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Old 09-08-2014, 11:42 PM   #1
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Atwood furnace 8535 III

I am having issues with my forward furnace. Anyways I have to replace the valve assembly. And while replacing it I inspected the burner assy. And found it to be corroded and need of replacing the problem is this burner assy. Is obsolete and has no alternative part numbers. I have searched the web till my fingers have failed me. Would anyone out there know of anyone that sales hard to find parts. The part number I need is Atwood P/N 32811. I have called Atwood and checked with customer service and no luck what so ever. Please help. I want to use the RV this fall, and the nights are getting colder.
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Old 09-09-2014, 03:16 AM   #2
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I take it that the burner is actually burned out and not just rusty. If just rusty, it can be cleaned. If burned out, you might be better off replacing the whole furnace as the heat exchanger will be not far out from needing replacing. The nearly 20 year old furnace will begin to nickel and dime you to death and you surely don't want it to be unsafe.
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Old 09-14-2014, 06:06 PM   #3
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well I figured out what the problem was. It's a bad high limit switch. the burner is just a little rusty I cleaned the loose rust and cleaned up nicely. I am now in the process of replacing the limit switch. I need some advice Which is the best way to tackle this? It looks as if I have to remove the entire furnace to get to the limit switch. And are there special pop rivets that I use, what size will I need? Any and all advice will help. Thank you!
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Old 09-15-2014, 02:22 AM   #4
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Yes, pull the furnace out of the case after wiring and lp gas line is disconnected The replacement high limit should already be riveted to a mounting plate that is screwed into place on the heat exchanger.
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Old 09-16-2014, 11:37 AM   #5
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well my question about that. #1,Is the whole door assembly that is pop riveted to the side of the MH have to come off? #2 And the pop rivets used have extra large heads. Are they a special kind of pop rivets? Or just normal ones with large heads? #3 Does the whole Assembly come out in one unit? Or do I have to dissemble the unit before I get to the heat exchanger?
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:28 AM   #6
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Usually, screws are used to attach the furnace door panel. I suppose pop rivets could have been used. Why don't you send a photo so I can make sure we are on the same page. Once you gain access you should be able to remove the furnace and leave the casing installed in the coach.
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:36 PM   #7
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Atwood Furnace

hop you can tell by the pictures what I am talking about, If you need more let me know. I am checking my messages often say 2-3 times a hour.
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:55 PM   #8
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I don't like tearing into things blindly. It can get people into trouble sometimes. Although I have a lot of experience mechanically, from commercial aircraft @ BF Goodrich aerospace, to auto mechanic, and diesel mechanic in the US Navy
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Old 09-18-2014, 03:19 AM   #9
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This is the older style and yes, drilling out the rivets and completely removing the entire furnace will be required if you cannot get to the backside of the furnace from inside the coach. You may be able to use screws when reinstalling in lieu of rivets. Quite a job but try to find out why you are loosing air flow to cause the high limit to be cycling and go bad. It can be a discharge or return air issue.
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Old 09-19-2014, 11:02 AM   #10
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well I removed the rivets, And no way to reinstall new rivets. So I purchased some screws to hold the unit. The high limit switch is open and not cycling on and off. I purchased new Atwood limit switch. And I am replacing the burner gasket as well. The hear exchanger looks to be in great shape. No rust, no holes, don't even show much signs of heat. I am still waiting for the gasket to make it here. Purchased my parts from e bay and American RV Company.
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:32 PM   #11
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I am looking for that burner also. Any suggestions where to look? Thanks ,H
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