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Old 12-17-2019, 04:31 PM   #1
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Atwood adjustable thermostat works well.

We have an Atwood 10gal LP/110v water heater. It worked reasonably well but heating the water and holding it at 140f takes a lot of LP. We boondock a lot and hate having to drive the RV into town and search for propane. This heater does not seem to hold the heat as well either. We were fine with our old 6 gal and quick showers so we decided to swap the thermostat for the adjustable one. Reducing the water temp is how you save energy use on a home water heater.
The replacement is the
Atwood 93105 Adjustable Electronic Thermostat

And it is about $35. Installation is not hard. First you cut away an insulating cover. Then you find that your old thermostat was badly installed and that was part of the problem. You remove it and find that the tank is at a slight angle compared to the outer cover so you may need to bend the holder arms to get it straight. I also added some thermal conducting compound but that's just mes computer nerd. Because of the slightly different setup you may want to zip tie the wires to keep them away from the hot exhaust.

The heater worked as promised. It took less time to get to temp. 110 feels plenty hot. A side benefit is that we won't scald ourselves doing the dishes either. I suspect that it can make more hot water faster than we can use it anyway. If we get company we can crank it up.


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Old 12-17-2019, 04:35 PM   #2
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I find that those are not very robust and the contacts corrode.


Plus bacteria is NOT killed at temps less then 140*F
The American Society of Sanitary Engineering recommends setting the temperature of home water heaters to 135 degrees to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, a range shown to destroy bacteria such as Legionella.



Can turn water heater ON/Off to conserve propane....but I never bothered.
Propane always lasted longer then Full Waste tanks or Empty Fresh Water Tank


Just saying.......
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Old 12-18-2019, 04:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
I find that those are not very robust and the contacts corrode.


Plus bacteria is NOT killed at temps less then 140*F
The American Society of Sanitary Engineering recommends setting the temperature of home water heaters to 135 degrees to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, a range shown to destroy bacteria such as Legionella.



Can turn water heater ON/Off to conserve propane....but I never bothered.
Propane always lasted longer then Full Waste tanks or Empty Fresh Water Tank


Just saying.......
Good point. I will let it get to 140 at least weekly. Our home heaters have always been set to 110 or 120. I wonder if they need to be increased occasionally. Thanks.
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Old 12-18-2019, 05:25 AM   #4
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You can also time your showers and dishes with when you are running the genny to recharge the batteries. Just turn on the electric element and don't use gas at all.
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Old 05-07-2021, 08:36 AM   #5
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Long term appraisal of this part. Not really so good anyway. When not traveling it worked OK and we were able to keep the temperature just hot enough to avoid scalding but still be safe from the bacteria. The problem happens when we hit a large bump. The larger size and awkward mounting supplied with it make it shift out of contact with the tank making the water really hot. It once triggered the over temp shut off. I may need to tape it down or just go back to the original. Recommendation: Only do it if you are willing to fashion a better mounting.
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Old 05-07-2021, 07:40 PM   #6
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the issue is the flimsy standoff bracket and the larger size of the adjustable t-stat

Plus the adjustment setting/contacts are exposed to the environment and don't hold up

Atwood makes a 130*F fixed temp t-stat
Atwood 91470
**many websites will list it as a 120*F but that is not true....Atwood hasn't had the 120*F optionable t-stat for MANY years
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Old 05-08-2021, 01:13 PM   #7
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1st take out your hot water heater. Cover it in insulation. There are many exposed tank areas.
Put in a lower temp thermostat. Or a adjustable.
My heater had a water mixing valve in the back to lower the temp for a 10 gal to seem like a 16 gal. This mixing valve plugged up twice. Threw it out. I can do this the same way at all faucets.
I put a 12v timer in line with the control circuit so the heater comes on twice a day before high usage periods.
This cut my utilities by 25 to 50 dollars per month. Total cost 35.
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Old 05-08-2021, 03:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiesta48 View Post
1st take out your hot water heater. Cover it in insulation. There are many exposed tank areas.
Put in a lower temp thermostat. Or a adjustable.
My heater had a water mixing valve in the back to lower the temp for a 10 gal to seem like a 16 gal. This mixing valve plugged up twice. Threw it out. I can do this the same way at all faucets.
I put a 12v timer in line with the control circuit so the heater comes on twice a day before high usage periods.
This cut my utilities by 25 to 50 dollars per month. Total cost 35.
With Mixing valve removed...t-stat allows heating to 155*F
Need to change the T-stat to Atwood Standard 140*F or even 130*F
And change out the Pin Connector on Brown wire to Small Spade connector (EXT t-stat uses a in Connector)

