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04-23-2021, 09:41 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Airdrie Alberta Canada
Posts: 101
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i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?
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04-24-2021, 05:17 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,996
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A mix of galvanically active dissimilar metals can present a galling situation such as was the OP's complaint.
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TandW
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04-24-2021, 06:09 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Part-time out of Mesquite, TX
Posts: 1,103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amosnandy
. At the first sign of rounding the corners or striped threads toss it and put a new one in.
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Atwood recommends a new plug each time that you drain the tank but I usually use the same one 2 or 3 times. I did use a plug too long with my first Atwood water heater and had to drill it out and then cut & scrape the last of it so learned that lesson the hard way.
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04-24-2021, 09:13 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tombottcat
i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW
A mix of galvanically active dissimilar metals can present a galling situation such as was the OP's complaint.
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The way you perform your water heater maintenance is admirable, and is no doubt mitigating the galvanic potential. Also, water quality and frequency of heating play a part in galvanic corrosion as well, so there are many variables.
The point really is, use of dissimilar metals, such as aluminum and brass, will, eventually, lead to galvanic corrosion, if proper protections are not taken. Water heater manufacturers require specific metals to be used to avoid any problems with corrosion because, a) they know it is inevitable, and b) most rv owners are not as conscientious as you.
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Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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04-24-2021, 09:16 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7,870
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Teflon tape does NOT electrically isolate the plug from the tank.
If you doubt that, check with your ohm meter. You will find 0 ohms= continuity.
__________________
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38FDDS. Ex: 1997 Safari Sahara. Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
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04-24-2021, 09:22 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,996
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Ironically, the T&P valve is made of brass. But when my bag of nylon drain plugs arrives on Tuesday that Brass drain valve is coming out.
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TandW
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04-24-2021, 09:23 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tombottcat
i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?
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You have gotten lucky. Probably because you use Teflon tape. Probably over do it. Throw the brass away and put a nylon one in. If the brass cuts through the tape and contacts the aluminum eventually it will eat the aluminum threads.
$7 a dozen on Amazon.
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey
39K
Cat C7
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04-24-2021, 07:31 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW
Thought these tanks were made up from SS so as to be corrosion free, and not need any sacrificial anode.
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Atwood water heater service manual-pdf page 26 description of tank construction. It does not use an anode, there is no corrosion if directions are followed.
Page 26 also describes the galvanic corrosion resulting from using an iron plug.
DO NOT REMOVE AND DISCARD THE OVER TEMPERATURE/OVER PRESSURE DEVICE AND REPLACE WITH ANY TYPE OF PLUG!
A side note concerning galvanic action. I forgot and put aluminum valve caps on my brass pickup truck stems. Eventually I had to add air to them, they were very difficult to remove, twisted one valve stem off resulting in having to remove wheel and take it to a tire repair shop for a new valve stem with attached TPMS, $49.
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2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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04-24-2021, 08:24 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW
Ironically, the T&P valve is made of brass. But when my bag of nylon drain plugs arrives on Tuesday that Brass drain valve is coming out.
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Correct....the T&P is brass
BUT it is NOT routinely removed/reinstalled like the drain plug
Come time to replace you will find they are a real bugger to loosen
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I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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04-25-2021, 06:09 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,996
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Actually, the weeping one I replaced in the Allegro 31IA several years back came out quite easily. The difficulty was finding a "Shortie" that wouldn't bottom out in the tank.
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TandW
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04-25-2021, 02:49 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW
Actually, the weeping one I replaced in the Allegro 31IA several years back came out quite easily. The difficulty was finding a "Shortie" that wouldn't bottom out in the tank.
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Home Depot, Lowes, ACE etc
Just a standard T&P with 4" probe
Nothing RV Special
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I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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04-25-2021, 03:05 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 8,300
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I didn't read all comments but have you tried a socket for square head that most of these plugs are made with. A 12point will only work on fairly loose ones.
I have rigged a setup for 1/2 or 3/4 head plugs with square end of socket and nut with matching nut and socket.
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95 Monaco Crown Royale
M11 400hp, 4060 trans.
Aquahot, Generac Guardian7.5k
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04-27-2021, 05:32 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 105
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thanks for all the reply's since I broke part of it off I think I have a problem just going leave it alone still works fine just wanted to clean it out . thanks again everyone
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04-28-2021, 07:55 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tombottcat
i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?
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Like tombottcat above, I had been using a brass plug on our Atwood tank and draining it after every trip. Even with teflon tape I noticed the tank drain threads were getting pretty rough looking. I was able to clean them up with a wire brush and ran the brass plug in and out a few times.
I ordered a bag of nylon plugs and will use them from now on. This heater is 16-17 years old and doesn't need any additional help to deteriorate.
__________________
Burns & Diane
2005 Winnebago Aspect 26A/2012 Subaru Impreza toad
Illinois! - Where the politicians make the license plates......
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