I just go to Menards and get a cpvc plug and a spare for under $1. Use Teflon tape and never had any leaks or broken plugs.
Only issue with PVC/CPVC is they are not heat/pressure rated for the water heater temps that can be achieved.
That is another reason NYLON plug is used
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Ya, it never ceases to amaze me how many people try to "out think" the engineers who design the water heaters.
Were the factory plugs $20 or something ridiculous, I can see looking for a "Plan B". BUT..............
The engineering resulted in a 1/2" bung being installed to drain the tank .
The nylon plugs were decided by the bean counters looking for the cheapest plug .
Does anyone think that they had our best interests in mind ? Nothing would make them happier than us having to buy a new heater because we cross threaded the plug.
Regarding cross threading , a good weld shop can fix it . I've had an Atwood aluminum tank repaired when it froze and split open .
I've used a brass plug for decades . Never had to repair a tank or replace a plug .
Heck , even the 110v HottRod electric heater conversions for propane water heaters are made of brass , and they screw in the drain bung .
Before you start coming down on me for using a piece of brass pipe in the drain hole, remember, the pressure relief valve is made of similar materials and seems to do fine over the life of the water heater. If the aluminum to brass connection was a major problem, the relief valves would have to be made from a different material.
I used a 4 inch by ½ inch brass pipe nipple from Ace Hardware to extend the drain plug past the gas valve allowing access. Harder to find was the ½ inch female pipe thread to male garden hose adapter.
I got one through Amazon = Joywayus Reducer Hex Bushing Brass Reducing Cast Pipe Fitting 1/2" NPT Female x 3/4" G Male Thread Adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Joywayus-Redu.../dp/B07WLQSD6P). The shorter the better.
I don’t allow water to set in my water heater when not using it. I use a short length of ½ inch plastic tubing (available at your local hardware store) to siphon out the water below the drain plug which also sucks out some of the calcium sediments that collect on the bottom of the tank and helps keep the inside of the tank cleaner.
Only issue with PVC/CPVC is they are not heat/pressure rated for the water heater temps that can be achieved.
That is another reason NYLON plug is used
A quick web search on pipe plugs......
CPVC is rated for 400psi @ room temp, and 100 psi at 180*
Nylon is rated 150 psi @ room temp. Psi drops as temps rise.
FWIW....I have never had an issue using $1 PVC/CPVC (I actually use
PVC plug), but if a $20 nylon RV pipe plug makes someone sleep better, thats OK too.
What is the temp and PSI rating of the Atwood TPS relief valve?
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I would stay with the nylon plug. I ordered a spare and keep it in the water heater door. Along with a tube of Teflon paste. I have had the spare for years.
In the fall, spring and winter we do a lot of camping where we need to winterize on the road. It nice having the stuff all in the water heater compartment. Just grab the wrench. I bet we have that plug out at least 10 times a year.
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Art & Joyce
Thornville, OH
Kia Soul pushing a 36' DP Endeavor
Before you start coming down on me for using a piece of brass pipe in the drain hole, remember, the pressure relief valve is made of similar materials and seems to do fine over the life of the water heater. If the aluminum to brass connection was a major problem, the relief valves would have to be made from a different material.
I used a 4 inch by ½ inch brass pipe nipple from Ace Hardware to extend the drain plug past the gas valve allowing access. Harder to find was the ½ inch female pipe thread to male garden hose adapter.
I got one through Amazon = Joywayus Reducer Hex Bushing Brass Reducing Cast Pipe Fitting 1/2" NPT Female x 3/4" G Male Thread Adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Joywayus-Redu.../dp/B07WLQSD6P). The shorter the better.
I don’t allow water to set in my water heater when not using it. I use a short length of ½ inch plastic tubing (available at your local hardware store) to siphon out the water below the drain plug which also sucks out some of the calcium sediments that collect on the bottom of the tank and helps keep the inside of the tank cleaner.
Actually I think what you did is a pretty good idea. I will say though I have used tubing and a shop vac to get all the water out but found out that if you have an electric element you might think you got all the water out but you didn't. I found out when I changed my element, there was still about 1.5 quarts in there. I though I had sucked it all out, even angling the tubing as best I could.
Anyway I decided no point in draining the WH all the time, especially if it's going to leave that much in the bottom. (I understand that the reason is so the element is always under water in case of accidental startup) So far I have never needed to winterize where I live and storing indoors.
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Brian, 2011 Winnebago Via Class A on Sprinter Chassis
2000 Jeep TJ toad
Tucson, AZ
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