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Old 05-26-2022, 09:30 PM   #57
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What would you guys recommend to replace an Atwood 601??
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Old 05-26-2022, 10:43 PM   #58
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Atwood control board

You might try Dinosaur Electronics website. They make some quality replacement control boards. I looked at their small universal board. Thinking it might work for you. They have a cross reference chart to OEM boards on the website. If you can get numbers off your board, there may be a cross. Good luck.
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Old 05-26-2022, 10:54 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbugher View Post
What would you guys recommend to replace an Atwood 601??
Atwood did not publish the cut out dimensions for the HE Series

So........
Here is a Dometic Replacement Chart
http://www.nwtfc.com/wp-content/uplo...ment-Chart.pdf

Here is a Norcold Replacement Chart
http://cdn-tp1.mozu.com/17063-m1/cms...more%20rows%20

OR pick a Residential that will fit the cutout dimensions
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Old 05-27-2022, 12:14 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by Tbugher View Post
With no board it means new fridge. Unless someone knows where I can get one.
A Board from a Suburban or other brand should INTERCHANGE AND work fine; they (ALL) have 12vdc INPUT, DSI SPARK OUTPUT, Flame Sensor INPUT, and 12vdc OUTPUT to solenoid. Simple? But NO DSI or NO Flame sensor signal and 12v output to solenoid shuts off.
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Old 05-27-2022, 12:20 AM   #61
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I worked for a Gas Utility for 38 yrs and never heard it called a value. I call that a gas valve. And that's what you need to replace. If you have gas at the valve inlet and not at the outlet then the valve is bad. Done.
BUT (Qualifier) = ONLY if the Board is sending 12vdc to the Solenoids and TWO solenoids to prevent OVERHEAT
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Old 05-27-2022, 03:20 AM   #62
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I had a soot build up in the stack and some fell and dropped onto the gas tube and it would not light .I just opened the door and blew it out with a air hose it was fine after that. But it sounds like you have more going on.
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Old 05-27-2022, 05:00 AM   #63
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It is an Atwood 601/801 according to Manuel I have
You have a very old refer. You can throw parts at it and maybe get it working, but I’d consider a replacement. Not sure you could get parts for it anyway.
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Old 05-27-2022, 05:26 AM   #64
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So, stupid question, but, does your propane stove ignite?
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Old 05-27-2022, 06:12 AM   #65
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What would you guys recommend to replace an Atwood 601??
The former editor of Trailer Life, Livingston, when his Atwood failed due to the helium leaking out of the system, Dometic gave him a DM2652 or DM2852, I forgot whether it was a 6 or 8 cubic foot?

Short Story: A Dometic hydrogen (H) fridge will last the life of the RV if the boiler is protected from overheating. Our RM2652 is 26 years old, performance is great: fridge 36 and freezer 0 in 90 degree F weather. Fridge Defend boiler protection for 20 years. The other option, go residential and get solar and more batteries, some folks like this route.
I forgot, the Atwood uses a Norcold fridge compartment, the N611 series may just fit right in? We have the sizes posted on our website. I have an N1092 which fits into the 8 cubic foot space, I may sell it?

SCIENCE FACTS:

Helium (He) is mono atomic and Hydrogen (H) is diatomic. H has a much larger atomic radius and in turn stays within pressure vessels much easier and longer. It is for this reason that He gets out of everything, and is used to test pressure vessels. The test is not if the pressure vessel will hold the pressure when charged with He, it is how long does it take for the pressure to drop with He?
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Old 05-27-2022, 08:33 AM   #66
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Is your CO2 sensor working properly
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Old 05-27-2022, 10:20 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THenne1713 View Post
A Board from a Suburban or other brand should INTERCHANGE AND work fine; they (ALL) have 12vdc INPUT, DSI SPARK OUTPUT, Flame Sensor INPUT, and 12vdc OUTPUT to solenoid. Simple? But NO DSI or NO Flame sensor signal and 12v output to solenoid shuts off.
Except they will NOT communicate with the upper Display/Control Board

Quote:
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BUT (Qualifier) = ONLY if the Board is sending 12vdc to the Solenoids and TWO solenoids to prevent OVERHEAT
OP has determined thru TESTING the Single Solenoid Gas Valve WORKS BUT circuit board has Failed...No DC to Gas Valve back in Post #26
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Old 05-27-2022, 10:16 PM   #68
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Read post #58
Try Dinosaur Electronics website I got a board from about 7 or 8 years ago for a 2001
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Old 05-27-2022, 11:07 PM   #69
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Quote:
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Read post #58
Try Dinosaur Electronics website I got a board from about 7 or 8 years ago for a 2001
Atwood HE Series fridge was in production for only a few years
Atwood HE circuit board is NOT cross referenced with Dino Boards

They are an Orphan fridge......parts NLA
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Old 05-28-2022, 06:10 AM   #70
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Overheat?

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Originally Posted by THenne1713 View Post
BUT (Qualifier) = ONLY if the Board is sending 12vdc to the Solenoids and TWO solenoids to prevent OVERHEAT
f(x, y, z) = ?

I am kind of confused by this thread? There is no boiler overheat protection on any absorption fridge unless it has the Fridge Defend.

Is this referencing using a hot water heater controller to control a fridge?

If so, it would be way better to get an integrated igniter Dinosaur board designed for controlling an absorption unit than taking the risk of using a controller that is not designed for refrigeration.

Very few of the Atwood fridge are in service now, as mentioned, they went the way of the Dinosaur. They were an experiment using the general public to test their 'Leveling Method' and 'He', which both failed, and the end user was the guinea pig. I had close to 100 Atwood fridge with the ARP Control (Fridge Defend) on them, out to this number, I know of over half of them that went to the dump.

I am posting this for safety and end user making decisions sake. A fridge should last the life of the RV.
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