Atwood Gas/Electric Water Heater Issues HELP

[ChristoRV]

Since I just bought this 02 Winnie Adventurer used, I wanted to make sure everything worked... even though I was assured everything did, and I am sure they did several years ago when the PO last used it... any-who... so far everything works just peachy until it came time to test the water heater... I had de-winterized her over the weekend as we plan on a few more trips before we tuck her away for the winter hibernation.

Electric - seems to heat for 2 secs, I get 1 min of hot water from sink. No idea what could be wrong - checked main breaker for WH, its on, switch above micro, is on.

Gas - I JUST replaced the ECO/T-Stat sensors and gasket - before I did that, I would turn on the switch at the control panel, it would light, you'd hear the whoosh, and then see the pretty blue flame working in the tube just fine... would fire for about 2 mins, then quit and I would get pilot light error. I read that sometimes if they had been sitting it may take a few tries. I gave it 10, still didnt wanna stay lit. I noticed those ECO/T-Stat sensors looked like crap and the sticky gasket overlay was bad, so I figured it might be that and ordered new kit. It came today. I installed, cleaned out the flu, cleaned wires, hooked it all up, turned switch on and I got 3-4 mins of strong flame, then it quit, but then retried to start itself 3 times, it did not do this before... so I am thinking progress.

I have an Atwood 10 Gallon Gas/Electric Water Heater Model#GCH10A-3E

So... where do I go from here?

[RVingNow]

When I bought my 03 I had to rebuild the water heater which had several issues. First, I discovered the thermal cut off switch needed replacing. This allowed my unit to work on gas and so I was set for quite awhile. It sounds like your unit needs a new thermopile. The thermopile keeps the gas flowing by detecting the heat of the flame. My unit would not work on 120v and consistently tripped the 20a breaker. Once the electric element and anode were replaced, I had a fully operational heater. So for less than $50 everything is now working fine. Good Luck.

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by RVingNow

When I bought my 03 I had to rebuild the water heater which had several issues. First, I discovered the thermal cut off switch needed replacing. This allowed my unit to work on gas and so I was set for quite awhile. It sounds like your unit needs a new thermopile. The thermopile keeps the gas flowing by detecting the heat of the flame. My unit would not work on 120v and consistently tripped the 20a breaker. Once the electric element and anode were replaced, I had a fully operational heater. So for less than $50 everything is now working fine. Good Luck.

I will order a new thermopile thingy, and see if I can at least get gas. I need to figure out how to get to the electric anode - it is not readily accessible on mine...

[Old-Biscuit]

OK......
Lets back up a bit and slow down
1st off the 'thermal cutoff' is a One Shot FUSE...blows at 190*F if blowback happens (Flame outside of combustion chamber)
It either works (allows DC) or it doesn't work (NO DC)

2nd....
'Pilot Light' is a FAULT Light indicating flame sensing has failed OR ECO has opened
Your issue....flame lights then goes out is flame sensing issue
Spark electrode provides high voltage for ignition of gas BUT also is pathway for flame signal that proves gas lit/stayed lit
That old of a unit....REPLACE the Spark Electrode (what is being called the thermal thingy)

**NO ANODE only Suburban Uses them

Electric ELEMENT is located on backside of WH Tank under the cover at bottom area. Your '3E' version uses separate set of 120VAC t-stat/ECO also under that cover...ECO is manual reset...via hole in cover using eraser end of pencil to push reset button
120VAC comes from a Circuit Breaker to the OEM on/off switch on cover then to/thru T-stat/ECO to element (Black wire) Then back to Main AC Panel via Neutral (White wire)
RV MFG may have installed an On/Off Switch for electric inside RV...wired in series with OEM switch on cover
*Both have to be ON --- can control via inside switch

GCH10A-3e
G==GAS
C==Combo electric/gas
H==Heat Exchanger---engine coolant flow thru tube heating water as you drive
10A==10 gal capacity tank
3==3rd Version/Revision
E==Electronic Ignition (no pilot---uses high voltage spark)




https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...3e-tune-up-kit

Wiring diagram for DC ---propane side (6 gallon/10 gallon same)


Wiring diagram for AC
E/D are terminals on T-stat
A is the Resettable ECO
B/C are terminals on ECO
F is 120V AC HOT
G is 120V AC Neutral

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

OK......
Lets back up a bit and slow down
1st off the 'thermal cutoff' is a One Shot FUSE...blows at 190*F if blowback happens (Flame outside of combustion chamber)
It either works (allows DC) or it doesn't work (NO DC)

2nd....
'Pilot Light' is a FAULT Light indicating flame sensing has failed OR ECO has opened
Your issue....flame lights then goes out is flame sensing issue
Spark electrode provides high voltage for ignition of gas BUT also is pathway for flame signal that proves gas lit/stayed lit
That old of a unit....REPLACE the Spark Electrode (what is being called the thermal thingy)

**NO ANODE only Suburban Uses them

Electric ELEMENT is located on backside of WH Tank under the cover at bottom area. Your '3E' version uses separate set of 120VAC t-stat/ECO also under that cover...ECO is manual reset...via hole in cover using eraser end of pencil to push reset button
120VAC comes from a Circuit Breaker to the OEM on/off switch on cover then to/thru T-stat/ECO to element (Black wire) Then back to Main AC Panel via Neutral (White wire)
RV MFG may have installed an On/Off Switch for electric inside RV...wired in series with OEM switch on cover
*Both have to be ON --- can control via inside switch

GCH10A-3e
G==GAS
C==Combo electric/gas
H==Heat Exchanger---engine coolant flow thru tube heating water as you drive
10A==10 gal capacity tank
3==3rd Version/Revision
E==Electronic Ignition (no pilot---uses high voltage spark)




https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...3e-tune-up-kit

Wiring diagram for DC ---propane side (6 gallon/10 gallon same)


Wiring diagram for AC
E/D are terminals on T-stat
A is the Resettable ECO
B/C are terminals on ECO
F is 120V AC HOT
G is 120V AC Neutral

You seem to know yer stuff!

