Atwood fridge

[Tbugher]

How long should this take to process. It still says processing and no response back when I sent email.

[Tbugher]

The Site old-bisquet put up seems to be a fraud site. Should of looked more into the site. No place to contact except email and will not return. When I go to the site it is a hair site. So on the look for a board else where.

[bearair]

I haven’t read the entire thread but when we had this issue on our 2002 Bounder, one of the two leads to the emergency shutoff switch (located near the LP filler - and totally exposed to road gunk thrown up by right rear tires) had broken off the switch.
We went through everything else before considering the emerg switch. Two minutes to crimp a new spade connector to the wire and reconnect. I’ve since enclosed the switch in a sealed plastic housing.

[M Glanton]

I had the same problem with my fridge Check the flame tube to see if you have a good flame, it could be sooted up or it could be the flame sensor electrode or the igniter. look at the simple stuff first.

[DUKE11]

What's your propane level at?

[ac7nj]

Originally Posted by Tbugher

Have an Atwood fridge that was running on propane and stopped working while out fishing. The fridge will work on AC . Have propane to the value and have spark. Not sure what the problem is for sure. Can someone point me in the right direction? The problem is if it is the value domatic bought Atwood out and I can’t find the value any where. Thanks for any help at all.

All propane appliances have safety parts that won’t let the unit work. One thing is a thermocouple, it test that the flame is hot. Although you still have spark no ignition will occur. This is the first thing to check, if you have a manual it will give you the value to check with your volt ohm meter. No manual then trial and error replacement plan is second best.

[Martin Lamar]

Originally Posted by Tbugher

Have an Atwood fridge that was running on propane and stopped working while out fishing. The fridge will work on AC . Have propane to the value and have spark. Not sure what the problem is for sure. Can someone point me in the right direction? The problem is if it is the value domatic bought Atwood out and I can’t find the value any where. Thanks for any help at all.

I had the same problem last year.
Replaced main board and took care of problem. Still working this year.

[THenne1713]

Dometic solenoid probably work, if needed? All 12vdc, double solenoids, probably same fitting sizes? But I agree, more likely is a bad flame sensor, has to send a millivolt signal to the CBoard

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Tbugher

The Site old-bisquet put up seems to be a fraud site. Should of looked more into the site. No place to contact except email and will not return. When I go to the site it is a hair site. So on the look for a board else where.

Dispute the charge with your CC!

As I stated I haven't used them but they were the ONLY site showing ANY in stock/available

You will not find one elsewhere except via RV salvage

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by bearair

I haven’t read the entire thread but when we had this issue on our 2002 Bounder, one of the two leads to the emergency shutoff switch (located near the LP filler - and totally exposed to road gunk thrown up by right rear tires) had broken off the switch.
We went through everything else before considering the emerg switch. Two minutes to crimp a new spade connector to the wire and reconnect. I’ve since enclosed the switch in a sealed plastic housing.

Originally Posted by M Glanton

I had the same problem with my fridge Check the flame tube to see if you have a good flame, it could be sooted up or it could be the flame sensor electrode or the igniter. look at the simple stuff first.

Originally Posted by DUKE11

What's your propane level at?

Originally Posted by ac7nj

All propane appliances have safety parts that won’t let the unit work. One thing is a thermocouple, it test that the flame is hot. Although you still have spark no ignition will occur. This is the first thing to check, if you have a manual it will give you the value to check with your volt ohm meter. No manual then trial and error replacement plan is second best.

Originally Posted by Martin Lamar

I had the same problem last year.
Replaced main board and took care of problem. Still working this year.

Originally Posted by THenne1713

Dometic solenoid probably work, if needed? All 12vdc, double solenoids, probably same fitting sizes? But I agree, more likely is a bad flame sensor, has to send a millivolt signal to the CBoard

Should read post #26......
Board is NOT sending DC to Gas Valve Solenoid

But boards for that orphan fridge are NLA

[TVdeacon]

Try the gas solenoid valve with jumper wires and 12 volts. Should hear a click. If no click the valve is probably done. For me it came as part of the igniter assembly. Not available by itself. Try Dyers online for parts.

[SkipWatson]

From the looks of your valve it looks like I have the same fridge. Mine had the same symptoms about a year ago and I had to get a new valve. The guy who fixed it told me at the time, that since Dometic bought out Atwood they stopped making those valves. Of his suppliers he found one that still had 2 in stock so he got me one. He told me after they're all gone I may have to replace my fridge.

I found, while I was nursing it along, that if I lightly tapped on the valve while it was trying to light I could get it to open up. That was ok while it was intermittent, but when it got worse and stuck every time it tried to light that no longer worked for me.

Best of luck to you. I hope you're able to find one somebody who still has one.

[DLB JR]

I worked for a Gas Utility for 38 yrs and never heard it called a value. I call that a gas valve. And that's what you need to replace. If you have gas at the valve inlet and not at the outlet then the valve is bad. Done.

[Tbugher]

With no board it means new fridge. Unless someone knows where I can get one.