottom 15A Fuse.... DSI (Direct Spark Ignition -- water heater DC Supply)


Confused???
1st post you stated
*Switches are completing circuit
*Circuit board is properly functioning per local dealership


5th post you stated
*So, now it's looking like I'm not getting power to the switches


Have you actually measured the DC at the switches?
Thru the switches -----White wire & Orange wire?

DC comes from that DC Dist Panel 15A Fuse (DSI) to the on/off switches then to the circuit board
2A Fuse on circuit board only prevents DC on circuit board AFTER the White/Orange .....no affect on those (only the 15A supply fuse and the switches)
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Old 09-21-2020, 02:46 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
The bottom 15A Fuse.... DSI (Direct Spark Ignition -- water heater DC Supply)


Confused???
1st post you stated
*Switches are completing circuit
*Circuit board is properly functioning per local dealership


5th post you stated
*So, now it's looking like I'm not getting power to the switches


Have you actually measured the DC at the switches?
Thru the switches -----White wire & Orange wire?

DC comes from that DC Dist Panel 15A Fuse (DSI) to the on/off switches then to the circuit board
2A Fuse on circuit board only prevents DC on circuit board AFTER the White/Orange .....no affect on those (only the 15A supply fuse and the switches)
Old-Biscuit, you are incredible. Including this thread, you've yet to NOT solve a problem in literally every thread I've seen you help in (I think I've read at least 100).

15 amp DSI fuse was blown (never would've known what that was), and both electric and gas lit right up when I changed out that fuse. Mark this one in your "Completed" list!

That was the last to-do before finally being able to get our camper out of the driveway and in the world, so my family and I can't thank you enough for aiming me in the correct direction!


Chase & FamilyClick image for larger version

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Old 09-21-2020, 05:35 PM   #13
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Hot Water GOOD!

Glad it was easy fix

Question now is WHY did that Source FUSE Blow???
Any work done with on/off switches
When you had dealer verify circuit board was good, did you take the circuit board to them or drop off trailer for them to check??
Suspect that is when 15A FUSE blew cause of a 'short'

Keep an eye on it........
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Old 09-27-2020, 09:53 AM   #14
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Hot Water GOOD!

Glad it was easy fix

Question now is WHY did that Source FUSE Blow???
Any work done with on/off switches
When you had dealer verify circuit board was good, did you take the circuit board to them or drop off trailer for them to check??
Suspect that is when 15A FUSE blew cause of a 'short'

Keep an eye on it........
In my early-camper-ownership days, I literally knew nothing. I'm thinking, looking back, it probably happened when I took the WH out to change the element. I doubt that I turned off the breaker to do that, and may have tripped it in that process. Also, I unplugged the camper from the main power source last winter in a hurry and I've read that can cause issues like this.

I'll definitely keep a better eye on things and I have much better processes for things now. Thanks a bunch!
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