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Old 04-28-2021, 11:33 AM   #29
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I had a bugger of a time removing the nylon plug in our WH , it literally came out in pieces . The PO apparently never drained the tank for 15 years , since it was stored in a heated shop
since new.

Replaced with a brass plug with teflon tape . I used to remove the plug every winter and clean the threads in the tank bung . Since the pressure relief valve is brass , what's the difference?

In addition , I added a 120v heater , HottRod , that goes in the drain plug hole and it's reducer is brass. I remove it every winter just like the plug .

No corrosion issues in the 5 years we've owned the rig.
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Old 04-28-2021, 11:56 AM   #30
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Without meaning to dispute what has been said about brass & aluminum, in practice it is rarely a problem in RV heaters. Camco & Valterra have been selling brass petcocks for heaters for a good 20 years and there must be thousands of them installed. And the PT valve in your tank is probably brass too

Galvanic corrosion of brass-aluminum is typically minimal to non-existent unless other factors are present, e.g. high alkalinity on the water, or stray electrical currents in the chassis. And yes, those do happen, and when they do, a heater tank can literally crumble away.

I'm not suggesting that a brass plug is an ok thing to use - just trying to add some perspective and avoid yet another internet-induced panic. Personally I only use nylon drain plugs.
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Old 04-28-2021, 02:54 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Gail View Post
I had a bugger of a time removing the nylon plug in our WH , it literally came out in pieces . The PO apparently never drained the tank for 15 years , since it was stored in a heated shop
since new.
If the plug breaks off, here's a handy tool to help remove it.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Orbit-Riser-Extractor/3420774
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Old 05-02-2021, 03:11 PM   #32
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Ironically, the T&P valve is made of brass. But when my bag of nylon drain plugs arrives on Tuesday that Brass drain valve is coming out.
A couple of weeks ago I got into a discussion about whether the plugs were in fact nylon or plastic. I was under the impression they were nylon but it turns out not to be the case. Seems they are white plastic. Let us know what yours are made of.
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Old 05-02-2021, 03:47 PM   #33
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Old 05-02-2021, 03:55 PM   #34
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Mine broke off too. To get the inside portion out I used the tool you use on sprinkler risers when they break off.
The tool is available at any hardware store.
Worked great, but mine wasn’t glued in.
I didn’t use any glue or Teflon tape and mine sealed up nice
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Old 05-02-2021, 05:56 PM   #35
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Impact gun !
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Old 05-02-2021, 06:10 PM   #36
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Galvanic corrosion

The Anodic index lists the metals position of being a sacrificial metal. Gold is at the top at 0 and Beryllium is at the bottom at -1.85. Put steel in a aluminum tank and the aluminum becomes the the sacrificial anode. It is a interesting chart.

I was at a ramblin' pushers maintenance rally and a man was selling sacrificial anodes for Atwood water heaters. I questioned his theory and he lied in his response. Aluminum is at -0.75 on the list. Any metal above it will cause the aluminum tank to become the sacrificial and can cause a hole to form. Brass is at -0.40, eating away the aluminum. I have isolated my aluminum from any contact with lower rated metals, like your residential water heater is isolated from copper pipe.

Look up Anodic index on Galvanic corrosion on Wikipedia

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Old 05-02-2021, 06:14 PM   #37
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So my first bad is/was an incorrect assumption about HWH tank metals. Thank God for IRV2 or I would still be a dummy about that.
So in trying to assist an IRV2 peer I now recognize I have my own problem to get fixed. That is, to get that brass valve out of my aluminum HWH tank. Thanks IRV2!!!
According to the chart Brass is ok with Al
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Old 05-02-2021, 10:12 PM   #38
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Air powered ratchet wrench - I bought one at Harbor Freight for under $20 to get the heating element out of my water heater - One tap and out it came.
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Old 05-02-2021, 11:06 PM   #39
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If the hex is still there try using a six point socket and an impact driver
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Old 05-02-2021, 11:24 PM   #40
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Brass plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW View Post
So my first bad is/was an incorrect assumption about HWH tank metals. Thank God for IRV2 or I would still be a dummy about that.
So in trying to assist an IRV2 peer I now recognize I have my own problem to get fixed. That is, to get that brass valve out of my aluminum HWH tank. Thanks IRV2!!!
According to the chart brass is fine
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:41 AM   #41
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i replaced mine with brass 5 years ago and remove and drain every trip i just use Teflon tape and have had zero problems was wondering why you frown on the brass replacement plugs ?
I did the same with mine. I could not get the plastic plugs to stop leaking. For whatever reason I could not get the atwood plugs to start. There was not enough taper. I had another plug that had more taper but it would not stop leaking. I even tried to use a tap on it but it still would not work. I now use a brass plug with teflon tape and it seals and comes out fine when I drain tank. I know I should use plastic but I could not make it work.
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Old 05-03-2021, 09:42 AM   #42
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I didn't read all comments but have you tried a socket for square head that most of these plugs are made with. A 12point will only work on fairly loose ones.
I have rigged a setup for 1/2 or 3/4 head plugs with square end of socket and nut with matching nut and socket.
Actually the original plug has a 6-point/flat head, a 6-point socket works best.
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