atwood 10 gal hotwater heater isn,t right

[djcanada]

I,ve been trying to get this electric ,propane working again I,ve replaced controls. elements ,relay, theromostat , and the other stat , actually the later 2 4 times and still everything shuts down at 98 electric or gas both the same ,I cleaned the tank, It wasn,t bad at all , the thermostat and ecd, arenew today and again the same so I jumped them both wit fuses and great it heated till it poped the relief valve , so as you can see I,m completly lost I hepair alot of things with no problems but This is one I can,t figure out any suggestions other than toss and put a surburban in , Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

What year is it?

After 2004 the electric & gas are controlled using 12vDC, common set of t-stat/ECO and circuit board
Prior to 2004....electric/gas were totally separate

So have to think you have a 2004-present vintage with common controls

"I,ve replaced controls. elements ,relay, theromostat , and the other stat....T-stat/ECO New today"

Provided they are held TIGHT to WH Tank wall:
T-stat opens at 140*F
ECO opens at 180*F

*If jumpering should only do the T-stat so ECO is still in the control loop
T&P pops open at 210*F/150 PSI....Scalding water/3rd degree burns

Only heating to 98*F on electric and gas
How are you measuring that temp?
Where are you measuring that temp?

Either t-stat is faulty, spade connections are loose, bad GROUNDS or circuit board is faulty

When heating cycle is going on........
Measure DC on Brown wire TO t-stat and FROM t-stat
***Top connector Brown wire is DC TO T-stat
**Bottom connector Brown wire is DC FROM T-stat (thru the Thermal Fuse) Blows at 190*F and NO DC until replaced/removed
DC should still be TO T-stat when heating cycle stops.
**Top Connector Brown wire
IF DC to t-stat drops out during heating cycle then Circuit Board
IF DC from t-stat drops out during heating cycle before reaching 140*F then T-stat is the problem

[Desert Man]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

What year is it?

After 2004 the electric & gas are controlled using 12vDC, common set of t-stat/ECO and circuit board
Prior to 2004....electric/gas were totally separate

So have to think you have a 2004-present vintage with common controls

"I,ve replaced controls. elements ,relay, theromostat , and the other stat....T-stat/ECO New today"

Provided they are held TIGHT to WH Tank wall:
T-stat opens at 140*F
ECO opens at 180*F

*If jumpering should only do the T-stat so ECO is still in the control loop
T&P pops open at 210*F/150 PSI....Scalding water/3rd degree burns

Only heating to 98*F on electric and gas
How are you measuring that temp?
Where are you measuring that temp?

Either t-stat is faulty, spade connections are loose, bad GROUNDS or circuit board is faulty

When heating cycle is going on........
Measure DC on Brown wire TO t-stat and FROM t-stat
***Top connector Brown wire is DC TO T-stat
**Bottom connector Brown wire is DC FROM T-stat (thru the Thermal Fuse) Blows at 190*F and NO DC until replaced/removed
DC should still be TO T-stat when heating cycle stops.
**Top Connector Brown wire
IF DC to t-stat drops out during heating cycle then Circuit Board
IF DC from t-stat drops out during heating cycle before reaching 140*F then T-stat is the problem

THANK You f

[Desert Man]

Biscuit! Fantastic information. I want you for President! I had a service provider go through mine and said it is working? Same scenario as posted. Works great on propane most of the time. No go on the electric side. Have not replaced the heating element because this RV is costing me the same as my ex wife! Any more suggestions? Thank You!

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Desert Man

Biscuit! Fantastic information. I want you for President! I had a service provider go through mine and said it is working? Same scenario as posted. Works great on propane most of the time. No go on the electric side. Have not replaced the heating element because this RV is costing me the same as my ex wife! Any more suggestions? Thank You!

Sorry for your troubles
Yours is an older/earlier version with different controls/wiring etc

Should Post your OWN thread so responses are for your issue and don't get confused with current issue OP is having

[djcanada]

The water heater was put in in 2012 at camping world this is on my mothers 2006 bounder .we been checking the temp at the sink when it has run a while and they have told me there isn,t enough hot water to get a shower anymore they have ordered a new dometic but won,t be here for a month , and the fact is they live in this rv all that being said I thank you for the imput now i have a way to see were the problem lies

[Old-Biscuit]

Atwood GC10A-4E ( Gas Combo 10 gal 4th version Electronic Ignition)
Cut Out Dimensions: 16″ Wide x 15.5″ High x 20.8″ Deep


Dometic WH-10GEA (Water Heater 10 gal Gas/Electric)
Cut-Out Dimensions: 15.75" Wide x 16.25" High x 20.63" Deep



Atwood 10 gal model in 2006 would be the same model in 2012
Pretty short life span for TWO Atwoods???

[djcanada]

hopefully a fifth t stat will be good they have been the same every one of them even the adjustable oneupper 90,s is all then shuts down and will not come back on unless the switch is worked

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by djcanada

hopefully a fifth t stat will be good they have been the same every one of them even the adjustable oneupper 90,s is all then shuts down and will not come back on unless the switch is worked

Did you measure DC Voltage to and from T-stat(s) when heating is occurring?
Also when it shuts down early.

Loss of DC TO T-stat....circuit board
Loss of DC FROM T-stat......t-stat/wire connectors

*When T-stat OPENS there should still be DC TO the t-stat
T-stat controls the heating by opening/closing



Are you SURE the WH Tank BYPASS Valve is NOT leaking thru diluting the Hot water temp?
When heat source shuts off/T-stat Opens......measure water temp via T&P Relief Valve
*CAUTION: S/B 140*F

[djcanada]

Yes sir i did from controller it was 12.9 the other side of the theromastat was 2. after shutting off at around 94

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by djcanada

Yes sir i did from controller it was 12.9 the other side of the theromastat was 2. after shutting off at around 94

Was the 94*F measured with water from T&P Relief or from a faucet?

T-stat closes for heating cycle at 110*F
So how can temp be 94*F?????


WH Tank BYPASS
OR
Inside/outside shower not being turned off via hot/cold knobs but just the 'button'/'lever' on shower handle???


5 t-stats failing?????


Having to turn switch Off/back ON to restart heating cycle suggest Circuit Board issue

[Old-Biscuit]

Are those replacement T-stats : Atwood 91447
12VDC T-stat/ECO

[djcanada]

well that would be about right I bought the more expensive one ,and it has been used to long to return Sounds about right though it has been the same since new the valve could be faulty ,For the most part I,m a good mechanic, and this thing keeps me having second thoughts ,and the poor folks have been with out since may ,camping world did nothing for them but order another that is a month away from delievry, I,m going to do some more tests today and see if i can figure it out while they are away today,I,m a carpenter not an electrician ,here i go thanks for all the info

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by djcanada

well that would be about right I bought the more expensive one ,and it has been used to long to return Sounds about right though it has been the same since new the valve could be faulty ,For the most part I,m a good mechanic, and this thing keeps me having second thoughts ,and the poor folks have been with out since may ,camping world did nothing for them but order another that is a month away from delievry, I,m going to do some more tests today and see if i can figure it out while they are away today,I,m a carpenter not an electrician ,here i go thanks for all the info

Sorry but I feel like I have come in on the middle of a conversation.
The above is not giving any specific info and questions asked are not being answered

Feel like going in circles....hopefully someone can come along and help