That way NO surprises at the faucet for unsuspecting folks
*It's the right thing to do
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Old 05-08-2021, 06:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiesta48 View Post
1st take out your hot water heater. Cover it in insulation. There are many exposed tank areas.
Put in a lower temp thermostat. Or a adjustable.
My heater had a water mixing valve in the back to lower the temp for a 10 gal to seem like a 16 gal. This mixing valve plugged up twice. Threw it out. I can do this the same way at all faucets.
I put a 12v timer in line with the control circuit so the heater comes on twice a day before high usage periods.
This cut my utilities by 25 to 50 dollars per month. Total cost 35.

I agree about the poor insulation. I also added insulation to all of the areas that were open to the air. I do turn it on before we need it and shut it off after.

I would like to replace the adjustable thermo to a fixed high enough to kill the bugs but not scalding. I am getting tired of having to slam the knob to cold to chill the burn on my hands. I checked and found that the fed has 2 recommendation. One is that 120f is the max to prevent scalding the other is that 140f to 150f is needed to kill legionnaires. What is right and does Dometic make one?
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Old 05-08-2021, 07:06 PM   #10
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Atwood makes 2 fixed temp t-stats

Atwood 91447 OEM T-stat/ECO (140*F/t-stat & 180*F/ECO---high temp trip)

Atwood 91470 Optional 130*F T-stat
*Some websites will list it as 120*F but that is incorrect. It is a 130*F Fixed temp T-stat (Atwood has not produced/offered 120*F for years)
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Old 05-10-2021, 06:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Atwood makes 2 fixed temp t-stats

Atwood 91447 OEM T-stat/ECO (140*F/t-stat & 180*F/ECO---high temp trip)

Atwood 91470 Optional 130*F T-stat
*Some websites will list it as 120*F but that is incorrect. It is a 130*F Fixed temp T-stat (Atwood has not produced/offered 120*F for years)

Is that 180 high temp trip the left hand one of the two that I have? It is a safety devise to prevent overheating I was told. Ours actually tripped stopping the heater from working at all. The adjustable t-stat had shifted in it's support cage and was not making contact! I had no idea that the water got to 180!

This is part of the reason I want to go back to a regular fixed t-stat. I guess I will order that 130 then.
Thanks
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Old 05-11-2021, 05:23 AM   #12
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If your high temperature thermostat shuts down the heater, carefully push on the center. You should hear or feel a click when the thermostat resets. I use a small stick to reset, so my finger does not touch wires. Maybe, I am too cautious.
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Old 05-11-2021, 04:55 PM   #13
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If your high temperature thermostat shuts down the heater, carefully push on the center. You should hear or feel a click when the thermostat resets. I use a small stick to reset, so my finger does not touch wires. Maybe, I am too cautious.

Interesting. Mine resets itself once the temp falls but it still scares me that my hot water gets to 180f!
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Old 05-11-2021, 08:15 PM   #14
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YES the left one is the ECO (Energy Cut OFF---High temp T-stat)
Shuts down all heating should Normal T-stat Fail/Locks Out reheating and triggers the FAULT Light (180*F0
ECO auto resets when temp drops below 150*F but you have to reset the Lock out/Fault Light by turning On/Off Switch OFF---then back on

T&P Relief Valve is backup to the ECO
It POPS OPEN should T-stat/ECO fail to shut down heating cycle
Opens at 210*F/150 PSI
*Same setting as your Residential Water Heater


*Atwood hasn't used a manual reset high temp t-stat since 2004

**Suburban uses a Manual Reset High Temp T-stat in outside compartment
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