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Old 04-23-2021, 09:41 PM   #15
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i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?
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Old 04-24-2021, 05:17 AM   #16
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A mix of galvanically active dissimilar metals can present a galling situation such as was the OP's complaint.
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Old 04-24-2021, 06:09 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by amosnandy View Post
. At the first sign of rounding the corners or striped threads toss it and put a new one in.
Atwood recommends a new plug each time that you drain the tank but I usually use the same one 2 or 3 times. I did use a plug too long with my first Atwood water heater and had to drill it out and then cut & scrape the last of it so learned that lesson the hard way.
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Old 04-24-2021, 09:13 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by tombottcat View Post
i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?
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A mix of galvanically active dissimilar metals can present a galling situation such as was the OP's complaint.
The way you perform your water heater maintenance is admirable, and is no doubt mitigating the galvanic potential. Also, water quality and frequency of heating play a part in galvanic corrosion as well, so there are many variables.


The point really is, use of dissimilar metals, such as aluminum and brass, will, eventually, lead to galvanic corrosion, if proper protections are not taken. Water heater manufacturers require specific metals to be used to avoid any problems with corrosion because, a) they know it is inevitable, and b) most rv owners are not as conscientious as you.
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Old 04-24-2021, 09:16 AM   #19
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Teflon tape does NOT electrically isolate the plug from the tank.


If you doubt that, check with your ohm meter. You will find 0 ohms= continuity.
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Old 04-24-2021, 09:22 AM   #20
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Ironically, the T&P valve is made of brass. But when my bag of nylon drain plugs arrives on Tuesday that Brass drain valve is coming out.
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Old 04-24-2021, 09:23 AM   #21
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i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?
You have gotten lucky. Probably because you use Teflon tape. Probably over do it. Throw the brass away and put a nylon one in. If the brass cuts through the tape and contacts the aluminum eventually it will eat the aluminum threads.

$7 a dozen on Amazon.
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Old 04-24-2021, 07:31 PM   #22
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Thought these tanks were made up from SS so as to be corrosion free, and not need any sacrificial anode.
Atwood water heater service manual-pdf page 26 description of tank construction. It does not use an anode, there is no corrosion if directions are followed.
Page 26 also describes the galvanic corrosion resulting from using an iron plug.
DO NOT REMOVE AND DISCARD THE OVER TEMPERATURE/OVER PRESSURE DEVICE AND REPLACE WITH ANY TYPE OF PLUG!


A side note concerning galvanic action. I forgot and put aluminum valve caps on my brass pickup truck stems. Eventually I had to add air to them, they were very difficult to remove, twisted one valve stem off resulting in having to remove wheel and take it to a tire repair shop for a new valve stem with attached TPMS, $49.
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Old 04-24-2021, 08:24 PM   #23
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Ironically, the T&P valve is made of brass. But when my bag of nylon drain plugs arrives on Tuesday that Brass drain valve is coming out.
Correct....the T&P is brass
BUT it is NOT routinely removed/reinstalled like the drain plug

Come time to replace you will find they are a real bugger to loosen
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Old 04-25-2021, 06:09 AM   #24
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Actually, the weeping one I replaced in the Allegro 31IA several years back came out quite easily. The difficulty was finding a "Shortie" that wouldn't bottom out in the tank.
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Old 04-25-2021, 02:49 PM   #25
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Actually, the weeping one I replaced in the Allegro 31IA several years back came out quite easily. The difficulty was finding a "Shortie" that wouldn't bottom out in the tank.

Home Depot, Lowes, ACE etc
Just a standard T&P with 4" probe

Nothing RV Special
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Old 04-25-2021, 03:05 PM   #26
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I didn't read all comments but have you tried a socket for square head that most of these plugs are made with. A 12point will only work on fairly loose ones.
I have rigged a setup for 1/2 or 3/4 head plugs with square end of socket and nut with matching nut and socket.
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Old 04-27-2021, 05:32 PM   #27
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thanks for all the reply's since I broke part of it off I think I have a problem just going leave it alone still works fine just wanted to clean it out . thanks again everyone
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Old 04-28-2021, 07:55 AM   #28
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i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?

Like tombottcat above, I had been using a brass plug on our Atwood tank and draining it after every trip. Even with teflon tape I noticed the tank drain threads were getting pretty rough looking. I was able to clean them up with a wire brush and ran the brass plug in and out a few times.
I ordered a bag of nylon plugs and will use them from now on. This heater is 16-17 years old and doesn't need any additional help to deteriorate.
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