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Old 10-19-2021, 06:30 PM   #1
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Atwood GC10A-4E problem with electric element

Hey y'all, I'm having a problem with my water heater.
The electric element is not working.
Not getting any hot water when electric is turned on. Works fine with propane.

I have replaced the thermostats and heating element.
Checked white signal wire, 12v.
Checked yellow wire, 12v.
Checked power to heating element, 120v.
Checked ohms on heating element, 12.4ohm.

Idk what else to look for.
Any help/advise would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 10-19-2021, 07:27 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granttruitt View Post
Hey y'all, I'm having a problem with my water heater.
The electric element is not working.
Not getting any hot water when electric is turned on. Works fine with propane.

I have replaced the thermostats and heating element.
Checked white signal wire, 12v.
Checked yellow wire, 12v.
Checked power to heating element, 120v.
Checked ohms on heating element, 12.4ohm.

Idk what else to look for.
Any help/advise would be appreciated.

Thanks
First question, how long did you let heat?
Second question, did you ever allow the new element to heat, without water in the tank, after you checked its resistance?

From your list of checks and new parts, you seem to have covered all the possibilities. If every test you mentioned was done, you have 120v at the element and the element is good, the water should heat unless something is cutting power, ac or dc, that you are not aware of. There is a dc relay at the rear of the tank that controls the ac power. That relay may be bad or the power to that relay may get cut somehow. You would know because ac to the element would stop.

Try turning on the electric heat and test for 120v at the element. Let the heater alone and retest every 15 min or so. If ac is always present, the water will be getting warm. If you lose ac, something has failed. Could be switch, relay, or control board of heater.
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Old 10-19-2021, 07:39 PM   #3
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same thing happened to us a couple of years ago..electric not working but gas is. if i recall correctly the problem was the thermal cutoff which i believe is inserted between the brown wire and the T-Stat connection. if you pull it out of the line and use your handy multi-meter i'll bet you'll find no continutiy. i picked up two replacements, one for the line and a spare...about $6-$7 each. ez replacement.
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Old 10-19-2021, 08:57 PM   #4
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If thermal cut off was bad (blown) it wouldn't work on GAS or Electric
No DC back to circuit board so no functions on either heat source

I have replaced the thermostats and heating element.
Checked white signal wire, 12v.
Checked yellow wire, 12v.
Checked power to heating element, 120v.
Checked ohms on heating element, 12.4ohm.

Thermostats....same for gas & Electric
12VDC On white wire to board---CHECK
12VDC on yellow wire from board---CHECK
Checked power to heating element, 120v.----???
How/where did you check that 120VAC
*DC Relay must CLOSE to ALLOW 120VAC to Element

Checked ohms on heating element, 12.4ohm.-----CHECK 1400W element 10.3 ohms ---12.4 ohms/1100W

Electric ----- 6.2 gal/HOUR recovery rate from initial fill temp of 70*F
From 110*F (t-stat closes for reheat) it can take ~32 minutes to fully heat that 10 gals to 140*F (t-stat opens)
**Propane ~19 minutes
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
If thermal cut off was bad (blown) it wouldn't work on GAS or Electric
No DC back to circuit board so no functions on either heat source

I have replaced the thermostats and heating element.
Checked white signal wire, 12v.
Checked yellow wire, 12v.
Checked power to heating element, 120v.
Checked ohms on heating element, 12.4ohm.

Thermostats....same for gas & Electric
12VDC On white wire to board---CHECK
12VDC on yellow wire from board---CHECK
Checked power to heating element, 120v.----???
How/where did you check that 120VAC
*DC Relay must CLOSE to ALLOW 120VAC to Element

Checked ohms on heating element, 12.4ohm.-----CHECK 1400W element 10.3 ohms ---12.4 ohms/1100W

Electric ----- 6.2 gal/HOUR recovery rate from initial fill temp of 70*F
From 110*F (t-stat closes for reheat) it can take ~32 minutes to fully heat that 10 gals to 140*F (t-stat opens)
**Propane ~19 minutes
i'm here to tell ya that the thermal cutoff was bad (no continuity. our WH would not work on elec but worked fine on gas. good luck with your diagnosis and repair.
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:57 PM   #6
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Atwood GC10A-4E problem with electric element

Quote:
Originally Posted by rk911 View Post
i'm here to tell ya that the thermal cutoff was bad (no continuity. our WH would not work on elec but worked fine on gas. good luck with your diagnosis and repair.
DC can NOT get back to circuit board if Thermal cut off is bad....
DC comes from White (electric) and/or Orange (Gas) to circuit board
Then from circuit board to T-stat via Brown wire
Thru T-stat then Thermal Cut Off and Back to circuit board via Brown Wire

Whether gas or electric DC has to go thru Thermal Cut Off in order for ANY gas/electric to function
No other route for Gas....same as electric


Atwood Water Heater iring Diagram...Since 2004 for 6 and 10 gal gas/electric

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