Ok, I have ordered a new Spark electrode, or thingy.

My unit is completely encased in a box on passenger side of chassis just in front of entrance door to coach.

I climbed underneath, there is a pack of wires in conduit that go up and into the case, and thats it. So if anything is on the backside, I will have to pull it out of its cage.

I went to try it again, now I just get the greet light on, no ignition, no spark, no red error light as I have in the past several tries... so something finally went kaput.

[Ray,IN]

Follow old-biscuit's advice. He talked me though fixing mine last year, it's still working as designed. I did have to repeat cleaning the contacts on the control board 3X with a pencil eraser, shoulda done it right the first time.

[Old-Biscuit]

RV Engineers/Designers are lacking common sense.

Installing a water heater W/O readily available ACCESS is ludicrous.
ALL Engineers/designers SHOULD have to work at repair shop for minimum of 6 months BEFORE being allowed to do ANY design work


OP.....
Is there ANY removable panel for access (underneath water heater, from side compartment, from inside RV)
Engineers/designers like to hide those also

Having to remove water heater to fix/repair/replace electric --- might as well not even have electric option
Atwood engineers/designers are boneheads...installing element/controls on BACKSIDE is idiotic
Even 'newest' version STILL has element and relay on backside

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

RV Engineers/Designers are lacking common sense.

Installing a water heater W/O readily available ACCESS is ludicrous.
ALL Engineers/designers SHOULD have to work at repair shop for minimum of 6 months BEFORE being allowed to do ANY design work


OP.....
Is there ANY removable panel for access (underneath water heater, from side compartment, from inside RV)
Engineers/designers like to hide those also

Having to remove water heater to fix/repair/replace electric --- might as well not even have electric option
Atwood engineers/designers are boneheads...installing element/controls on BACKSIDE is idiotic
Even 'newest' version STILL has element and relay on backside

You are SO RIGHT! LMAO - I ordered a new control board too, JIC that also may have failed...

I talked to an RV expert last night, local guy, he is familiar with my rig, he said the only way to repair and replace that element is to remove the WH from the MH, do the repairs to the electrical side, and then put it back in. He thinks he can do it in under two hours. Between parts and his labor, I will have about $400 into this unit, which is ok I guess, considering a new one is about $600 plus labor...

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by ChristoRV

You are SO RIGHT! LMAO - I ordered a new control board too, JIC that also may have failed...

I talked to an RV expert last night, local guy, he is familiar with my rig, he said the only way to repair and replace that element is to remove the WH from the MH, do the repairs to the electrical side, and then put it back in. He thinks he can do it in under two hours. Between parts and his labor, I will have about $400 into this unit, which is ok I guess, considering a new one is about $600 plus labor...

I have the same heater, I have access to the back of the unit by removing a small protective panel on the back of the bay.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

ChristoRV-

According to the plumbing diagrams for your coach (link here), the water heater is located in a compartment ahead of the entry stairs, below the floor.

On some Winnebago models with the water heater below the floor, the access to the rear of the water heater is through a removable metal plate located under the coach. I would look there before having someone remove the water heater. Less likely, but possible, are access plates forward or aft of the water heater.

It appears as if your coach may have a circulation loop fed by the Ford engine coolant. Winnebago calls this "Motor Aid"; the manual (link here) mentions Motor Aid on page 8-13. On that same page it says:

Have your authorized dealer check all hose clamp connections on the rear automotive heater and the motor aid water heater at least every six months and tighten them if necessary.

This recommendation implies there is access to the water heater that does not require its removal.

Note: According to reports, Winnebago water heater access holes can be small.

Other information on your Winnebago, such as parts list and electrical diagrams, are available via this link.

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

ChristoRV-

According to the plumbing diagrams for your coach (link here), the water heater is located in a compartment ahead of the entry stairs, below the floor.

On some Winnebago models with the water heater below the floor, the access to the rear of the water heater is through a removable metal plate located under the coach. I would look there before having someone remove the water heater. Less likely, but possible, are access plates forward or aft of the water heater.

It appears as if your coach may have a circulation loop fed by the Ford engine coolant. Winnebago calls this "Motor Aid"; the manual (link here) mentions Motor Aid on page 8-13. On that same page it says:

This recommendation implies there is access to the water heater that does not require its removal.

Note: According to reports, Winnebago water heater access holes can be small.

Other information on your Winnebago, such as parts list and electrical diagrams, are available via this link.

Thank you! Will be digging into this soon...

[ChristoRV]

Wanted to FU on this - it turns out I had two issues;

1. Bad control board - replaced.
2. That thermo thingy that sticks to the front and you plug some wires into it - bad - replaced.

All is working 100% now.

THANK YOU to everyone who piped in and offered help and suggestions, truly appreciated!