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Old 05-11-2021, 11:09 AM   #1
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Atwood No Hot Water on Electric

2011 Itasca with Atwood model GCH10A-4E water heater.

Trying to troubleshoot this and hoping for guidance. It works on LP as expected so I think the thermal cut out are all working as expected. I flushed the tank and soaked with vinegar about 2 months ago.

There is low voltage coming in from the control panel (white wire 2) and going through the circuit board and out (yellow wire) to the relay. Then the wires disappear into the back...

I believe that means everything is working and my probable issue is either the relay or the element.

Any ideas on how to find out? There is no access to the back of this thing from the inside that I can find.
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Old 05-11-2021, 04:06 PM   #2
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Check the 110 volt breaker. If that is good you are going to gain access to the back of the water heater to check the relay and element.
I had a burnt connection in the junction box containing the relay and element.
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Old 05-11-2021, 04:08 PM   #3
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You are correct that all gas controls are used for the electrical controls, sending 12 volts to the aux relay.
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Old 05-11-2021, 05:25 PM   #4
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Go outside and see if you can take a photo of the data plate inside heater compartment. then Go online and get the online ATWOOD Manual or call Atwood for any questions you may have. Typically you have 115 volts ac coming into from your heater on-off switch, power routes thru thermostat and on to element. If you have a volt-om meter you and check for voltage as it enters and leaves thermostat, then at the heater element, if you do have 115 volts on the two element terminals, turn off power, ( TURN OFF POWER) then disconnect just one of the wires from the element, using OHM settings on your VOM, check to see if you have any resistance
in the heating element, if no, or if zero, you have a burnt out element and you need to take out the old element, SOCKET WRENCH, HEX FITTING, take it to nearby RV Supply place, or Camping world ect.
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Old 05-11-2021, 05:37 PM   #5
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If you locate the electric element terminals, check with meter; if no voltage= control issue; if 120vac, then element burned out.
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Old 05-11-2021, 05:58 PM   #6
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I'm not sure about that make model specifically but my old one had elec element, an over temp sw and a thermostatic sw. They are not all that expensive so good to replace all three if problem with any.
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Old 05-11-2021, 07:58 PM   #7
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Your 2011 Atwood GCH10A-4E does use common 12VDC for electric and gas operation
YES.......thermal fuse is good otherwise neither gas or electric would work

DC on that Yellow wire when on Electric is correct
It goes to the DC Relay and when closed allows 120VAC from Circuit Breaker to the Element (Black Wires)



DC Relay AND Element are on backside of WH Tank under the protective cover
**Both DC and AC are inside that cover

Could be bad DC Relay \
Could be Bad Black AC wire In or Out of Relay
Could be Bad Element

With Electric selected...water in tank cold
Check that DC Relay is closed (DC on Yellow then to Ground)
Check If you have 120VAC on Black wire In/Out of Relay when closed
Check for 120VAC on Black to White wires on element
*With AC OFF. check continuity of element (disconnect white wire...check between black & white terminals)
NO continuity ...bad element
Check for continuity between white wire terminal & element flange
YES continuity....element is shorted


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Old 05-15-2021, 09:32 AM   #8
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When my same water heater went out I had to replace the control circuit board. Worked on gas but not electric. Buy the Dinosaur unit. It is heavier duty.
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Old 05-15-2021, 12:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiesta48 View Post
When my same water heater went out I had to replace the control circuit board. Worked on gas but not electric. Buy the Dinosaur unit. It is heavier duty.
OP stated
There is low voltage coming in from the control panel (white wire 2) and going through the circuit board and out (yellow wire) to the relay. Then the wires disappear into the back...

DC on Yellow wire from circuit board goes to the DC Relay
Circuit Board is functioning...issue is at DC Relay and/or Electric Element

Troubleshooting is easy and simple vs throwing parts at it


I agree...IF---IF circuit board has failed then Dino Board is better replacement
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